T-Fal OptiGrill review: T-Fal's indoor grill cooks almost all by itself

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The Good The T-Fal OptiGrill takes much of the guesswork out of cooking by automatically adjusting grill time and sensing its internal temperature. It gives meat and poultry convincing grilled flavor plus functions as a competent panini sandwich press in a pinch.

The Bad It tends to overcook what it grills and can't handle raw eggs or batter for pancake and waffles.

The Bottom Line Inexperienced home cooks will definitely find the T-Fal OptiGrill's automatic operation a comfort but if you're confident in the kitchen you'll want an appliance with more control and abilities.

6.8 Overall
  • Design 7
  • Features 6
  • Usability 7
  • Performance 7

The siren song of grilled food is tough to resist. Everything from seared steaks and pork chops, to blackened poultry and fish, ingredients hit with high heat have a smoky deliciousness all their own. Unfortunately it usually takes cooking over an open flame outdoors to impart this lovely flavor to meats and produce. T-Fal's $180 (£148, AU$239) OptiGrill, however, is designed to do exactly that right from your kitchen countertop.

This ability by itself isn't a new development. Similar products from DeLonghi, Breville, and of course George Foreman have tackled these tasks for years. The OptiGrill sets itself apart by sensing the thickness of your food then automatically cooking it to the level of doneness you'd like. Save for the disappointing tendency to overcook its items, the OptiGrill succeeds at its mission.

Almost $200 is steep for a jumped up sandwich press, considering they can cost a little as $40. Still the price range for the category went even higher recently with a $500 model from Cinder (US only) that, surprise, surprise, has so-called "smart cooking" features, including precise, sous vide-like temperature controls. As tempting as that model might sound to fancy electric grill shoppers, know that you're not missing much if you stick with the non-connected Optigrill.

Design and operation

If you've seen or owned an electric panini press then the look and feel of the T-Fal OptiGrill will come as no surprise. Like those other products the appliance is relatively compact and employs a clam-shaped design. Forming the upper and lower half of the OptiGrill's clam mouth are two ridged grilling surfaces connected by a sturdy arm. The heavy arm swivels up and down to open and close the contraption plus functions as a control panel when shut.

The controls sit on the OptiGrill's handle.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Running along this panel are numerous buttons including one for main power in addition to six keys that engage cooking presets based on food type. All labeled with line-drawn symbols instead of printed text, you'll find icons for whipping up hamburgers, poultry, hot sandwiches, sausages, red meat and fish. If any of these items happen to be frozen, tap the button with the snowflake logo first then punch in your desired food category.

T-Fal recommends that you apply a coating of oil or grease to both grill grates to avoid material sticking before you turn the appliance on. Thankfully the grates are not only removable but you can toss them onto the dishwasher without fear as well.

The grill plates have deep ridges but are removable.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

While all of the OptiGrill's keys are backlit, the strangest indicator on the panel is a big circular LED. It gives the OptiGrill its name and will in theory glow in shifting colors to match the doneness level of what you're cooking. Want that steak rare? Stop cooking when the LED is yellow.

For red meat cooked to medium temperature, halt the process when you see orange. The red hue screams that your steak is well done, you get the idea. To grill up veggies and other foods outside of the OptiGrill's presets, there's a manual mode too. Just toggle the key to one of four temperature settings.

A large LED glows in shifting colors to indicate the degree of doneness.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Since the OptiGrill can't function as a griddle, don't expect the appliance to serve up eggs, pancakes and waffles for you in the AM. Wet ingredients like this will either be mangled by the grill's deeply ridged plates or slide down their angled surfaces into the drip tray before cooking.

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