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General discussion

Windows 10: Reinstall, reset, refresh... I'm confused!

Feb 22, 2019 4:39PM PST

Hi, I've been having some issues with my PC and I have decided to do a reinstall (?) of Windows 10 but I'm confused with all the different terms used for this, i.e. reinstall, reset, refresh, clean install, update, upgrade, fresh start, factory reset & reformat. Can someone please tell me in simple terms what the difference is between these terms and which ones allow me to keep my data and/or apps? Thank you!

--Submitted by Mark D.

Discussion is locked

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Bayr Says:
Feb 22, 2019 10:36PM PST

Three things:
#1: Have your Win 10 serial number.
#2: See #1
#3: Awe, you know!

You prob. will have to call them anyway,
start there, and ask for an explanation of the different types.

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Re: Windows 10 serial number
Feb 23, 2019 12:28AM PST

The one thing you don't need with a reset or whatever what you do is called: a Windows 10 serial number. The license key is linked to your hardware and safely stored in Microsofts database.

Post was last edited on February 23, 2019 12:29 AM PST

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More info would be helpful but not absolutely necessary.
Feb 23, 2019 12:48AM PST

So you're having problems w/ the operation of your computer and reinstalling windows (one way or the other) is your plan to fix things. You say that you want to keep your programs & settings but let me point out that doing so with a windows re-installation increases the chances that you won't actually fix things completely. Or, it may help for a while and then things slowly turns south again.

There truly is only one way to make your system run at its full capacity and speed and that is to completely wipe the system clean and reinstall a FRESH copy of win10. This means that all your personal info is lost so you must take steps to backup all your documents, media files and critical data from 3rd party programs first.

All this comes from the assumption that you upgraded to win10 from another windows install. If that is how you got your current installation of win10, then that's how I'd proceed. I've done this many times on others computers. A few years back, Microsoft upgraded millions of PC's to win10 for free. For some, that was good enough but over time, problems can crop up and I think that is what's happening to you.

It is never the best way to install a new version of windows by overwriting the existing version in its place. To get that free version of win10, that's how everyone got it though so there is the conundrum. After the upgrade is complete and you finally boot up your new windows 10 upgrade and everything appears to be OK... It's best to wipe the system clean at that point and let windows format and install a fresh copy on that hard drive. You are less likely to run into little problems here and there down the road that only get worse w/ time. I believe that's the problem you're experiencing. A buggy upgrade that's a few years old and getting worse.

You are better off committing the time and effort to a fresh install now and then reinstalling your favorite programs. Also, once your computer was up & running w/ that win10 upgrade, Microsoft retains the unique identification of your computer so that if you ever want to reinstall windows (like you do now), you don't need to know the serial number for that machine. Microsoft certifies the new installation of windows when you're done.

Because you've mentioned that you're unsure what all the differences are concerning the different types of re-installs, seek out a friend or family member who knows their stuff to help out. Good Luck.

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About always wipe
Mar 2, 2019 3:32PM PST

The problem with that is that if you're a techno-geek it can literally take 100+ hours to reinstall all the various programs and get all the settings pretty much the way you're used to them.  Plus, for other programs there can be the activation issues I described in my other response.

Given the low price of disks nowadays, the "Upgrade and Don't" approach I described is generally best.  If it gets totally trashed, then do a fresh install while continuing to use the disk you didn't change.

I assume from the OP wording that it's his personal home or laptop PC, not a company PC.  I'm currently in the process of upgrading over a dozen PC's at work from Win 7 to Win 10.  It would take several hours more per PC to have to reinstall everything, re-set-up Outlook, re-activate the various VPN's to multiple customers' systems, etc.  Plus, everyone would want their PC set up the way they had it previously (picture of their kids as background, etc.)  (And, of course ..., I'm not "the I.T. guy"--my boss refuses to hire one.)

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Re: refresh etc
Feb 23, 2019 12:43AM PST

This is what Microsoft thinks of your question: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415
But not everybody uses the same terms, alas.

