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Samsung RF23M8090SG Counter-Depth 4-Door French Door Refrigerator review: One of the best French door fridges we've tested

As for capacity, you get a total of 22.6 cubic feet of storage space, including 12.9 cubic feet in the fridge and another 3.1 cubic feet in the FlexZone drawer. That's about what you'd expect from a counter-depth model like this one that's designed to sit flush alongside your countertops. For more space, go with a standard-depth model.

The final feature worth discussing is that FlexZone drawer. Pull it open, and you'll find touch controls for the fridge, along with four distinct temperature presets for the drawer that range from 29 to 42 degrees Fahrenheit. It's a nice place to store delicate foods like meat and cheese that you want to keep a little colder than the rest of the fridge, and it also makes a good spot to stick wine and other beverages that you might want a little warmer than your groceries.

It also tested well in our climate-controlled test chamber, where we put every fridge we review through its paces. But hey, I'm getting ahead of myself, here...

This is about as close to a perfect heat map as we've ever seen.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Performance

Ah, there we go. So yes, the FlexZone drawer did well as I dialed it up and down in my tests. Each setting held tight and steady within a degree or two of the target temperature, and it typically only took a few hours to dial down to a lower setting. Best of all, changing between those different settings had no detectable impact on the performance of the fridge.

In this 24-hour test, I dialed the FlexZone drawer (red) from 42 degrees to 29 degrees. It made the switch in under three hours without affecting the rest of the fridge.

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That overall performance was strong, too. With the exception of the FlexZone drawer, which I intentionally dialed up to 42 degrees while testing the refrigerator's coldest setting, I didn't find a single hot-spot above 40 degrees in the entire fridge at any setting I tested. Most importantly, the main body shelves all averaged within a single degree of each of my target temperatures, and the same can be said of the crisper bins and a majority of the door shelves, which is outstanding. The bottom of each door ran slightly warm, but warmer temperatures in the doors are completely normal for refrigerators at any price.

The freezer also yielded strong results, with identical average temperatures in its main body and the pull-out drawer that sits above it. Those temperatures were essentially a bullseye when I tested the fridge at its default setting of 37 degrees -- at the coldest setting of 34 degrees, the two average temperatures in the freezer were again identical, but they had each risen about a degree and a half in spite of the fact that I'd left the freezer setting unchanged at zero. That's really about as much of a quibble as I can muster.

Put simply, Samsung's fridge couldn't have done much better in my tests. If you're basing your buying decision on performance, you'll have a tough time finding much better than this.

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Tyler Lizenby/CNET

The verdict

Salsa jokes aside, I really like the RF23M8090SG. I wouldn't want to spend $4,200 on it, but I wouldn't have to -- most retailers already have it listed for at least $500 less, and if you catch it on sale like you can right now, you can get it for as much as 40 percent off. 

Performance was pretty close to perfect, and the combination of an attractive design and useful features give it the feel of a legitimate luxury. Considering that most of us use our refrigerators multiple times per day, the RF23M8090SG feels like the sort of splurge that's probably worth it.

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