Meredith Koop says styling Michelle Obama relied on a 'symphony' of designers, ideas
The former first lady has said that optics is everything in politics. No one knows that better than Koop, the stylist who helped turn Obama into a fashion icon.
For many years, a lot of people have had a lot to say about Meredith Koop's work. That's because she's been Michelle Obama's style adviser for over a decade. Her job is making sure the former first lady of the United States presents herself authentically in a world where social media makes note of what you're wearing and gives everyone a way to offer up their opinions on your choices.
"Fashion for a woman predominates how people view you," Obama says in Becoming, her 2020 Netflix documentary. "That's not fair, that's not right, but it's true. That's when fashion isn't just fashion, it's how you turn it into your tool rather than being a victim of it."
How do you even get a job as the personal stylist for one of the most notable and visible women in the world? Koop's answer was surprising. She actually studied psychology in school and aspired to be a dancer, with no formal training in fashion. The journey for Koop started with her simply trying to find a job -- which she did at Ikram, a high-end fashion boutique in Chicago. There, she says, she fell in love with the artistry, the creativity and, of course, the beauty of the clothes. She also worked alongside Ikram Goldman, who served as a wardrobe adviser for Michelle Obama while her husband campaigned for the presidency. Koop joined Obama's team in Washington, DC, after the 2009 election and became her stylist in 2010.
"In the past, first ladies typically didn't have stylists -- some just had relationships with fashion designers they admired and built their wardrobe around those collaborations," Koop said in an interview for CNET's I'm So Obsessed podcast series. Instead, Koop and Obama relied on many different designers to create her unique style, part of their embrace of young, forward-thinking diverse designers.
Those choices are now part of fashion history.
"Obama's style choices did more than just showcase her fashion sense," writes L'Officiel. "Obama used her style and influence to make a positive statement, giving a platform to up-and-coming American designers, many of whom are people of color, women, and from immigrant backgrounds. By picking emerging designers with activism stitched into the seams of their brand, Obama defined a generation of style not just in what she wore, but who she wore, creating some of fashion's biggest names and trailblazers in the years that followed."
Koop says that it wasn't until later that she realized just how "unique" that approach was. "I'm bringing forward like a lot of different designers, a lot of different ideas, not just one thing that sort of hits one note -- it's like a symphony of different designers and different looks and different ideas," Koop says.
It was also about "playing off the messaging of not only Michelle Obama, but the Obama administration as a whole -- like it should be a seamless interaction between what that administration ... is trying to achieve and what someone could potentially wear," Koop adds. "That was always the magic that I was trying to put into the wardrobe and to the choices. Of course, things never work out perfectly, but that was always the intention."
I talked with Koop about making those style choices, including selecting the plum-colored coat and pants that Obama wore for President Joe Biden's inauguration in January. The outfit was created by notable Black designer Sergio Hudson. Vogue called the look "regal." We also talked about the people whose style Koop admires -- including the artists Missy Elliott and Rhianna -- and about her obsession with green tea.
You can listen to my conversation with Koop on Spotify or Apple Podcasts. You can also subscribe to I'm So Obsessed on your favorite podcast app. In each episode, Patrick Holland or I catch up with an artist, actor or creator to learn about their work, career and current obsessions.