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Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

i just upgraded from a voodoo 3 to a ATI AIW 9600 so i was very happy to see the new performance of my computer, i also added two extra fans so i thought i would go and overclock my pc. My mobo is a chaintech CT-7aja0 with an AMD Thunderbird 1.01ghz, they were nice enough to include an easy overclock method in the BIOS and so i thought while i was at it i could tweak up a couple more things... riiiight ... so i went to a couple menus in CMOS Setup Utility at boot... In Advanced Chipset Features, i set the Optimized Defaults (which only seemed to change modem from disabled to enabled). I did the same in Advanced BIOS Features which made this change, my first bootable device was still floppy, second was still HDD-0 but my third had changed from CD-ROM to LS120 i thought it might be some sort of booster !?%^*#!, the computer should know better than i... i had read that OCing is to change the voltage basically so i also did that from Frequency/Voltage Control, i changed PC100 +0.5 to PC133 +0.5 ... i booted and nothing! i checked with a computer whizzer (than me) if i was right about this procedure being OCing and i turned out to be right, even though im still not to sure if i have to flip any switches on the mobo also... now here is the results i got...

1. floppy does not test at boot.
2. hard drives do test and so do CD-ROMS
3. processor does some work then stops working after a minute or two.
4. i cant see what that work is because i have no display output! (not even a c: prompt)
5. monitor stays on standby mode (light flashing)
6. im guessing processing doesnt get to BIOS start because keyboard does not respond (num lock is off)
7. windows install CD does not make any difference to the boot.
8. nothing to do with my AGP ATI, i tried putting the voodoo PCI back in & no display still

after thinking about it for a while and asking some people my friend said that i should take out my battery from the mobo (not the PS) ... im at work now so i wont be able to test out that theory until 8 hours from now so if anyone has any other suggestions please do throw one because the more i get the better i'll feel (my heart beats differently when my computer is not operating properly i feel like im having a heart attack at 22) ... thanks in advance.


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You need to understand far more about overclocking.

In reply to: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

Unrelated is the LS120 setting. An LS120 is a type of floppy drive that uses an IDE interface . They are not made any more] They take a 120 MB disk as well as the regular 1.44 MB floppy. Your BIOS probably assumed the the LS120 replaced the floppy.

If you had PC 100 memory and tried to jump to PC133 in one step NO HOPE. The the idea is to increase the memory bus in 1 MHz steps. Probably won't have much luck with PC100.

Also remember that as you increase the memory speed the speed of the PCI and AGP busses increase proportionately, thus knowing what will cease to work fdirst is difficult to know.

There are so many more considerations,especially the CPU valtages, the CPU te,perature control aspects et al.

You really need to go to some of the overclockers forums and get a good overclocking education.

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

You can...
(1) Change the settings back. Do some more research about overclocking online. Try again.

(2) Change the settings back. Do some more research about overclocking online. Try again.

(3) To change the settings back...

Unplug the power cord from the power supply. Find the CMOS jumper on the motherboard. It will have 3 pins; 2 of which are currently jumped. This will be the running default. In order to clear your CMOS you have to 'jump' the other pin. Usually 1-2 is running and 2-3 is clear, but check your manual or online to be certain. With the jumper set to clear CMOS and the power cord STILL UNPLUGGED, press the power button on the front of your system. This will clear the CMOS back to default settings. Move the jumper back to the running position, plug the PSU back up, then turn your system on. This step should bring some relief.

The setting you changed from PC100 to PC133 is your RAM bus speed. It looks like you have PC100 RAM in your system because now it won't boot. RAM is harder to overclock than CPUs, especially around the PC100-133 era. Less-expensive, off-brand RAM is almost guaranteed to NOT be overclockable. I wouldn't recommend trying to overclock PC100 RAM. DDR RAM is a lot more overclock friendly.

