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Low ISO sensitivity JPEGs

JPEGs look clean through ISO 400, but you can see some slight mangling of details starting at ISO 800.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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High ISO sensitivity JPEGs

By ISO 3200, sharp and properly illuminated areas show a little degradation, but shadows look mushy. By ISO 6400, you really don't want to use JPEGs at full size.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 100 JPEG

Sharp areas look a tiny bit soft -- which actually works in its favor -- in the expanded ISO 100 range.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 200 JPEG

Sharp areas can look a little crunchy at ISO 200, the camera's lowest native ISO sensitivity.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 400 JPEG

Sharp areas at ISO 400 look very good.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 800 JPEG

In-focus areas look fine in ISO 800 JPEGs, but you can see noise-suppression artifacts in the out-of-focus areas.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 1600 JPEG

The artifacts in out-of-focus areas are even more pronounced at ISO 1600.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 1600 raw vs. JPEG

You can get much better results in high ISO sensitivity images by processing raw files.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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ISO 3200 JPEG

I probably wouldn't use ISO 3200 JPEGs at full size.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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Color

Olympus defaults its cameras to the Natural color setting, which delivers pretty accurate results.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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White balance

I find the standard white balance produces very cool results indoors, and prefer the setting to preserve warm tones.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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50mm lens bokeh

The 50mm f1.8 delivers very nice out-of-focus highlights for the money.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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14-42mm lens bokeh

The kit lens delivers pretty typical results.

Updated:Caption:Photo:Lori Grunin/CNET
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