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Question

XPS420 GOD

May 14, 2015 4:24AM PDT

Hey guys quick question. I have a XPS420 after cleaning it it won't fire up. I have a solid amber light on the power switch and the same on the MOB there is a rapidly flashing green light on the PSU. I have done the paper clip test on the PSU pin connector and got nothing no fan spining nothing. So my question is this. What power supply do I have to buy? I know this much I need a ATX with 24 or 20+4 pin connector open back panel with or without on off switch 5 SATA power connectors. I'm running a Nvidia GTX480 so I'm pretty sure I need a bigger PSU. Do I need new wires along with it? I have some general knowledge about computers so it's not to far out of my grasp to take this on myself just need some guidance on what to buy.

Thanks in advance

Chuck

Discussion is locked

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Clarification Request
Is this that 2007 model?
May 14, 2015 4:36AM PDT

If so, tell me about the voltage reading on the CMOS BATTERY. It's that old.

As to the 480, you didn't reveal the PSU rating so your guess is your guess. I can't check it out.
Bob

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I believe so
May 14, 2015 5:16AM PDT

One of the other suggestions I read also related back to the CMOS battery. the PSU rating is 450w which I don't think is enough because that video card is a beast!! Ive had this button just turning amber before but that time I jazzed around with the button on the back of the PSU and the power button and I got it to work.problem

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450 may be OK by a hair.
May 14, 2015 5:27AM PDT

It would have to be new, single rail or I'd consider it gone. Futzing with the button may have it working but stressing a PSU can result is a blown machine.
Bob

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ok
May 14, 2015 5:46AM PDT

Do you think that changing the battery is a good idea?

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Did you measure it and is it from 2007?
May 14, 2015 5:56AM PDT

That don't last forever and some PCs do nothing when it gets too low. For me I just make it part of my PC checkup routine. Get the cover off, canned air to the usual locations and a voltage check. For the common CR2032 anything below 3.0 and it's getting a new battery.
Bob

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Cool
May 14, 2015 6:30AM PDT

That's what I'm going to right now. Wouldn't it be funny all this worrying over a battery? God I hope it's only that. I was going to replace the PSU anyway I play world of tanks all the time and the are coming out with a really hi Def version. My graphics card hades it now but runs like you wouldn't belive I just want to support it as much as possible. So when I get the new PSU can I buy to much wattage?

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In keeping the 50% rule.
May 14, 2015 6:40AM PDT
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sweet
May 14, 2015 6:59AM PDT

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my post. I will replace the battery and give an update. Can you think of a better way for me to taste the PSU?

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When tasting a PSU
May 14, 2015 7:02AM PDT

I'd unplug it and wipe it with something to kill off the bateria first. Then another wipe. Given that many old models were not lead free I'd skip any taste tests.
Bob

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Hahaha.
May 14, 2015 7:08AM PDT

You want gravy with that?
Dafydd.

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Sorry
May 14, 2015 8:03AM PDT

I meant test! Ah stupid spell check on my phone. Anyways I got the battery and same thing. Is there anything I could do to further test the PSU?

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DO NOT TEST IF...
May 14, 2015 8:11AM PDT

If this supply is more than a few years old I never test them. Also, testing is expensive. Here's what Toms used:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html

Now you see one reason shops don't test supplies.

However at our office we can do this. We have oscilloscopes and can check out if a PSU is noisy. But then again if we see a 410 Watt possible load on a 450 Watt PSU we would never test that.
Bob

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buy a new PSU
May 14, 2015 8:29AM PDT
"I have done the paper clip test on the PSU pin connector and got nothing no fan spining nothing. So my question is this. What power supply do I have to buy?"

That's it right there. If unsure, make sure by plugging a fan direct to one of the power plugs, may need an adapter if 3 pin plug on fan. Check with a cheap multimeter, but that won't tell if it will take a good draw aka the watts it can put out, just if it's voltage is off, or it's totally dead. Yellow is 12v, red is 5v, both blacks are grounds. If you have some 12v car bulbs and can put in a socket or solder some wires onto each contact, then can test for a low watt draw, as in if it lights up. An old headlight bulb that works still will give a good test of watts, about 35-55w each bulb.

What to buy? Get an 80% efficient which also rates at continuous power and NOT just MAX watts.

If you want to go cheaply but quality for lower power unit, then this is good. I linked to Conclusion page, but there's 10 before it you can read. The site does honest reviews.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-VP450-Power-Supply-Review/1487/11
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=54280&CatId=1078

I've not had any problems with these on older and lower power computers. Avoid any Logisys PSU like the plague, I saw enough of them fail to never trust them again, cheap junk inside them too.

If you want something more powerful, check out others at that hardware secrets site and buy accordingly.