The voltage you read about is the VCore, which is the CPU's voltage draw. Overclocking *should* be done in baby steps unless you just have tons of money to burn, literally. By turning either your CPU multiplier up, the frontside bus, or any combination of the two will, if done correctly, speed up your system, but in the process make the system less stable. Stability can be strengthened by 'notching up' the vcore. The CPU needs more voltage to run stable at the overclocked settings. Increasing the voltage is what adds more heat. So make minor adjustments, reboot, get into Windows, or whatever OS you have, I'll assume Windows, then run benchmarks to test system stability. If all benchies are good, reboot, crank it up a little more, rinse and repeat. Once the benchies prove the system unstable, reboot and bump the vcore up a notch. Rinse, repeat.

This is, in no way, supposed to take the place of any more than about 10 min. of research, nor is it intended, in any way, to be a HowTo for overclocking. The amount of research you do will save you a proportionate amount of down time and headaches, or as might be the case here, heart attacks.

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

i will be trying your suggestion, just one thing though, what do you think about my buddy's advice to simply take out the battery, wait ten secs, put it back in, and boot up again with the CMOS memory now cleared up??? also, my RAM is definitely PC133 SDRAM because i bought all the RAM myself, i thought it was weird that it was setup to PC100 so i believed it wasnt actually RAM speed... there was another number in that line PC100 -->#Mhz<-- +0.5v i cant remember the digit there though, the mhz was higher with the setting i changed as well w/ PC133 ...thx.

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Changing the CMOS jumper and removing the battery do

In reply to: Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

the same thing. One possibility in removing the batery is that you will bend the conntact and when you reinstall the battery not get a good contact. The jumpers are there for that purpose.

If you have been using PC133 all this time the only change to make first is to set the memory bus to run at 133 and see that the CPU speed increases to 1.4 GHz. What speed has it been running at?? [it would be the multiplier times 100, I forget what the multiplier of a 1.4 is. Probably 1400 divided by 133 =
10.5, thus at 100 MHz memory it was running at 1.05 GHz.]

This alone should seem like overclcking to you. LOL

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Re: Changing the CMOS jumper and removing the battery do

In reply to: Changing the CMOS jumper and removing the battery do

well its been running at 1ghz just like specs specify... 1.01Ghz AMD Thunderbird to be very exact. Are you saying that if i properly overclock my cpu i could get up to 1.4ghz???? i read SOME material about OCing but i decided i wouldnt touch any hardware for that purpose because i havent read enough, hence the safe (or so i thought) try-out of BIOS OCing, i figured it would be way more reversible than a hardware tweak... i do have a huge sink on my cpu and also a cooler master (loud-hissing) fan on top, and 2 very decent cooler master 2500rpm fans... im thinking of getting a new PS, an Aspire 520W with 3 fans ... what do you think??

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My error, I thought that I read that it was a 1.4.

In reply to: Re: Changing the CMOS jumper and removing the battery do

Doubt vrery much that you could get that high.

If you had been running the memory bus at 100 MHz and now increased it to 133 there would have been a speed change. Seems that you must have been running at 133 all the time.

You really should go to the overclocking sites and the forums at toms and anandtech and ask what you may acheive. That's a pretty old processor and you can be sure that there are people in those forums that have wrung every MHz out of it. You'll find that OC capability varies with the specific chip and which production run or factory it was made at.

As to the power supply, wouldn't spend any money until you learn more about overclocking. You may end up happy with what you have [or unhappy and decide to upgrade to a CPU that is more overclockable] [you'll find that in the forums also].

Good luck.

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Re: My error, I thought that I read that it was a 1.4.

In reply to: My error, I thought that I read that it was a 1.4.

thank you thank you

just to conclude... i didnt get to see a speed increase when switching the mhz since i changed a few other things at the time & causing this complete failure... sooo All that stuff i said about setting optimized settings in BIOS have NOTHING to do with this booting problem & ONLY my attempt at switching the PC/mhz/voltage was my mistake, correct? sorry for the newbie questioning, still learning.

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Re: My error, I thought that I read that it was a 1.4.

