SMEG C30GGRU review: A mediocre oven hiding behind refined Italian design

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MSRP: $3,199.00

The Good The $3,200 SMEG C30GGRU gas range's cherry-red finish and compact design would be a showpiece in any kitchen. The cooktop is also a stunner when it comes to boiling water.

The Bad The oven churned out a wide range of terrible food, from undercooked biscuits to dry roasted chicken. The knob controls were tricky to use, and the simple design left out important features like a preheat indicator.

The Bottom Line This SMEG range will earn you a lot of cool points because of its appearance, Italian origins and air of exclusivity. But pass on this unit if you really want to use your oven.

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5.4 Overall
  • Design 9
  • Features 6
  • Usability 5
  • Performance 4

Not to disrespect to the other products I've tested, but I'd never called an oven "cute" until I unboxed the SMEG C30GGRU. This compact, fire-engine red range made me smile, especially since I work in a test kitchen full of hefty stainless-steel appliances. The bright color, plus the sleek Italian design and the $3,200 price (about £2,247 or AU$4,517, converted directly), gave me high hopes about the cooking I would do with this high-end gas range.

But when I began testing this SMEG oven, I realized that using this range was like opening a bag of Cheetos and discovering that it's only half full: the outside held lots of promise, but the interior was a big disappointment. The oven managed to both under-bake and over-cook in my bake tests and often took a long time to do so. And finicky control knobs made using the decent stovetop difficult.

Now, the SMEG's cooking wasn't all bad; the stovetop did a good job at boiling water and holding a steady temperature when I cooked tomato soup on low heat. Unfortunately, it just wasn't enough to redeem this range. The SMEG shows the downside of holding premium appliance brands on a pedestal; sometimes, you pay a lot of money for looks and prestige, and not actual cooking capability.

A pretty exterior...

There's more to life than just physical beauty. It's just hard to remember that when you first lay eyes on a SMEG product. The Italian company, whose name is an acronym for Smalterie Metallurgiche Emiliane Guastalla (Guastalla Emilia Enamel Works), puts a heavy emphasis on the aesthetics of its large and small appliances, which have steadily become available worldwide since the company began in 1948. You might even be familiar with the brand's 1950s-style refrigerators that have been featured (with some backlash) on the BBC's Great British Bake Off.

The SMEG C30GGRU upholds the brand's dedication to design. This gas, freestanding range is made of stainless steel with its front and sides covered in a cherry-red coating.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

And it's not just the color that's striking: the SMEG is petite. The oven has only has about 3.5 cubic foot capacity, which makes it the smallest single oven cavity we've ever tested (the Dacor ER30DSCH, another high-end range, narrowly beats the SMEG with its 3.9 cubic foot oven). And the SMEG range is only 31 inches (78.75cm) tall; the appliance comes with four adjustable beige feet that add about 4 to 6 inches to the unit (about 10-15 cm).

Another notable feature of the SMEG's appearance is its seemingly simple use of only knobs to control the oven's functions. But these finicky knobs were my first peek into the "looks can be deceiving" theme I would experience throughout my tests. It was hard to adjust the burners to the desired heat levels: the flames either roared or barely whispered without a lot of in-between.

The oven knob was also problematic in that common American baking temperatures were not marked on the dial, so you had to make a good-faith effort to gauge temperature if you wanted to cook something at, say, 425 degrees F. And speaking of oven temperature, there is no light or alarm that goes off when your oven has reached its set temperature. SMEG says it omitted this feature to minimize electrical components and keep costs down and it's not unusual for gas ovens to be slim on additions like this (the Dacor RNRP36GS gas range, for example, also relied heavily on knobs, but there was an LED light to tell you when it was time to bake). Call me kooky, but I'll pay a little more for something helpful like a preheat light.

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