X

Inside 'devil's mountain,' a reclaimed Cold War spy station

Teufelsburg, one of Berlin's more offbeat tourist attractions, gets new lease of life as a street art destination and a cultural hub.

Katie Collins
Katie a UK-based news reporter and features writer. Officially, she is CNET's European correspondent, covering tech policy and Big Tech in the EU and UK. Unofficially, she serves as CNET's Taylor Swift correspondent. You can also find her writing about tech for good, ethics and human rights, the climate crisis, robots, travel and digital culture. She was once described a "living synth" by London's Evening Standard for having a microchip injected into her hand.
Andrew Lanxon Editor At Large, Lead Photographer, Europe
Andrew is CNET's go-to guy for product coverage and lead photographer for Europe. When not testing the latest phones, he can normally be found with his camera in hand, behind his drums or eating his stash of home-cooked food. Sometimes all at once.
Expertise Smartphones, Photography, iOS, Android, gaming, outdoor pursuits Credentials
  • Shortlisted for British Photography Awards 2022, Commended in Landscape Photographer of the Year 2022
Katie Collins
Andrew Lanxon
teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside
1 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Teufelsberg Field Station on the fringes of Berlin was used by the British and Americans during the Cold War to spy on the Soviet Union. It's now a tourist attraction covered in street art.

Warning: Some of the street art in these pictures contains language readers may find offensive.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-45
2 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The station was abandoned by the NSA in the early nineties, and it took all its equipment and information with it.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-22
3 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Classified reports are due to be released about what happened at the station in 2022.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-6
4 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

All we know at the moment is that around 1,500 spies worked here 24 hours a day over three shifts.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-10
5 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Now Teufelsberg has been reclaimed by graffiti and street artists.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-40
6 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The current landlord wants Teufelsberg to be a "natural cultural space."

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-12
7 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

A regeneration project announced earlier this year will see electricity, running water, heating and windows put in.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-42
8 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

It will build on the artist's visits that already take place.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-29
9 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Painting on the inside of Teufelsberg's highest dome.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-15
10 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

A piece of exercise equipment inside the station.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-25
11 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Visitors must sign a disclaimer when they visit Teufelsberg as the site is rife with hazards.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-9
12 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

This tower was the first to be built and was analogue (the rest are digital).

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-17
13 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Art by Victoriano from Brazil.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-27
14 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Nearly all of the site is accessible to visitors.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-43
15 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Sculpture is also present alongside street art.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-24
16 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The Teflon used to make the domes is delicate and has been damaged by vandalism.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-31
17 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Teufelsberg is surrounded by the Grunewald Forest. In the distance is Lake Wannsee.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-30
18 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Berlin's Olympic stadium is visible from the uppermost window of the tallest tower.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-23
19 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Visitors pay 8 euros to gain entrance to Teufelsberg.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-41
20 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

There is a small bar and gardens for people to chill out in.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-11
21 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Many of the artworks contain a political message.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-19
22 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Each artist contributes to the project in their own unique way.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-20
23 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The domes were designed to let information in, but not out, as well as to disguise the equipment underneath.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-39
24 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Teufelsberg, which means "devil's mountain," is actually the name of the man-made hill on which the Field Station sits. However, it's surrounded by forest, making it hard to spot from a distance. 

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-50
25 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Bee hives.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-32
26 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Views stretch far and wide across the surrounding countryside.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-4
27 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The NSA left behind very minimal equipment.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-21
28 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Visitors must pay an extra 7 euros to take photos on the site.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-49
29 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Getting there involves a 30-minute walk from one of the nearby S-bahn stations.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-2
30 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Outside is a makeshift bar, with relaxation areas and a ping pong table.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-28
31 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Each triangle used to construct the domes is a different size. Fitting them together is a complex mathematical problem.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-34
32 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Most of the high-up vantage points now have railings installed.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-16
33 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Artwork by Nick Flatt.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-35
34 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

The current landlord wants the station to be a place of relaxation.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-46
35 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

There are four domes in total at Teufelsberg.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-36
36 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Nyika Mukada is an artist and tour guide working at the listening station.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-26
37 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Sometimes jam sessions are held in the uppermost dome.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-44
38 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Wherever you go, you will stumble upon surprising artworks.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-47
39 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

Parts of the site are very overgrown.

teufelsberg-listening-station-berlin-inside-33
40 of 40 Andrew Hoyle/CNET

It's worth going to Teufelsberg for the incredible views of Berlin.

More Galleries

My Favorite Shots From the Galaxy S24 Ultra's Camera
A houseplant

My Favorite Shots From the Galaxy S24 Ultra's Camera

20 Photos
Honor's Magic V2 Foldable Is Lighter Than Samsung's Galaxy S24 Ultra
magic-v2-2024-foldable-1383

Honor's Magic V2 Foldable Is Lighter Than Samsung's Galaxy S24 Ultra

10 Photos
The Samsung Galaxy S24 and S24 Plus Looks Sweet in Aluminum
Samsung Galaxy S24

The Samsung Galaxy S24 and S24 Plus Looks Sweet in Aluminum

23 Photos
Samsung's Galaxy S24 Ultra Now Has a Titanium Design
The Galaxy S24 Ultra in multiple colors

Samsung's Galaxy S24 Ultra Now Has a Titanium Design

23 Photos
I Took 600+ Photos With the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max. Look at My Favorites
img-0368.jpg

I Took 600+ Photos With the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max. Look at My Favorites

34 Photos
17 Hidden iOS 17 Features You Should Definitely Know About
Invitation for the Apple September iPhone 15 event

17 Hidden iOS 17 Features You Should Definitely Know About

18 Photos
AI or Not AI: Can You Spot the Real Photos?
img-1599-2.jpg

AI or Not AI: Can You Spot the Real Photos?

17 Photos