In reply to: My error, I thought that I read that it was a 1.4.

...ahh also i forgot to ask ... i see lots of pictures online of my mobo and i see a big difference with something...

i only have ONE BIOS chip on there and i see the slot for a second one what the hell is up with that???

and also i see only ONE set of switches for clock ratio where i see TWO on every picure

i see TWO of each even in my manual, what gives?!?!!?

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

The battery trick will most likely work. I have, personally, broken the clip that holds the battery in so I tend to do it the jumpered way.

I would leave the RAM where it is, or even if you continually run in to the "won't boot" problem remember that changing back to PC100 will probably clear it up.

I think the MHz you see by the PC100/PC133 setting is probably what Ray alluded to in his post, the PCI bus speed. I have had very little success with PCI overclocks. Considering the age of your system, I would mainly stick to the CPU for overclocks.

Along with Ray, I can't stress the value of research enough.

Unless you have, what was then, a high-end mobo, you will probably have to do your OCing via jumpers on the board. Look for 66MHz,100MHz, and 133MHz. Also, look for multipliers 5.0,5.5,... 8.0. Varying combinations will provide different clock speeds. IE moving a 750MHz (100MHzX7.5) to 133MHzX7.5 will give you a 1GHz system by only overclocking the frontside bus. Frontside bus overclocks are preferable, IMO.

I have only scraped the surface of overclocking. Good luck, and fruitful research to you.

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

OC'ing is done 1-step at a time and in very small increments. You'll find you're wall and such and thus settle for what you can get.

You should now reset the CMOS back to basic defaults. It should then return to boot and take it from there. Check your manual for the shorting pins/block to clear the CMOS of the bios. Also, recheck your work on the HSF setup as that needs to be 100%. review what other OC'ers do as alot of *small details* should be done or looked at. I suggest this website and take it from there:
http://www.overclockers.com -OR-
http://www.pcmodders.com (I think, google for others)

good luck -----Willy Happy

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

probably not helpful but.......

set everything you can, to it's highest possible setting and turn your machine on and let it run for 15 minutes. This should effectively fry everything on the motherboard. Now you can take that machine to a dumpster and buy a machine you can do something with.

Seriously, if you are not gaming or doing heavy video editing, forget the overclock. If you are seriously into gaming, heavy graphics work or massive scientific calculation and CAD, it is time to get a new computer.

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Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

In reply to: Re: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in B

well i AM into gaming and some heavy graphics.. should be an official graphic designer in a year ... but no money so no new computer for me, im upgrading very slowly, and intelligently i have to say, one piece at a time. My system is old going on 4 years but im extremely happy i made that purchase. At the time it was the fastest system i had seen around and the $500 dollar price tag with some older hardware added was very sweet especially for my first build. Now my system is still very stable even with the dozens of up-to-date games and apps ive thrown into it... isnt it good that after 4 years u can still look at ur system & be content with it? sure its very outdated, but how many budget systems of that time could still be considered competent now? i think that considering my financial situation ive made very good decisions. Soon enough ill be able to get a new mobo and processor and just throw all that quality hardware ive saved up for...THEN the following build will be massively researched w/ a limitless budget!... one piece at a time =) thanks everyone for all your help!

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In reply to: Tried to OC & thought id tweak a couple more things in BIOS

I followed everyones advice, i tried:

1. moving the jumper
2. pressing the power & reset button with the jumper moved, then plugging everything back in
3. after that didnt work i tried removing the battery (didnt break the clip thing!) for a couple minutes, power & reset button same
4. i tried starting with the jumper in 2-3 instead and nothing different happened

I put the jumper back to 1-2 and still i get nothing, no display, no post beep, same exact results as before

Here are a couple things i forgot to add early in the discussion...
I see lots of pictures online of my mobo and i see a big difference with something...
I only have ONE BIOS chip on there and i see the slot for a second one what the hell is up with that???

And also i see only ONE set of switches for clock ratio where i see TWO on every picure.
i see TWO of each even in my manual, what gives?!?!!?

any more suggestions???

