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LG LRG4115ST review: LG cooks up more of the same with this gas range

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The Good The simple LG LRG4115ST 30-inch gas range boils water quickly and roasts a beautiful chicken. The stainless-steel range also has user-friendly features such as quirky chimes and responsive buttons.

The Bad The oven nearly burnt biscuits during my double-rack convection baking tests, and the time it took to broil hamburger patties was downright sluggish.

The Bottom Line The $1,600 LG LRG4115ST is similar to the other ranges in the manufacturer's ProBake line -- the range doesn't live up to LG's hype or price tag.

6.9 Overall
  • Design 8
  • Features 6
  • Usability 9
  • Performance 6

Ovens with bells and whistles have become the norm as manufacturers attempt to reach consumers for whom cooking is more hobby than necessity. Often, these bonus features can disappoint and bog down an otherwise fine oven, so it's nice to have a little simplicity with the LG LRG4115ST, a 30-inch range that's a pared down addition to the brand's ProBake line of ovens.

The LRG4115ST doesn't have a double-oven capacity like LG's LDG4315ST or the speedy cooking modes of the LDE4415ST. Instead, LG equipped this single-oven cavity model with simple settings that won't intimidate home cooks weary of a range that has too many wonky upgrades.

The LG covers some of the basics well. Like other LG ranges I've tested, the oven's convection roast mode produces nearly perfect chicken. And the cooktop can boil water at an impressive speed, especially when you compare this LG to other gas ranges. Other essential cooking tasks, however, proved more formidable for the LRG4115ST. Biscuits bordered on burnt during my baking tests, and the broiler took its sweet time cooking hamburger patties (an average of 20 minutes, to be exact).

The LG LRG4115ST still has some work to do in perfecting its performance, especially when you consider the $1,600 price. Instead, go for a cheaper gas range with a more stable performance, such as the Kenmore 74343 or KitchenAid KGRS306BSS.

LG's simple design is easy on the eyes

LG ranges have a slightly bulky visual profile that I've grown fond of in reviewing this company's products. Like its sister ranges, the LRG4115ST is a 30-inch wide model wrapped in stainless steel. The touchpad control panel on the back of the range contains clear, large type that indicate the buttons for the oven's cooking modes: convection and traditional bake, convection roast, broil, pizza, warm/proof, self clean and Easy Clean. Controls for the clock, cooking timer, warming drawer and oven temperature are also located on the back panel, along with the NFC (near-field communication) tag that works with LG's Smart Oven app (I discussed the abysmal app in more detail in my review of the LG LDG4315ST double-oven range).

The control panel of the LG LRG4115ST is streamlined and easy to read.

Chris Monroe/CNET

Large cast-iron grates cover the entire cooktop, which includes four traditional round burners in each corner and an oblong burner in the center of the cooktop designed for use with an included griddle or other oblong cooking vessel. The middle burner can be useful if you often cook with a griddle, but including pots on the cooktop while the griddle is in place makes the surface feel pretty tight. The chunky knobs for the burners are located on a rounded stainless-steel panel that is slightly tilted upward, an intuitive feature that gives you a better view of which burner you are turning on or off.

The LG LRG4115ST has hefty handles that make it easy to control the burners.

Chris Monroe/CNET

The oven on this LG model boasts a cavernous 6.3-cubic-foot capacity, the most room I've seen in a single-oven gas range in the test kitchen. LG's signature ProBake convection fan is located on the back wall of the oven. This component, which other manufacturers have called pure, true or European convection, is made up of a heating element that surrounds a convection fan that warms the air as it circulates throughout the oven cavity for faster and more even baking. The window to the oven is also wide enough to give you a good view of your food as it cooks. A warming drawer located below the oven cavity rounds out the unit.

Tasty chicken + very brown biscuits = uneven performance

The LG LRG4115ST is an oven of extremes. When the range cooked something well, the cook times and taste were often outstanding. But when the range stumbled, it gave some of the slowest cook times and overcooked results I've seen.

Let's take a look at the roast chicken for an example of superb results.

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