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Samsung NE59J7630SB review: Flaws aside, this Samsung offers good performance for less than $1K

Fast performance, but at what cost?

On the surface, the Samsung NE59J7630SB's performance is stellar: fast water boiling, competitive broil times, golden biscuits, and one good-looking roast chicken. But the numbers don't tell the whole story of my time with this range.

I cooked three batches of refrigerated biscuits using the Samsung NE59J7630SB's convection baking mode. The oven doesn't have an auto-convert feature, so you have to either bake food at a lower temperature or for a shorter amount of time to account for the faster cooking when you use a convection mode. I reduced the cooking time by 10 percent, so each batch of 24 biscuits (12 on one rack, 12 on another) baked for 8 minutes and 6 seconds. With just a couple of exceptions, the biscuits slid right off the baking sheet. They were noticeably more chewy and dense than biscuits I've baked in other ovens. Each cookie sheet of biscuits were fairly even, but the biscuits that baked on the bottom rack were a lot paler than their companions above them.

samsungbiscuits2.jpg
The top and bottom racks of biscuits from one of my test runs showed very different results. Ashlee Clark Thompson/CNET

I used the broiler in the oven to cook hamburger patties, a technique that cooks food at high temperatures similar to that of a grill. The use and care manual for the Samsung NE59J7630SB advises that you keep the oven door partially open when you broil, so be prepared for columns of smoke to erupt from the oven cavity.

Hamburger Broiling Test (Electric Models)

Note:

Time to achieve 145 degrees F, in minutes

It took an average of 15.08 minutes to bring six patties to 145 degrees, a time that puts the Samsung NE59J7630SB more than three minutes ahead of the comparably priced Frigidaire FGEF3030PF . But the burgers that were located near the back of the broiler were well done by the time the patties in the front reached 145 degrees. All of the burgers had a nice crisp char on the exterior that was just a hair short of being burnt.

In sticking with the oven, I used the convection roast mode to cook my favorite chicken that I seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil. After an hour and 20 minutes, the chicken breasts had started to dry out, but the dark meat was juicy and the skin was brown and crisp.

samsungchicken.jpg
The chicken was a little dry in some parts, but still very edible. Ashlee Clark Thompson/CNET

The Samsung NE59J7630SB's cooktop almost erased the faults of the model's oven. The large burner with the Fast Boil feature lived up to its name -- I boiled 112 ounces of water in a 5-quart pot in just 9.33 minutes, the fast time we've seen on an electric oven (only induction ranges had faster boiling times).

Large-Burner Boil Test (Electric Models)

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes

I also liked how well the Samsung NE59J7630SB's small burner was able to maintain a steady temperature on a can of tomato soup. After I brought the soup to 165 degrees, I reduced the temperature to low and tracked the temperature for the next 20 minutes. The chart below shows how steady the temperature remained on the Samsung NE59J7630SB in comparison to the gas cooktop of the Dacor RNRP26GS and the Kenmore 95073 , which has an induction cooktop.

The Samsung held the temperature of a can of tomato soup very steady over a 20-minute time period. Ashlee Clark Thompson/CNET

Final thoughts

Too often, consumers have to sacrifice functionality to find a range for less than $1,000, such as giving up a convection fan in the LG LRE3021ST , GE JB650SFSS and the Frigidaire Gallery 30-Inch Electric Range . The Samsung NE59J7630SB has convection, helpful cooking modes and quick-cooking capabilities and still clocks in at less than $1,000. The oven isn't perfect, but its strengths are enough to make this a worthwhile purchase for the cook who wants to spend less than four figures for their appliance.

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