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For resetting the BIOS, WHY did you

In reply to: OK I TRIED EVERYTHING ... help!

try so many variations, many of which you did incorrectly and may have cancelled each other out?
Do one thing. Best using the jumper as described in the manual.

While playing with the battery why not put a new one in? Bad battery can cause BIOS problem booting.

Where did you get the motherboard from??? Did it come in a Chaintech retail box???

Does the version and rev number match the manual and the models that you see photos of???

If your mobo model is in an earlier post I'll see if I can go to the chaintech site to see if I can deduce anything.

Frankly I think that your helter skelter approach to troubleshooting is stepping on its own toes.

At this point, the only way to start is to strip down to CPU w HSF, One memory stick, the case speaker Nothing else [all cards removed.every power and signal cable to any devicedisconnected. No mouse or keyboard, In your case you must find a way to reset the BIOS to the default settings by using the jumpers properly.

With valid BIOS and only the CPU/HSF and memory you should get lots of beeps due to lack of video. If that works, build up from there by adding video card and monitor, power up and see the first video screen showing video card and maybe BIOS info/ Get that far then shutdown add the keyboard and power up to get into the BIOS. Can't get this far you may have zapped the BIOS chip [CMOS]. You should be able to buy a new one from Chaintech for a reasonable price if it is not soldered in. Possibly the second spot is just for he purpose of the first one being dead. Gigabyte has two BIOS chips but they are soldered in.

Remember that with an ATX system when turned off by Windows or the front power switch there is still 5 volt logic power applied to the mobo. To remove this turn power supply off by the switch on its rear. {remember to turn it back on when needed. LOL [I forget all the time}.

Let us know what is happening.

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Re: For resetting the BIOS, WHY did you

In reply to: For resetting the BIOS, WHY did you

here's what i can answer you for now since im at work away from my problematic pc....

i only tried two different ways:

1. jumpers
2. battery (since 1 didnt work)

i hope that you read my first post which includes a lot of info on this weird situation.

my pc is going on 4 years now, the PS is starting to be a little faulty and my cpu fan is very whizzy, i would think the battery would still be fine since i never touched it before, what do u think?

I got the mobo from a local computer shop, they put it together for me (1 mobo, cpu, 1 hdd) i installed the rest myself and its all worked fine for years... the mobo is a KT133 7AJA0 by Chaintech, with an AMD Thunderbird 1.01 Ghz... can't tell much else about that its all at home.

I dont understand this one thing u said about HSF, can you clarify what that is?

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HSF is heatsink/fan the thing that cools the CPU

In reply to: Re: For resetting the BIOS, WHY did you

I just gave up on the Chaintech website. Slowest I've ever seen .

Did see that the JA0 wasn't listed. They show a JA2 and a JA2E. Tried to look at JA2 and gave up waiting for it to show.

Believe it or not the battery design life is two years [makes one wonder why the industry went to something that almost gauranteed that the computer would have to be opened for maintenance]. I think that most people get more than 2 years out of them, but they are only 2 to 3 dollars so with the case open why not replace it.

What does PSU going a little faulty mean?????

I'm trying to mentally go back to what sarted this [your attempt at overclocking using the BIOS]. Your comment about PC100 and PC133 confused me into thinking that you were running the memory bus at 100 MHz with PC100 memory and then changed the bus speed to 133 MHz. You later clarified that you were using PC133. I'm still wondering whether you had the memory bus [bus from memory to northbridge chip of the chipset] running at 100 with PC133. The Northbridge will allow the memory bus to run asynchronously with the FSB [the bus from the Northbridge to the CPU], but the system runs slightly slower because there have to be one or two clock wait states when the FSB clock looks for data that the memory bus hasn't yet made available.

As I think about your situation, maybe just strip down to CPU/HSF, memory, video card, keyboard, and monitor. NOTHING else [yes the connections to the front panel and speaker remain]. This should reduce the load on a weak power supply enough to try to boot.

