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LG LSE4617ST review: LG's induction stove is just too expensive

LG included Wi-Fi with the LSE4617ST, so you can control your oven from a greater distance (like outside your home) than was available with just NFC. Within LG's app, you can see if one of the burners is in use, set the oven temperature, and set a cook timer that will automatically turn the oven off when it expires. 

There are a few catches to the Wi-Fi capability. Once you connect your oven to your home's Wi-Fi network, you have to manually select the "remote start" option on the oven and open and close the oven to confirm that you want to control the oven remotely. That means that you can't randomly decide at 5:30 p.m. on your way home that you'd like to preheat your oven; you have to know before you leave the house that you'll want to turn the oven on from your device so you can enable remote start. And you can't enable every oven setting from the app. Issues aside, the addition of Wi-Fi to the LSE4617ST is a step in the right direction for LG.

LG oven clocks in good performance

The LSE4617ST does well at basic cooking tasks, especially when you compare it to other induction ovens. Let's start with the boil test, in which we measure how long it takes to bring 112 ounces of water to a rolling boil. Each of the burners on the LG cooktop are equipped with a boost mode that you use when you want to boil water or heat a large amount of food. I used this mode during the tests. Though the LG did have the second-fastest boil time compared to other induction cooktops we've tested, the boost didn't make a drastic difference.

Large-burner boil test (induction models)

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes

The LSE4617ST also had a second-place showing in terms of how long it took to broil six hamburger patties. For this test, I used the normal broil setting, though the oven is equipped with a speed broil. Even without the special setting, the broiler cooked the burgers quickly. However, faster doesn't always mean better: During testing, many of the patties were nearly burnt on the outside.

Hamburger broiling test (induction models)

LG LSE4617ST
14.35

Note:

Time to achieve 145 degrees Fahrenheit, in minutes

The best part of the LG's performance were chickens I cooked on the convection roast and speed roast settings. Both birds were fantastic -- golden brown, crisp skin, moist meat and cooked throughout. The speed roast setting is designed to cook a small chicken without needing to preheat the oven. It cut about 10 minutes off the total cook time of a five-and-a-half-pound chicken.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

When it came to even baking, the LSE4617ST was just OK. Even with the convection fan in use, biscuits I baked on the right side of the oven were consistently lighter than the others on the baking sheets.

I baked the biscuits on the left at the same time. The biscuits in the top-left picture baked above the biscuits in the bottom-left picture. The illustrations on the right show a representation of the biscuits' brownness level.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Final thoughts

Overall, I liked this oven. Its cooking performance was solid, its Wi-Fi capabilities were a sharp improvement over other LG ovens I've tested, and its roasting capability was on point. But its cost is prohibitive. I'd shop around a bit and wait for a sale before you throw down $3,700 for the LSE4617ST.

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