I would call it a factory reset if you use the procedure described by the maker of the device in the user manual, by booting from the recovery partition and recovery disk and telling it to make it like it was when you bought it.

I would call it a reinstall or clean install if there is no factory reset option and I use a generic Windows 10 disc on a new hard disk (or an existing one and tell it to delete every old thing of Windows and programs). I'd have to install all drivers myself.

Fresh start is an informal description for all of the above. Reformat is wrong: after (re)formatting there's nothing on the disk.

Update is what Windows does each month, mostly fixing bugs in an existing working Windows.
Upgrading is going to a new version. For Windows that's each half year. For Android and iOS on your phone it's each year or so.

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(NT) Thanks for the link, Kees. It's a keeper.
Mar 1, 2019 7:01PM PST
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Windows 10 terms
Feb 23, 2019 1:30AM PST

"Reinstall" means installing your W10 operating system again.
"Reset" means reinstalling W10.
"Refresh" uses an in-built Microsoft tool to load a default version of W10 from the existing W10 installation. The new W10 will be that which came with the computer, so it will have none of the updates that might have occurred since, and it will not keep your apps. If you want them you must back them up and reinstall them after "Refresh" is completed.
"Clean install
" means deleting the current W10 operating system by reformatting the hard drive partition it's on and loading a new version of W10 from, say, the CD that came with your PC. This, however, is the "nuclear" option and should only be used if all other options fail, since it will wipe everything from your operating system partition (e-mail contacts lists, applications, web site cookies, etc etc.) Not recommended unless you are very familiar with Windows operating systems, and hardly ever necessary -- in using a large number of Windows PCs from W95 through to W10 I have only ever done it once!
"Update" Is simply downloading and allowing the installation of any W10 updates offered by MS. It is not a solution to PC problems -- just a means of keeping your PC up-to-date.
"Upgrade" means installing a higher version of the operating system, usually for a charge.
"Factory reset" is returning your PC to as it was when it left Microsoft's production facility -- ie: no apps, no email contacts, etc.
"Reformat" means clearing everything from a hard drive partition or from the whole hard drive. As with "Clean install" above, is done in order to be able to do a clean install.

Without knowing what the issues are that you are experiencing, I would suggest that you try "Reset" or "Refresh" first as they are simpler to do and MS guides you through the processes. But whatever you do, make sure that all of your data and applications are backed up, because you only need to mistakenly click the wrong button to lose everything!

More information here:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-ie/help/12415
https://www.techspot.com/article/1671-windows-reset-keep-your-files/

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Choose Based On The Problems You're Having
Feb 23, 2019 8:44AM PST

Some brand name PCs experience "broken" features, or apps that no longer work, or error messages when doing tasks that were perfectly OK before Windows 10 updated itself. Some times you can fix this by going to the maker's website "Support" page and downloading/reinstalling the maker's drivers or software. This is because Windows 10's "generic" driver isn't compatible with your Dell/HP/Lenovo/Acer PC. So, you restore the maker's specific driver or app. It's a shame people have to troubleshoot these problems not of their own making.

Did your PC come with Windows 10 already installed? Or, did it come with Windows 7 or Windows 8 and you "upgraded" to Windows 10?

Many Windows 7 and Windows 8 users who upgraded to Windows 10 find that when Windows 10 gets a major update (about every 6 months) something on the computer no longer works, whether it be software or hardware.

For example, we have two Windows 8 computers, a laptop and a PC. Both were upgraded to Windows 10 a couple of years ago. Since then each computer experiences a problem with an app, or a feature, or hardware (such as no sound or no webcam) after Windows 10 updates itself. The most annoying issue is that our carefully set up home networking (for sharing files, music, and video) is reset to Windows "default" with every new update. This "breaks" our home network, forcing me to go through all the advanced sharing steps again and again.

We finally got fed up and reverted to the earlier version of Windows (with the addition of a free program called Classic Shell which gives us the old familiar Win 7 start button and start menu). No more problems!

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The Old Ways Are The Best Ways
Mar 1, 2019 6:48PM PST

I never took the Windows 10 upgrade and my Windows 7 computers work flawlessly.