Somewhere you mentioned 100 MHz with a +.5 and a 133 with a +.5 does that possibly mean that you have the memory bus overclocked by 0,5MHz??? If so, get rid of that. I thought that most OC type mobos stepped in 1 MHz, maybe yours allows 0.5 steps.

The thing that releases the Master reset to set the emmory counter to the location to start the BIOS and the boot process is the power go signal from the power supply [pin 8 on PS/Mobo connector]. Failure to boot at this configuration would normally get you down to CPU, Memory, Mobo, Powr supply [BIOS is part of mobo].
BUT, in your case your BIOS chip may be zapped and getting a new chip from Chaintech [if available] would be a good first try.

Of course mobo's of that vintage are available for less than $50.00 Newegg had a PC Chips one for about $35.00. Just used four of them. Unbelievably they arrive [full retail] with the BIOS jumers in the wrong place. Power will not go on with them in the wrong place on that mobo.[that's not a good Overclocking mobo]

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...more details

In reply to: HSF is heatsink/fan the thing that cools the CPU

This link is for the BIOS update on this mobo http://www.bios-drivers.com/drivers/79/79869.htm
this one is for the manual http://www.chaintech.com.tw/FILES/7xMB/MANUAL/7aja0.exe
- not sure if you could find out more info from there.

I will be replacing the battery with your suggestion it sounds like a good idea.

By PSU being faulty i mean that i hear little fizzing when i plug in the power cord or move it around, even when its not plugged into power... when it IS plugged in & switch is on OFF, i hear a very small buzzing which gets a little louder when i switch it to ON. Also its only a 250W PSU which seems weak when i look at whats out now for decent prices. I have 2hdd + 2cd-roms hooked up plus floppy, and i would like to plug in my zip drive as well as a dvd-burner some time soon.

More about the PSU. Before any of this happened, and before i got my ATI AIW 9600 a few days ago, my PC would have problems with not turning on when i pressed the power button. What seemed to fix this problem was to switch the I/O to OFF for at least 5 minutes (had to wait or it wouldnt work) and then switch it back to ON and press the power button. One thing that happened another time, this after getting my ATI, the screw thing snapped so only one side of the plug screws in and leaves it kind of hanging sideways (know what i mean?), this also made a funny fizzy noise which made my PSU power off and back on very fast not affecting the OS running (strange), but then i did it one final time and the pc shut off completely; it DID still work fine afterwards since i had the chance to mess up my BIOS minutes later. I hope this isnt all too confusing im just trying to be as descriptive as possible all the meanwhile hating the irony of this.

I'm very confused about the bus memory stuff, all i knew was that this thing runs on PC133 SDRAM, i have 512 i believe (2 sticks).

About the +0.5v, well i wish i had really paid attention to it to be 100% sure but from what i can remember, the default setup WAS +0.5v w/ PC100 (which i had no clue it had anything to do with my RAM since i knew for sure that it is PC133). I also remember seeing +0.25 i believe along with some other # combinations... some of which were not selectable, i figured this was because the mobo knew they would not work, which is why i also figured the mobo would know what to do in case something went wrong w/ a selectable setting! (this makes me so mad!!!!) Another thing about that is that the default setting was on PC100/100mhz/+0.5v (i am 90% sure of these digits) which i stupidly switched over to PC133/150mhz/+0.5v (90% sure). If i could get a display out from my pc i would gladly veryify all that!#^*~@% $#&%.

Well im sure i was as descriptive as confusing so please lemme know what to clarify next.

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dead link try this one for more specs

In reply to: ...more details

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If I remember, you want to save your money for a super

In reply to: ...more details

upgrade at a later date, so you may not like my ideas.

Re the power supply; 1. with the things you have added including the new video and the wierd sounds I would get one of the cheap 400 watters that Robert Proffitt touts. I doubt if they can really handle four hundred watts, but will certainly handle your system [maybe 320 real watts. The fizzing when it is not plugged in makes no sense at all.

