Kenmore 72583 review: Pro name, amateur performance

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MSRP: $2,899.99

The Good The Kenmore 72583 gas slide-in range has the looks of a commercial appliance. The oven has some cool cooking features designed to get food to you faster.

The Bad This nearly $2,900 range's performance was all over the place. For example, a roast chicken was slightly undercooked, but cinnamon rolls were charred to their baking sheet.

The Bottom Line If a slide-in gas range is what you're after, skip the Kenmore 72583. Instead, consider the KitchenAid KSGB900ESS, a slightly cheaper option with a better performance.

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6.0 Overall
  • Design 8
  • Features 7
  • Usability 5
  • Performance 5

Do you have a favorite celebrity chef? Do you have strong feelings about that ice cream machine on Chopped? Do you love the haughty but lovable way Mary Berry pronounces "layers" on the The Great British Baking Show? You might be a "prosumer," a marketing term you often hear appliance manufacturers use; the buzzword combines "professional" and "consumer" to describe avid home cooks who take their meals seriously and want professional-level appliances and tools to match their passion for cuisine. Popular brands are going after this group of potential customers by building ranges that have the appearance the professional-grade appliances you see on TV with a much lower cost than five-figure models.

Kenmore wants to scratch the itch of aspiring chefs with its Kenmore Pro line, a group of kitchen appliances "designed to show off one's inner gourmet." Unfortunately, the Kenmore 72583 range is a poor ambassador for the Pro collection. This 30-inch-wide, stainless-steel gas range's unsteady performance is more amateur than professional (looking at you, uneven baking and tricky oven controls). Kenmore has decked out this model with a couple of cool features, like the Accela-Heat cooking mode that eliminates the need for preheating, but the bells and whistles just aren't loud enough to drown out the issues I had with this range.

The $2,899 Kenmore 72583 isn't up for the intense cooking its intended audience of home cooks will put it through. You're better off with a model like the KitchenAid KSGB900ESS if you want a slide-in gas range. And Kenmore has made good gas ranges; if you don't mind a freestanding model, consider the $1,400 Kenmore 74343 gas range.

This Kenmore sits pretty in the kitchen

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

The Kenmore 72583 has all the physical features we've come to expect on ranges inspired by their commercial counterparts. The 30-inch-wide slide-in model is covered in stainless steel and topped with continuous cast-iron grates that makes it easier to scoot pots and pans from one burner to another. There are five burners on the cooktop, including a center oval burner for cooking with a griddle or oblong pot. Unlike the electric Kenmore 97723 range that completely eliminated oven and burner knobs, the Kenmore 72583 relies on them for both oven settings and oven temperature. There is a small touchscreen panel on the front of the range, but its functionality is pretty limited. The Kenmore 72583's capacity is small on paper: only 5.1 cubic feet, which is a lot smaller than similar units such as the KitchenAid KSGB900ES (6.5 cubic fee) or Samsung NX58H9500WS (5.8 cubic feet). I never had any problem fitting my large baking sheets into the range, so don't let this oven's size turn you away -- there are more troubling features that make the 72583 less appealing.