Samsung NE59J7850WS review: The most flexible Flex Duo yet

broil-11.jpg
Tyler Lizenby/CNET

I also broiled a few batches of burgers in this oven. Broiling applies near-direct heat to food, so it's a common cooking mode for hamburgers, sausage and other things that you'd typically make on a grill. In order to track the broiling speed, I used one temperature probe per burger and monitored the time it took for all six to reach 145 degrees (that's roughly medium-rare/medium).

Hamburger broiling test

Samsung NE59J7850WS
12.32
LG LRE3021ST
14.75
Samsung NE58H9970WS
14.9
Maytag MET8720DS
15.58
GE ABS45DFBS
15.67
GE JB650SFSS
16.25

Note:

Time to achieve 145 degrees F, in minutes

Compared with the other electric ranges we've reviewed, the Flex Duo was the fastest at 12 minutes and 19 seconds; it didn't hurt that the burgers tasted very good, too. On the other end of the spectrum, GE's $800 JB650SFSS took the longest at 16 minutes and 15 seconds.

In addition to these standard oven tests, I also cooked a bunch of other stuff to highlight the Flex Duo feature.

Tyler Lizenby/CNET

I began with simultaneously cooking bacon in the top oven and cookies in the bottom oven. While a bacon-infused cookie would probably taste delicious, this test illustrated that there was no "flavor leeching" between ovens. In other words, you can feel comfortable cooking salmon in one oven and brownies in the other without worrying that your baked goods will taste like fish.

tater-tots-1.jpg
Tyler Lizenby/CNET

I also made some frozen tater tots in the lower oven. The cooking instructions said to cook them for 22 to 29 minutes, so I started on the low end at 22 minutes. While they tasted fine after 22 minutes, they needed another 5 minutes or so to get that classic tater tot crispiness on the outer layer.

samsung-flex-duo-oven-chicken-glam-shots-1.jpg
Tyler Lizenby/CNET

For the final oven test, I convection roasted a whole chicken at 425 degrees. The chicken weighed about 5.5 pounds and it took little over an hour to reach an internal temperature of 165 degrees. That's pretty quick. And even though I only sprinkled it with salt and pepper, it tasted very good -- juicy and tender.

Large burner boil test

Samsung NE58H9970WS
7.40
Electrolux EI30EF35JS
9.62
Maytag MET8720DS
9.7
KitchenAid KERS303BSS0
10.48
Whirlpool WFE720H0AS0
10.98
LG LRE3027ST
12.17
Samsung NE59J7850WS
13.1
Samsung NE58F9710WS
14.53

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes

Unlike the impressive hamburger broil results, the Flex Duo did not do particularly well at boiling a 5-quart pot of water. It took just over 13 minutes to reach a rolling boil, whereas Samsung's own $3,699 induction model took less than 8 minutes. The Flex Duo did do better than the pricier Flex Duo , though, which took more than 14 minutes to boil.

Small burner boil test

Samsung NE58H9970WS
5.72
Whirlpool WFE720H0AS0
10.22
KitchenAid KERS303BSS0
10.67
Samsung NE59J7850WS
10.67
Samsung NE58F9710WS
11.88
Electrolux EI30EF35JS
13.37
Maytag MET8720DS
13.52
LG LRE3027ST
15.10

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes

The smaller, 3-quart-pot test took 10 minutes and 40 seconds to reach a rolling boil. Once again, Samsung's induction model took the lead at under 6 minutes to boil. The $1,400 LG LRE3027ST took the longest out of the group at over 15 minutes.

All told

Samsung's $1,899 Dual Door Flex Duo may not be the fastest water-boiler or the best single-rack convection biscuit maker, but its speedy and delicious hamburger broil and chicken roast results as well as its general ability to convert into whatever kind of oven you need, gives this range a ton of appeal. That's especially true when you consider that a lot of similarly priced ranges with comparable design, usability and performance only have one oven; you really can't beat that value. Don't overlook this adaptable appliance if you're in the market for a midprice electric range that can multitask on your behalf.