LG LDG4315ST review: Uneven baking, lousy app decrease this oven's appeal

Uneven performance with a few highlights

LG made a big deal when it announced its line of ProBake ovens in August , so I had high hopes for the oven's performance during my bake tests. Unfortunately, the 72 biscuits I baked left me deflated. For each test round, I baked two sheets of biscuits (12 biscuits per sheet) on convection mode in the bottom oven. Round after round, the biscuits were uneven in color. Many of them had dark edges, but some biscuits in the front row of the bottom rack were much paler than the others on the same sheet.

The biscuits browned unevenly when I baked two sheets of them in convection mode. I baked biscuits in the top photo on the top rack and the biscuits in the bottom picture on the bottom rack. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

I also tested the oven's performance without the convection fan enabled, and I was much happier with the results. I baked three rounds of larger biscuits (eight biscuits per round). The row closest to the oven door was often paler than the row of biscuits in the back row, but the difference wasn't as drastic as I had seen in the convection bake tests. Plus, there were no burnt edges on the larger biscuits.

The large biscuits I baked in traditional mode didn't show as many inconsistencies as the biscuits I cooked in convection mode. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

The convection and traditional tests showed me that you'd have to spend more time learning just how to adjust your recipe's cooking times with the ProBake mode enabled, but you still might not have results that are as desirable as those from the traditional baking mode.

I switched to the top oven for broil testing. The broiler took an average of 17.97 minutes to bring six hamburger patties to 145 degrees F. This time puts the LDG4315ST near the bottom of the pack in comparison to other gas ovens we've tested. But the relative lack of smoke made using this broiler a better experience than I've previously had with models such as Dacor ER30DSCH .

Hamburger broiler testing

Note:

Time to achieve 145 degrees F, in minutes

Both ovens have a "pizza" setting, which will automatically set the temperature of the oven based on the type of pizza you plan to bake (frozen with a regular crust, frozen with a rising crust or freshly made). I cooked two frozen pizzas with rising crust (one in each oven) at the same time on the same settings. Though I baked each pizza for 18 minutes, the results were drastically different. The pizza from the upper oven was underdone on the edge closest to the front of the oven, while the pizza in the bottom cavity was completely overcooked.

I cooked the pizza in the top picture in the upper oven and the pizza in the bottom picture in the lower oven. Though I cooked them on the same pizza setting for the same amount of time, the lower-oven pizza was overcooked. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

The LG LDG4315ST began to restore my faith in its performance with the chicken I roasted in the bottom oven. I used the convection roast feature, and I had an evenly browned chicken after about an hour and 20 minutes. The dish had a great combination of crisp skin and moist meat that I always look for in this test.

The LDG4315ST does a good job when it comes to roasting chicken. Tyler Lizenby/CNET

Stovetop cooking was a mixed experience on the LG LDG431ST. The UltraHeat extra large burner lived up to its name. It boiled 112 ounces of water in 10.65 minutes. The only gas cooktop with a faster boiling time was the Kenmore 74343 , which boiled the same amount of water in 9.75 minutes.

Large-burner boil test (gas models)

Note:

Time to achieve rolling boil, in minutes

I also cooked tomato soup on the cooktop to see how well a burner set on low could hold a steady temperature. The LG LDG4315ST brought the soup down to temperatures that were much lower than those of other gas ranges, which stayed pretty hot over the 20 minutes I let the tomato soup simmer on low.

The LDG4315ST dropped to a much lower temperature than other gas cooktops. Ashlee Clark Thompson/CNET

Final thoughts

I really wanted to like the LG LDG431ST. Its design is user friendly, its stovetop is top-notch, and its app shows that LG is willing to invest in the future of smart cooking technology. But many of the features LG showcases on this oven are huge disappointments.

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