Electrolux EW30IS80RS review: Electrolux loads this induction range with a turkey 'faux-tisserie'

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MSRP: $3,749.00

The Good The $3,749 Electrolux EW30IS80RS slide-in induction range has a speedy cooktop and a convection oven full of helpful cooking modes. It's "Perfect Turkey" mode can cook a 13-pound bird in two hours, a feat that will be a game-changer at Thanksgiving.

The Bad The oven is a heavy-handed when it comes to broiling and convection baking, which left me with burnt burgers and extra-brown biscuits. The large touchpad control panel can be unresponsive to your touch.

The Bottom Line The Electrolux EW30IS80RS's fast cook times and useful add-ons make this range a worthwhile investment.

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8.0 Overall
  • Design 6
  • Features 9
  • Usability 8
  • Performance 8

Can one really cool feature make a nearly $4,000 oven worth buying? In the case of the Electrolux EW30IS80RS, it depends on how important Thanksgiving is to you. Electrolux filled this induction range with a host of special features, but the standout is the "Perfect Turkey" cooking mode that can cook a holiday-meal worthy, 13-pound turkey in just two hours.

The Electrolux EW30IS80RS is a 30-inch-wide slide-in induction range.

Chris Monroe/CNET

Slashing the cook time of an intimidating piece of poultry is just one of the many noteworthy features included in the $3,749 Electrolux EW30IS80RS. The range's induction cooktop boils water at breakneck speeds. And the oven's two convection fans excel at moving air more evenly during baking, which results in biscuits that brown evenly across two racks.

The range has its drawbacks. The broiler chars hamburger patties before they're completely cooked. Though the oven circulates heat well, it left my evenly browned biscuits about one minute away from being burnt. And controlling this range's intricate touchpad controls can feel a bit like steering a stubborn spaceship.

Overall, the Electrolux EW30IS80RS is a formidable match to similar slide-in induction ranges such as GE PHS920SFSS and the Samsung NE58H9970WS. Though the Electrolux is more expensive, this impressive range is a good investment if you value quick cooking -- especially on Thanksgiving.

First impressions leave much to be desired

The Electrolux EW30IS80RS is a 30-inch-wide, slide-in range with an imposing profile. Much of its heft comes from the touch-control panel, which juts out from the body of the range.

The smooth cooktop includes four induction burners. Induction cooktops use heat created from electromagnetism between your pot or pan and the burner to cook food (read more about the science behind induction here). Like the Kenmore 95073 induction range, the Electrolux doesn't use circles to show you where the burners are located. Instead, there are four crosses that show you where you're supposed to put your cookware. Each burner has its own set of touchpad controls that let you adjust heat levels with plus and minus buttons. Unfortunately, the controls don't clearly indicate which burner they belong to, which will make your initial cooktop experience confusing if you don't read the oven's manual first.

The control panel has 11 different cooking modes.

Chris Monroe/CNET

The gigantic control pad also holds a labyrinth of oven controls, including 11 different cook settings. It can get overwhelming trying to access special features such as temperature probe settings or the convection converter (which lowers the temperature when you're using a convection cooking mode), which require multiple button pushes and adjustment. And you have to press hard on the control pad's buttons to get them to respond.

The Electrolux has two oven cavities: a traditional 4.6-cubic-foot capacity oven and a 1.4-cubic-foot capacity oven drawer at the bottom of the range. You can use the oven drawer to keep food warm, bake or slow cook, which is handy if you're cooking a lot of dishes at once or if you want to heat up a frozen meal. But I'd rather get rid of the oven drawer in exchange for a larger main cavity, especially since it's difficult to get food in and out of the drawer since it's so low to the ground.

It's time to talk turkey

It takes a lot of gumption for a manufacturer to include a special cook setting on an oven that's designed for one specific dish, such as pizza or chicken. You expect such a feature to be flawless since it only has one job.