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Why the barton 2500? parts?

-ASUS "A7N8X-E Deluxe" nForce2 Ultra Socket A
-AMD Athlon XP 2500+ Barton
-Western Digital 160GB Dual-option External Hard Drive
-Kingston HyperX Series 184 Pin(256MBx2)DDR PC-2700
-Plextor Black 8X DVD-RW/+RW Drive

I already have a 40Gig Seagate & 8Gig Generic, ATI AIW 9600, Zip drive, Liteon CD-R, Generic 4x DVD-ROM.

What do you think of my idea? Does it sound all compatible? Do you think Corsair memory would be a better choice? Would Geil mem be dependable as cheap as it is?? I'll be much more informed about this setup so i'll be OCing whenever im ready.
I'll be putting it together myself so if you have any advice or warnings about the building process, please lemme know.

this is the reply by Ray to my post from a previous conversation:
I just bought one because of price and the cheap mobo that I bought that only supports 333 MHz FSB.

Definitely go for a 400 MHz FSB CPU. I didn't check on the mobo but I hope that would support 400 MHz FSB.

Are you getting a new case. If I remember you added two fans so possibly the case will allow adequate cooling. The mobo's timing circuitry also enters into this equation.

If you are limited on funds why by the external drive now. Get the best CPU/mobo.PS, and matching memory that you can afford. Use the rest of your existing system until more funds become available.

Don't get less than PC3200 DDR, that is also called DDR 400. Check the overclockers forums to find out whose memory overclocks the best.

Definitely get a new good Power Supply. Many of the better PS mfr's offer two lines the "regular" [where the power specs cannot actually be met, and a "true power" version [Antec uses that name]. Go to www.tomshardware.com to read the articles they have on testing power supplies of the various vendors. You'll probably need a new supply anyway to get the extra four pin 12 volt connector to power the CPU. Your CPU was powered from the 3.3 Volt bus. The new mobo's use the 12 volt connector to reduce IR drops.

Remember the building process should also start with just CPU/FSF and a stick of memory. Could even start with the mobo laying on a sheet of cardboard. Mounting a new mobo in an old case can lead to shorting the mobo out by accidently leaving a hex standoff on the mounting plate that doesn't line up with the mounting holes on the new mobo. It shorts out the artwork on the mobo.

My suggestion now is that you start a NEW THREAD about selecting the components for your new system. This thread has degenerated to a dialog between you and me. Best to start a new thread and get some new brains into the thread.

By the time you buy, PCI Express will be out, BTX form factor mobo's and DDR2 memory will be out, so you should be able to buy your stuff at lower prices.

Posted by: Ray Harinec

Well, im thinking of the barton 2500 because its under 100 bux, i didnt see much better for another 20bux or so. The mobo im looking at has 333 FSB, seemed to me that 400 is just fancy but i must be wrong. For the external drive, well, its not necessary i know but i was thinking about how many movies i rip and how im very much out of space so for that reason alone my woman might actually chip in hehe ...

It surprised me to read about the voltage of my board, 3.3 makes it sound ancient to 12v! It makes me wonder how my pc could still have been THAT competent. On that note, what is IR?

Thank you very much for the cardboard tip i was very much wondering how to start things without short-circuiting everything. Im guessing the 'hex standoff' are those nut bolts on my case that the screws go into (right?), great tip ill make sure to situate them before trying to fit the new board in.

Ive read about PCI express and im not sure of what it applies to besides graphic cards?? Mine is AGP and i am definitely sticking to that card for at least 2 years cuz i love it. I dont know what BTX is, havent come across anything like that. As for the DDR2 i did find out a bit about that and thats just out of my league. Im thinking of getting 2700 & its true that prices should go down soon on 3200 because of the new ddr, but within a month? This is where the FSB question comes in. I saw that some other boards support 400FSB but if i cant afford the RAM then should i spend the extra bux for something that supports it?? Is there some other advantage besides the RAM speed w/ these boards?? Im thinking one stick of good OC-able 3200 MIGHT be affordable and then within a year i could get another & overclock sounds good but that depends on current prices.

See, im looking at it this way. I wont be needing an outrageously powerful computer, ill be using this pc this way: some video gaming, lots of graphic work(hopefully career takes off u know), ripping/watching/storing movies & music. These are the factors bending my purchasing power. For the movies ill obviously need lots of space or a dvd burner might be a cheaper resolution for that, i have it listed but it is just a flexible option against the external HD.

Don't think i left anything out for now.

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Re: Why the barton 2500? parts?

In reply to: Why the barton 2500? parts?

you are looking for OC'ing rigs
go here
register, post in AMD section
I would suggest (OC'er talking here) a 35w mobile
I would also suggest GOOD cooling, like the SLK-900A or SLK-948...with a 92mm nado.

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Don't let the 3.3 volt vs 12 volts for the CPU

In reply to: Why the barton 2500? parts?

concern you. They all used 3.3 volts for years. The key is to buy an ATX 12V type power supply, PC 2.01 spec or later. [tough to NOT buy the 12V] The 12 V gets the extra 12 volt connector. They had to change because the power that the CPU's consume got so high that the voltage drop in the power supply cables and especially the printed artwork created regulation problems. P [power] = E [voltage] times I [current]. Thus providing 70 watts at 3.3 volts requires 21 amps, at 12 volts it is only 5.8 amps [Current requires lots of copper]. Robert Proffitt made a great post showing the different guages of wire needed. The new 12 volt connector is also located close to the CPU to reduce the length of the printed circuitry to the regulators.They get the voltage back down to 1.75 volts or thereabouts.

You've had enough of my input. Enjoy hearing from some people that actually overclock and have great advice to give.

For your video work, post in Multimedia forum or in Computer Help. Toni Hackler a mod in CH has extensive video experience along with Robert Proffitt. There are others.

Good Luck on this new adventure. I'll watch for your posts. If you get confused about where the insulating washers go when mounting the mobo, you can ask. I think most will give you the incorrect answer. [hint the mobo mounting holes are NOT intended to be insulated from the mounting plate.]

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