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Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso Maker review: A cheap espresso machine chock-full of quirks

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The Good The Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso Maker is an affordable way to create espresso-based drinks sweetened by steamed milk.

The Bad Unstable brew temperatures and a weak pump make for inconsistent espresso quality. Without variable steam control, frothing milk is tricky and using the machine's clumsy water tank is a pain.

The Bottom Line As a frugal way to make espresso-based cafe drinks at home, the Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso Maker gets the job done, but not exceptionally well and not without headaches.

5.4 Overall
  • Performance 5.5
  • Design 5
  • Features 6
  • Maintenance 5

With fancy machines costing $1,000 or more, making espresso at home can be an expensive hobby to pick up. Before you get in too deep, consider the $90 Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso. For a modest investment it will accommodate your occasional latte or cappuccino coffee cravings.

Hard-core espresso addicts who prefer to their concentrated java straight won't find a friend in this Mr. Coffee. Like the $100 De'Longhi EC155, the machine is easily clogged by very fine grounds and suffers from inconsistent brewing temperatures plus a weak vibration pump. This translates into unpredictable espresso quality and bars the gadget from pulling delicious flavors from lightly roasted beans. A few annoying design issues and controls make it less fun to operate than the more compact De'Longhi as well.

Design

Standing at a full 12.6 inches tall and spanning 11 inches wide by 12 inches deep, the Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso is close in size to compact drip brewers like the Bonavita BV1900TS. That said, this appliance noticeably looms over comparably smaller espresso machines such as the De'Longhi EC155.

A large part of the Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso Maker's bigger footprint is its huge water tank. Hugging the machine's entire back section, the reservoir is removable and boasts a hefty 52 ounces (1.54 L) of liquid (confirmed by scientific scale) when filled to its maximum fill line. This is a heck of a lot more than the De'Longhi's 34-ounce (1 L) capacity and significantly greater even than what Mr. Coffee lists on the product's website (40 ounces, 1.2 ounces).

The Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso Maker isn't compact. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

While I appreciate that the tank comes away from the machine, removing the reservoir can be tricky. The source of the problem is the tank's cantankerous lid, which flips backward to open correctly. Flipping it forward often causes the lid to drop off of the tank completely, and replacing it is a much harder task than it should be.

I also caution against lifting the coffee maker by gripping it mostly from the back. Doing this is a recipe for disaster since the weight of the machine can detach it from the water tank abruptly. When this happened to me, I had to scramble to hang on to both the main unit and the separated tank lest one or both clatter to the floor, and even so I still managed to spill a lot of water everywhere.

The controls are straightforward enough. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

As with the De'Longhi EC155, the Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso has a minimum of controls, and they're straightforward to operate. On the front of the device, above the brew head, are two buttons (Brew and Steam) that activate corresponding modes for brewing espresso and steaming milk. Flanking the buttons are a pair of status lights, a power indicator on the left and ready indicator to the right.

You'll find a flat "Control Knob" sitting on the machine's right side that has just three positions, coffee brewing, off and steam. Unfortunately the knob's steam function is either all on or shut off entirely. I prefer the dedicated steam dial on the De'Longi EC155, which spins multiple times around from its closed position and provides a wide range of variable steam control.

The control knob tells the machine to brew, steam or turn off. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Performance

Unfortunately the Mr. Coffee Pump Espresso won't win any awards for sheer brewing ability. The appliance's documentation and marketing material play up its "thermoblock" hardware, saying it "heats water quickly and evenly." That doesn't promise a consistent brewing temperature, critical to making both quality espresso and drip coffee.

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