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GE Profile Built-In Double Convection Wall Oven PT9550SFSS review: Special features make this GE double oven shine

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We cooked the same stuff in the $4,999 Dacor Renaissance 30-inch Double Wall Oven RO230S, the $2,499 Samsung Slide-In Electric Range with Flex Duo Oven NE58F9710WS, and the $1,399 LG Smart ThinQ 6.3 Cu. Ft. Capacity Electric Single Oven Range with Infrared Grill LRE3027ST, too. We'll have more "apples-to-apples" data as we expand our appliance review catalog, but for now you can at least compare the GE with the ultra high-end Dacor unit and the two freestanding LG and Samsung electric range ovens.

Baking biscuits
We baked two racks of canned, refrigerated biscuits per run on traditional bake mode and then on convection multirack bake mode in the upper oven alone and then in both the upper and lower oven at the same time. These tests not only compare the traditional and convection bake modes, they also tell us how the oven handles two racks of food and simultaneous cooking in the upper and lower ovens. We preheated the oven to 450 degrees for traditional bake and 425 for convection multirack bake, put a dozen biscuits in each each rack, and baked them for 9 minutes.

The Dacor biscuits clearly won the traditional bake test.

As you can tell by the side-by-side comparisons, the Dacor biscuits were the most evenly cooked in traditional bake mode. Then things steadily worsened. The Samsung biscuits weren't uniform, but they weren't over or underdone. The LG biscuits from the top rack were nearly burnt and the biscuits from the bottom rack could have used a couple more minutes in the oven. The color difference between the upper and lower rack in the GE oven was pretty extreme -- the top rack was very dark and the bottom rack was very light. The GE oven definitely yielded the least consistent batch of the four. The same was true when we cooked biscuits in the upper and lower ovens at the same time using traditional bake mode. Not good.

The GE double oven maintained the lowest overall temperature during our biscuit test. It also had the most significant temperature drop -- from 404 degrees to 235 degrees when the oven door was opened to add the biscuits for cooking. I suspect that inconsistency contributed to the end result between the upper and lower racks of biscuits. The location of the heating element and the oven rack heights the GE manual suggests for multirack baking might also have a hand in the uneven cooking as well.

Convection heat is generally the option of choice when it comes to baking because it tends to cook more evenly (convection heat technology circulates the air around the oven rather than staying in one spot). GE's convection multirack biscuits were much more even than its traditional bake biscuits -- and the same was true for the other ovens as well. Once again, Dacor took the lead with perfectly even biscuits, followed by Samsung, GE, and LG.

The temperature readings may look a little chaotic on the convection bake mode charts, but the temperature swings are much less dramatic than they were in traditional bake mode. Just compare the GE single oven traditional bake mode to the GE single oven convection bake mode. The convection technology is working hard to stay within a target temperature range. Definitely stick to convection mode when you're baking in the GE oven, especially if you're baking more than one rack simultaneously.

The Dacor oven's convection biscuits were the most uniform by far.

Roasting a whole chicken
This delicious test gave us the chance to evaluate the convection roast function of the GE double oven. We butterflied a whole 10-pound chicken, preheated the oven to 350 degrees, and roasted it for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the temperature probes in the right and left side of the chicken each reached an internal temperature of 165 degrees. We ran single oven tests using just the upper oven and also cooked a chicken in the upper and lower oven at the same time. And the GE chicken consistently took the longest to reach temperature in all of our convection roast tests (take a look at the slideshow for more details).

The Dacor chicken was the best by far, but the GE chicken was also very good.

As far as taste, the Dacor chicken was consistently the best "homemade" oven-roasted chicken I've ever tasted. It turned out absolutely delicious. Every. Single. Time. The GE and Samsung chickens were both very good, but not quite as tasty as the Dacor chicken. The LG chicken was all right, but not memorable -- the skin wasn't nearly as crispy and the meat wasn't nearly as juicy as any of the others.

If I hadn't ever had the Dacor chicken, I would have said that the GE and Samsung chickens were great. The Dacor oven just took this test to a level I didn't even know existed. For the price range, I can't fault the GE or Samsung ovens, but the Dacor chicken completely changed the game. It's nice to know that if you're going to spend that much on an oven, you get what you pay for.

Broiling ham
This test involved broiling bone-in ham steaks on high until they reached an internal temperature of 148 degrees. Both the Dacor and GE ovens have a traditional and convection broil mode, while the LG and Samsung ovens only offer traditional broil modes. So, we broiled ham steaks in all four models on high using traditional mode. Then we tested the Dacor and GE's ability to broil on high on convection mode separately using just the upper oven for a single oven test and both the upper and lower ovens for a double oven test.

The LG ham was overcooked, but the rest tasted very good.

The LG oven used the open-door broil method and all of the others used the closed-door broil method. The Samsung ham always finished first and the Dacor ham always finished last, with the GE and LG hams finishing somewhere in the middle. The Dacor, GE, and Samsung hams were all similarly good, with no distinguishable differences in taste and appearance. The LG ham, on the other hand, was significantly overcooked. That was unexpected given that a lot of heat escaped through the LG oven's partially open door.

But why did the Dacor oven take so much longer than the others overall? We followed the rack height suggestions in each user guide for the ham tests. The Dacor manual suggests placing the rack farther away from the heating element than the GE manual does, which seems to account for the temperature disparity between the two. The cook time differences didn't seem to hurt either oven's results in this case, though.

These convection hams were equally delicious.

Roasting pork tenderloin
Since this double oven comes with a thermometer probe and a dedicated probe setting, we decided to use this mode to cook a couple of pork tenderloins -- one in the upper oven and one in the lower oven. We used the keypad to select the target internal temperature of 160 degrees and inserted the probe into the pork. The oven automatically turned off when the GE probe gave a temperature reading of 160 degrees.

The GE probe and our temperature probes were very close in the upper oven test. They always landed within 10 degrees or less of one another. The lower oven test, on the other hand, didn't go quite as well. You can see a pretty significant temperature difference at the 12-minute mark on the lower oven chart. The GE probe read 81 degrees, while our temperature probes averaged 115.8 degrees. That's nearly a 35-degree difference. Overall, the GE probe does pretty well. Just make sure to double check your readings and consider using a backup thermometer to make sure you've reached a safe temperature, particularly in the lower oven.

The verdict
The GE Profile Built-In Double Convection Wall Oven PT9550SFSS is a solid oven. It consistently performed well during our testing and produced very tasty results. Not only that, but this double oven offers special features, like remote preheating via the GE Brillion app, and an LED status bar that make it more unique than your regular high-end double oven. It may have classic, understated looks, but it's definitely a modern oven with advanced options and functionality. I recommend it to anyone who enjoys cooking and wants an oven that can keep up with them.

Find out more about how we test ovens.

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