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LG LSE4617ST review: LG's induction stove is just too expensive

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The Good The $3,700 LG LSE4617ST boils water and broils burgers quickly. The appliance connects to Wi-Fi so you can control it when you're away. It does an outstanding job of roasting chicken.

The Bad It's an expensive oven. Some of the extra cooking features don't drastically improve the overall performance of the oven. And you're limited in how much you can control via Wi-Fi.

The Bottom Line This is a great oven with a high price. Wait for a sale, or consider a less expensive induction range.

8.0 Overall
  • Design 8
  • Features 8
  • Usability 8
  • Performance 8

LG did well by the LSE4617ST, a $3,700 slide-in stove with an induction cooktop and an electric oven. The appliance is full of bonus features that are designed to speed up cooking, whether you need to boil, broil or roast. It can even connect to Wi-Fi so you can control your oven when you're away.

But these extras don't drastically change the overall performance of the oven -- it just drives the price up. And not everything lives up to its potential. For example, the oven comes close to burning burgers, and the Wi-Fi app is limited in what you can do from your phone.

The LSE4617ST is one of the best LG ovens I've reviewed in a while. Unfortunately, its price is too high. Wait for this range to go on sale, or consider a freestanding and less-expensive induction oven like the $1,700 Kenmore 95073 or the $2,000 GE PHB920SJSS.

LG loads up on extra features

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Like other LG ovens, the LSE4617ST is a hefty-looking appliance. This stove is a standard width (30 inches) and is a slide-in model, which means it's designed to fit flush with your bottom cabinets, and all the controls are located on the front of the appliance. LG outfitted the LSE4617ST with stainless steel and sturdy knobs that add to its stately appearance.

The LSE4617ST's smooth cooktop has four induction burners and one warming zone (learn more about induction here). The burners have an LED bar below them to show the power levels of each burner when they're in use. Like other induction cooktops we've tested, each burner is marked with a cross as opposed to a traditional circle, so it's important to keep the product's manual close by to make sure you're using the right size cookware for each burner. And speaking of cookware, you'll need pots and pans that are made of a magnetic base material. Newer cookware will have an "induction ready" or "induction capable" label. If you're not sure if your cookware will work with induction burners, take a magnet and see if it sticks to the bottom of your pot or pan. It's ready for induction if the magnet sticks; if not, you'll need new cookware.

There are four burners on the cooktop, and a warming zone in the back-right corner.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

The LSE4617ST's oven is a roomy 6.3 cubic feet with a convection fan built into the back wall to help evenly distribute warm air throughout the oven cavity. The oven has the following settings: convection bake, convection roast, speed roast, warm, proof, self clean, easy clean, broil, speed broil and bake. LG includes two traditional oven racks and a gliding rack that works a lot like a drawer to make removing items from the oven easier. There's also a temperature probe you can use on the convection roast setting to track the internal temperature of what you're cooking. Below the oven, the LSE4617ST has a warming drawer to keep food hot until you're ready to eat.

Wi-Fi adds limited usefulness to LG oven

LG has included wireless connectivity with other ovens I've tested, such as the LG LDG4315ST and the LG LDE4415ST, so you could control some of the ovens' function from an app. On those ovens, LG used NFC (near-field communication), which meant you had to hold your smartphone or tablet right next to the oven for the two to connect. This was frustrating because you still had to be right next to your oven to operate it from your device.

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