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Who still does 3,000 mile oil changes?

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The article needs an update.

My Nissan Leaf doesn't call for an oil change as far as I can tell.

At 15,000 mile intervals the dealer checks brake fluid, changes the cabin air filter, rotate tires and does a system check. What oil?

Note: Edited to add the tires to the service list.

Post was last edited on March 13, 2018 1:21 PM PDT

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new filter every 5K miles

New 100% synthetic oil every 10K, or year, whichever comes first.

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I've never owned a vehicle that new ! LOL

I just gave my pickup to my nephew , a 98 Chevy , still going strong.
Has 199,000 mi. on it .
Every 3,000 it was for me .
I haven't purchased a new vehicle yet , not sure that I want one Wink

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Oil change

Hi, Lee; Back in the day, it was every 2000 miles for me, since I did it myself. Happy Then, with the newer vehicles, I went to every 3000 miles. Now, with synthetics, it's every 5000 miles. I've never owned a car that leaked or burned oil. I attribute that to frequent oil changes.

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The first car I purchased

was a shiny new '72 VW Super Beetle. You did oil every 3 K and it was an easy DIY job. The hardest part was finding an environmentally kind way to dispose of the oil but some garages and even K-mart would take it. Those VWs had no oil filter so 3 K was fairly important. We also did a "tune-up" at least once a year and this mean plugs, points, distributor cap and rotor as well as ignition wires. We also had to gap the plugs in between tune ups and we also had to remove the valve covers and gap for rocker arm to valve stem clearance which mean replacing the cork gaskets along with the copper drain plug ring. Oil was about 39c per quart (2 1/2 q needed) and I think that to DIY the whole tune up and oil change was under 20 bucks (thanks to JC Whitney in Chicago).

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Steven; Boy, does that bring back memories!!!!

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Such an easy car to work on

I could have the engine dropped onto the ground in about 1/2 hour without help. This was done to replace clutch parts. Being air cooled made it easier but one had to make sure the spark plug boots were in good shape and made a good seal or you'd overheat something. It was the #3 exhaust valve that commonly went on some of these as the oil cooler blocked the fan on earlier models. The battery was mounted under the rear seat and there was extra room in there for a few tools and spare parts I carried. You'd want to keep a fan belt at a minimum but I carried some carb rebuild parts as well as distributor parts. Two things could happen to the carb. One was the accelerator pump diaphragm would weaken and the car would want to stall when pressing the gas pedal. The other was the carb float in the reservoir that would get a pinhole leak and sink to the bottom so you'd flood the engine. I had that happen once and was able to fix it on the highway. Of course my hands didn't smell too good after that.
Today, few people know what a carburetor is or how they worked. I think mechanical distributors are a thing of the past as well. Today, all they're good for is to bore younger people with one's stories about their first car when a luxury aftermarket item was a cassette tape player.

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And, was much easier to just remove the distributor to replace the points & condenser since the distributor would only go in one way. Like the old Ford Flathead distributors.

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