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Love Win 7, myself.
Mar 1, 2019 6:58PM PST

Only problem is no mo' legacy stuff, since I opted for a HP 64-bit Pro. But it still runs on our 16-yr-old Toshiba laptop with 32-bit Xp Pro.
Only problem is ending of support; a bridge I haven't come to yet. Happy

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I still have a VHS player too that works flawlessly...
Mar 2, 2019 11:05AM PST

Windows 7 holdouts are becoming less common as W10 has far exceeded the stability and maturity seen in W7.

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Hmmm ...
Mar 4, 2019 3:54AM PST

Stable AND safe? Users need both. One or the other is lacking, or MS wouldn't be updating or whatever. In which case the problems reported here wouldn't be occurring. In which case the OS could be considered stable; without weekly hassles.
(Tech term: hassle = unstable. Happy )

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Reset is a hot mess
Mar 1, 2019 6:19PM PST

I think adding RESET with Win 8 (and carrying it over to Win 10) was a hot mess. I have had numerous clients who somehow found this and did it (being cheap, trying not to call me). But they did not realize all the junk programs I took off would be back and all the programs they really wanted and needed to use, that I loaded for them, would be gone. Good for my business, but bad for the average user, whom M$ does not care one bit about.

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I have a basic question....WHY are you looking to do this?
Mar 1, 2019 6:50PM PST

Many times people leap to using a big hammer (ie: Reinstall, reset, refresh...) when a small scalple would do!
What is / are the problem(s) you are having?
What was the last change you made before problems broke loose?
Have you looked at a GOOD AV product to scan your system?
Have you looked at a good anti-malware product?
Have you run CHKDSK and does it come back 'clean'?
I manage multiple PCs in my household and have assisted a half dozen of my friends. I have NEVER been in a situation where (Reinstall, reset, refresh, etc) was needed, and i have been through WINDOWS 7, WIndows 8, Windows 8.1 and now Windows 10.

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Correct!
Mar 2, 2019 8:18AM PST

There are many things that cause slowdowns that can be cleared up with steps that fall far short of a reinstall (or whatever you wish to call it) of Windows.

CHKDSK is one, but even before that I would scan your machine for malware/adware with one of the many applications that do such things. Adware can be a major factor in slowing down a computer.

If that fails, run CHKDSK and fix all errors.

Then run SFC /SCANNOW. This will find any O/S errors and is capable of fixing many of them.

Then run DISM with the appropriate arguments. This can fix a world of problems.

If you wind up reinstalling, it is usually best not to try to preserve your applications. It is likely to be your applications that have caused your slowdown. Although it's a hassle, it is better to reinstall them after you reinstall Windows -- but DEFINITELY back up your user files (Documents, Pictures, Music, etc.), plus your appdata folders, because these are likely to be lost in the O/S reinstallation if you do not.

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Re Correct!
Mar 2, 2019 3:50PM PST

The OP doesn't say the nature of his PC's "problems" and whether it's a desktop or laptop.

If it's just a slowdown and the PC doesn't have an SSD, I suggest cloning the HDD to an SSD. We've done that with several Win 7 machines and it has made them usable again.  Depending on how much data he has he might need to put the OS on the SSD and keep the HDD for data.

Definitely try CHKDSK.  That often is enough.

Although SFC /SCANNOW and DISM also should be tried, he shouldn't do those himself unless he's fairly knowledgeable about PC's.  Those assume "you know what you're doing."

If he's not knowledgeable enough to do those, he should not be trying to do resets, etc., unless he's willing to wind up having to do a reinstall.

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Here's all I know about Windows.
Mar 1, 2019 6:53PM PST

When we got Xp (I think it was), they said, "Hooray!!! No more BSOD!!!"
What they meant was, it would still crash, but
...
No more BSOD.

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My Win 7 HP desktop [still] has System Restore,
Mar 1, 2019 7:05PM PST

which I do not see mentioned here. Was it dropped?
I've used it, and it works as advertised.

