Why You Can Trust CNET New 'Microwave' Tech Claims to Quick-Cook Chicken That Doesn't Taste Like Rubber
The Sevvy oven is trying to reinvigorate microwave cooking, from four-minute cake to moist chicken and more. I'm not totally sold.
The Sevvy uses a slightly modified version of microwave technology to make food similar to sous vide in a fraction of the time.
Sevvy is a "new" type of oven that uses a novel method to cook everything from brownies to chicken breast in mere minutes, and without the notorious rubber effect of overcooked meat or baked goods you can bounce off the floor. I spoke with Sevvy founder Kamiel de Leur at CES 2024 in Las Vegas, and he described the Sevvy's cooking method as "slow-cooking done fast."
Like, really fast.
The brains behind the Sevvy were showing off the oven's cooking and baking prowess on the showroom floor. Before I could introduce myself, someone manning the Sevvy booth handed me a moist square of blueberry cake that had been baked in the oven. Though the team wasn't doing live cooking demos, I was promised the bake was finished in under four minutes. Compare that to a traditional convection bake, which could take closer to 30.
For some real talk, decent-tasting microwavable cake isn't new, and so we're more interested in seeing how the Sevvy handles speed-cooking chicken, beef, fish or vegetables, when the brand chooses to show off those skills.
One drawback of the oven we saw was the small cooking capacity. However, it's not clear if this version will go to market or if we'll see something else that utilizes Sevvy's proprietary cooking technology.
So how does it work? Sevvy's patented technology for cooking at low temps uses integral electric heating with heat waves ricocheting back and forth inside the chamber. If that sounds familiar, it's because microwaves operate similarly. But the Sevvy waves penetrate food in a highly controlled and even manner -- something microwaves famously struggle with -- thanks to AI-powered cooking programs. The food inside retains flavor and nutrients at a higher rate than it would with most cooking methods.
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Sevvy's integral heating is achieved with the use of electricity. The company says the ingredients inside are heated precisely and evenly, resulting in "perfect" cooking. The food heats up faster, and it doesn't get any hotter than necessary, which prevents it from drying out.
And at least in the cakes I tasted, there's no rubber effect like you get with dishes cooked in a microwave. (Sidenote: We don't suggest cooking much of anything in a traditional microwave. In fact, nuking food isn't even the best way to reheat leftovers -- try this instead).
One obvious drawback is the cooking capacity. The Sevvy oven is fitted with two relatively small cooking chambers where food is loaded, presumably a meat in one and a vegetable or starch in the other. Or, if you're like me, desserts in both chambers.
The technology used by Sevvy leans on elements of existing tech, but it's ultimately a novel way of cooking. There's no timetable for when this oven will become available, but the brand hopes to license to strategic partners, including larger kitchen appliance manufacturers.
Follow more of CNET's coverage of CES 2024 here.