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Appliances

Slow-cook in the toaster oven with the Breville Smart Convection Oven Plus

The Breville Smart Convection Oven Plus expands on its already deep feature set. The new model now has a slow-cooker feature.

The Breville Smart Convection Oven Plus offers plenty of options for meal-making.
The Breville Smart Convection Oven Plus offers plenty of options for meal-making. Williams-Sonoma

There is an appliance on your kitchen countertop that wants nothing more than to cook you food. Not only cook you food, but cook it how you want it. This longstanding champion of versatility is the toaster oven. Now, not only does it want to cook your food, it wants to slow-cook it as well.

From toast to a slow-cooked roast, the Breville Smart Convection Oven Plus ($249.95) offers countertop versatility all in one package. An update of a previous model ( check out our review to see all that it can do) the new slow-cooker feature offers a fun way to extend the kitchen countertop without having to actually extend the kitchen countertop to make room. Time, though, is another subject.

Putting the "slow" in "slow cooker" means taking your time. The space on the countertop usually reserved for 90-second toast-making now can be put to use for up to 10 hours. Like the slow-cooker settings you are used to, the appliance offers the choice between high and low cooking modes for cooking times between 2 and 10 hours. A sensor monitors the cooking progress and adjusts power as necessary.

While the word "toaster" may be disappearing from the product title, there most definitely is a toast setting -- as well as bagel, bake, roast, broil, pizza, cookies, reheat, warm and the slow-cook feature. It will take a covered baking dish to get the full flavor of the features, but with so many cooking modes, the included baking, broiling and pizza trays will keep you full for a while.