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Still here
Mar 1, 2019 7:09PM PST

System Restore is still in Win10, I usually go to maint mode (shift while pressing restart) and run it from there.

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Re System Restore
Mar 2, 2019 3:52PM PST

CUTE THING ABOUT WIN 10 SYSTEM RESTORE -- THE DEFAULT IS OFF.

Yes, it's still there, but it comes preset to off.

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Of course it would.
Mar 4, 2019 3:57AM PST

Win 10 is perfect. Grin

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Caution required. Does your computer have a hardware issue?
Mar 1, 2019 7:36PM PST

Before you do anything else, you have to make sure that all the computer hardware is in good health, especially the hard drive, the most frequent point of hardware failure. If the hard drive has bad sectors, you will only mess things up further by doing whatever. Defraggler and CrystalDiskInfo are two free Windows programs that will tell you about hard drive health by showing you the SMART data, info maintained by the firmware of the drive itself. Look for defective sectors, reallocation events, current pending sectors, and uncorrectable sectors, any of which are non-zero.

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I just did this, twice
Mar 2, 2019 2:57AM PST

All of the terms are pretty much the same anyway now, with the way Microsoft has set things up.

BIG first step is to back up all your local files. Copy them to a flash drive, whatever. Windows 10 Installer will give you the option to keep all your apps and files at a stage of the installation, but better safe than sorry.

I recommend browsing to Microsoft and using their "Create Windows 10 installation media" tool. (Google for the quoted terms and you'll see a hit from Microsoft) You'll get the latest version and gives you the option to upgrade your PC or to create installation media. Later you'll see the option to keep all your apps. It auto-detects which version of Windows you should be on, so you don't need to worry about that anymore.

Windows 10 includes the drivers for most hardware. If you have a weird or old machine though, a factory reset would have all your drivers. Otherwise, go with a fresh install.

If you do a clean install, apps and files are all gone. A factory reset does much the same thing, except you'll end up with all the bloatware that came on your device and any proprietary drivers.

My recent experience: I opted to keep everything the first re-install, and things didn't improve much. Then I did a clean re-install and that fixed my issues. 2¢

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Re Install Media
Mar 2, 2019 4:00PM PST

With older hardware you might not be able to do a full install directly from the latest version.  We are in the process of upgrading a bunch of Dell Optiplex 380s (circa 2010).  They won't take a fresh install of 1803 or 1809.  I have to install 1703, then upgrade to 1803, then to 1809.  (I haven't tried 1703 directly to 1809.)

(We only use refurbs.  We do basic Office wordprocessing, simple spreadsheets, Outlook, VPN, and some web browsing, so we don't need "power"--and they come with Win 10 Pro x64 for less than $125 per PC. I have to convert them to 32-bit.)

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My luck has been far better.
Mar 2, 2019 5:09PM PST

My oldest laptop was the 2006 Dell E1505 Inspiron with 1GB RAM, 120GB SSD and W10 installed fine. Performance was great for such old iron. Cold start to web site on screen in about 35 seconds. Many told us don't do it. We did it.

Sadly that laptop was recently stolen.

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Convert to 32-bit?
Mar 4, 2019 4:01AM PST

By cutting the addressing chips in half with a Dremel?

OK, I know better than that, but just how do you do it? Sounds like something for my Win 7 64-bit.

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32 to 64 and 64 to 32 is a full install.
Mar 4, 2019 9:06AM PST

Microsoft has never documented any way but a full wipeout and install of the 32 or 64 conversion.

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Why would you want to?
Mar 4, 2019 9:41AM PST

Why would you want to convert from 64-bit back to 32-bit?
There are many tools available for programs that have problems in 64-bit mode.
You also limit the amount of usable memory.

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The why is in prior replies.
Mar 4, 2019 9:47AM PST

Post was last edited on March 4, 2019 10:01 AM PST

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What does 31-bit mode have to do with a 32G drive?
Mar 4, 2019 10:01AM PST

What does 31-bit mode have to do with a 32G drive?