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Samsung Gas Range with True Convection NX58F5700 review: Samsung's gas range can roast one heckuva chicken

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The Good The $1,699 Samsung Gas Range with True Convection looks good, cooks well and comes with features that you wouldn't expect from a midprice model.

The Bad It didn't nail every performance test and it won't win any awards for speed.

The Bottom Line The Samsung Gas Range with True Convection is a solid choice with more accessories and options than many comparably priced appliances.

7.4 Overall
  • Design 8
  • Features 8
  • Usability 7
  • Performance 7

The $1,699 Samsung Gas Range with True Convection, model number NX58F5700, is available in the US only. While this isn't an inexpensive appliance -- you can snag a basic gas range for less than 600 bucks -- it has the style and features of an even pricier model. (I mean, it comes with a cast iron wok insert.)

So, what does that mean to you if you aren't a stir-fry fanatic?

This range also has a large-capacity oven as well as defrost, dehydrate and bread proof modes. It certainly isn't the fastest cooker around, but it can easily make everything from a juicy roasted chicken to evenly-broiled burgers and beyond. I recommend the NX58F5700 if you're in the market for something that looks and acts nearly-premium, but costs significantly less.

An oven overture

Where some mid-price ranges seem to focus minimal effort on design, Samsung thankfully took a different approach.

Its instrument panel features a silvery touchscreen with a digital LED display that blends in nicely with its stainless steel surroundings. It also has an intuitive layout that shows cooking modes and other related features on the left and underneath the LED display, along with a full number pad on the right. That makes all of the oven controls extremely easy to navigate, although selecting something can be a little frustrating; the panel doesn't always respond after the first attempt.

I particularly like that the five burner knobs are large enough to give off a quasi-professional chef look. This also makes them easy to access and adjust up or down to various high, medium and low settings.

The rest of the range is relatively uneventful -- it's yet another stainless-steel-wrapped appliance, but the features behind it make up for that to some extent.

Electrolux EI30GF35JS Samsung NX58F5700 LG LRG3085ST GE PGB920SEFSS Whirlpool WEG730H0DS KitchenAid KGRS306BSS
Price $1,549 $1,699 $1,650 $1,700 $1,749 $1,649
Oven size (in cu. ft.) 5 5.8 5.4 5.6 5.8 5.8
Convection Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Cooktop output, in BTUs 5,000 to 18,000 5,000 to 18,000 5,000 to 17,000 5,000 to 19,000 5,000 to 17,000 5,000 to 17,000

There's nothing particularly surprising about its 5 burners or its BTU range. The 5,000-BTU burner works well for simmering sauces, while the 18,000-BTU burner is suited for boiling a large stockpot of water. You can also remove the three cast iron grates to clean the cooktop underneath.Aside from the typical traditional and convection cooking modes that you'll find at this price level, the Samsung NX58F5700 also offers things like defrost, dehydrate and bread proof. It also comes with a wok insert that fits nicely over the cast iron grates and a griddle for cooking up a mean Saturday breakfast feast.

The NX58F5700's 5.8 cubic-foot oven capacity is especially impressive; the $1,549 Electrolux 30-inch Gas Freestanding Range with IQ-Touch Controls EI30GF35JS has only 5 cubic feet of space. This Samsung range also has 7 rack heights so you can easily switch from baking to broiling and back again.

What's cooking?

samsung-traditional-convection.jpg
Megan Wollerton/CNET

The key differences between traditional and convection mode typically make an appearance during multirack cooking. To see if this gas range followed suit, I baked a bunch of biscuits using both the fan-free traditional and air-circulating convection modes.

Unlike Electrolux's counterintuitive results , Samsung's NX58F5700 returned traditional top-rack biscuits that were much darker (and bordering on overcooked) than the bottom row. One glance at the photo above shows this disparity (the traditional biscuits are on top, with the top rack on the left and the bottom rack on the right).

As expected, the convection biscuits cooked more evenly, although you can still distinguish between the top and bottom racks. So, while it did a fine job, the convection mode only slightly improved top and bottom rack biscuit uniformity.

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