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Electrolux EW30IS80RS review: Electrolux loads this induction range with a turkey 'faux-tisserie'

Electrolux went all in when it included the Perfect Turkey cooking mode on the EW30IS80RS. If you grew up like me, turkey only came at Thanksgiving, mainly because it was a day-long cooking endeavor for the poor soul in charge of it. Electrolux claims in its user manual that the Perfect Turkey system "gently browns the turkey's exterior and seals in the juice" in a shorter amount of time than normal ovens. For example, a 16-pound turkey will take an average of three hours and 12 minutes to cook in the Electrolux, while the USDA estimates that it takes 3 hours and 45 minutes to 4 hours and 15 minutes for the same-size turkey in a traditional oven. I was skeptical when I placed a defrosted, 13-pound turkey into the oven and pressed the Perfect Turkey button. But the oven completely cooked the turkey in just 2 hours.

No caption necessary.

Chris Monroe/CNET

Here's how the Perfect Turkey made a two-hour cook time possible: First, you put the raw turkey on the grill rack and griddle pan that Electrolux includes with the oven, which elevates the turkey so hot air hits it from all sides. You insert the included temperature probe into the turkey and connect it to the oven. The oven heats to the default 325 degrees Fahrenheit, and the heating elements in the top and bottom of the oven begin to alternate on and off. Meanwhile, the two convection fans in the oven's back wall circulate air throughout the space. These conditions create a rotisserie-like environment (a faux-tisserie, if you will) that cooks the turkey faster than traditional bake or roast settings. The oven stops cooking when the turkey reaches the desired internal temperature.

Not only did the Perfect Turkey setting speed up cooking, it also produced a turkey that was worth of being a holiday meal centerpiece. The skin was crisp and golden-brown. The dark meat was succulent. The only downside was the dry white meat. However, this is a problem that you can fix by adjusting the internal temperature to which you want to cook the turkey (I used the default 180 degrees Fahrenheit; the minimum temperature is 170 degrees Fahrenheit). The Perfect Turkey setting is worthy of your use on Thanksgiving, but it might also inspire you to cook turkey year-round because of how easy it is to prepare.

Other performance highlights

Fortunately, this Electrolux doesn't rely solely on its impressive turkey cooking. Overall, the range performed well in our standard cook tests.

Like other induction cooktops we've seen, the Electrolux can boil large pots of water quickly and efficiently. It boiled 112 ounces of water in an average of 5.68 minutes, which makes the Electrolux the second-faster boiler we've tested. The range is in good company -- the other three fastest boilers are also induction ranges.

Large Burner Boil Test (Induction and Electric Models)

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes
Ashlee Clark Thompson/CNET

When it comes to keeping a steady temperature over low heat, the behavior of the Electrolux is similar to an electric smooth-top range. The chart to the right shows how the temperature of soup that's on low heat steadily decreases on the Electrolux over 20 minutes. This isn't a deal-breaker; it just shows that you'll need to increase the temperature of a burner if you plan on letting food simmer for an extended period of time.

Down in the oven, the Electrolux's convection fans work well at circulating air evenly when food was on more than one oven rack. Depending on how brown you like your baked goods, you could say that the fans are a bit too efficient in multirack baking. The biscuits I tested were even in terms of brownness, but they were all nearly burnt, so you should reduce your recipes' cook times to be on the safe side.

The oven's broiler is also a bit much. Compared with the performance of other electric ovens, the Electrolux broils burgers in an average amount of time. But the burgers' exteriors were always too charged by the time the inside reached the appropriate temperature.

Hamburger Broiling Test (Electric Models)

LG LDE4415ST
13.03
Electrolux EW30IS80RS
15.33

Note:

Time to achieve 145 degrees F, in minutes

Final thoughts

The Electrolux EW30IS80RS could have easily been a one-trick pony after nailing its impressive Perfect Turkey feature. Yet, this induction range performs well all-around, from fast boiling to even baking. At $3,749, buying this range will lighten up your wallet quite a bit. But with its thoughtful special features and command of basic cooking make this range a good addition to your kitchen.

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