Seems no doubt that changing to 133 caused the basic problem [loss of video maybe a coincidence because you didn't fix the connection]. Thus the BIOS must get set back to its defaults. If you can get video, there's hope [either that it is at default or you could flash with the downloaded BIOS] Takes access to the floppy drive to do that. [the more that I think about this, you need to get a new BIOS chip. maybe see if youcan buy one at that download site.] I had a problem like this trying to get an ASUS mobo clock speed set, when I exceeded where it wouldn't run, I fortunately had another BIOS chip to boot and change the Memory speed back a few MHz.

For turn on by I/O do you mean the switch on the rear of the Power Supply???? If so you, when you turn it OFF (0) you are removing the 5 volt logic power from the mobo and the various logic circuit capacitors get discharged and then your power turn on logic circuit works properly [it shouldn't get hung up but when you get into the BIOS there may be something in the Power Management section that needs to be changed.] If you don't buy a new supply we might want to understand the fizzing a little better later. I have learned by my own mistakes that being frustrated while troubleshooting leads to all kinds of hearing things that are not related to anything. LOL

What screw thing are you talking about after getting the ATI??? The Video connector???? Could be a great reason for no video. LOL

It would seem to me that even though you bought PC133 your system was set to run at 100 MHz memory. I tried to find info on a 1.01 GHz T-bird. There is none, it is 1.0. Wonder if that extra 0.5 on the 100 had it clocked a little higher.

I don't know if your version of the 1.0 GHz CPU supported 266 FSB. If you were running [unknown to you] at 100 MHz memory speed and the CPU did not support 266 GHz, you could have zapped the CPU when you changed the memory bus to 133 MHz. Some AMD data that I have says that there were some versions of the 1.0 that could support 266 MHz FSB, so don't panic. {or the CPU simply doesn't run and therefore doesn't overheat]

Lets resolve this one side of the plug screwwing in first. If it is the video connector on the cable to the monitor it has to get fixed. Hopefully [or maybe possibly] the weight of the hanging cable has caused the AGP card to not be seated properly [AGP cards are tough to plug in fully] Unfortunately I would expect to get the mutiple beeps indicating no video and usually the monitor will display a No Video dialog.

When you replace the battery take the old one out and don't put the new one in for ten minutes as a desperate try. Make sure that the BIOS jumper is in the run position.

Leave overclocking out of your goals. You must understand the various busses and there relationships and it get more complex with the new memories and like dual channel memory. Then the CPU voltages, overheating all get into the mess.

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Steps 1 thru 4 confuse me as to

In reply to: OK I TRIED EVERYTHING ... help!

where the jumpers were during each step. After trying the jumper method, the jumper should have been back to its original position. When you tried the battery method, the jumpers should have left alone. Seems that you tried powering up with the jumpers in the two diffeerent positions at different times.

Not knowing whether you have a working BIOS sure makes the troubleshooting in the stripped condition difficult.

Chaintech site does not offer BIOS for the JA0 mobo for downoad, else you could try to flash the BIOS. They do offer the BIOS for the JA2 mobo, but doubt if it would be compatible with your mobo.

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OK, I got really mad...

In reply to: Steps 1 thru 4 confuse me as to

... i tried leaving one RAM, one HD, floppy, the basics only plugged in, same results. I tried the jumper thing w/ this setup and nothing.

So i lost my patience and ripped everything out.

I unplugged everything took out the mobo, took out my AMD, nothing was burnt so im guessing i probably went overboard. I was tired of fiddling around with everything in there and playing the guessing game, I figured it would be better to stop before i shortcircuited something so precious as my HD or video card by accident.

Now i can say that i've really seen a computer as bare as it gets, i broke the case that held my proccessor in place and the AMD was intact, maybe ill put it in somewhere else once i have some money.

So the next time anyone will hear me speak of my computer it will be about my new one which i will have to fund months ahead of whenever i could have imagined with my budget. Do computer stores purchase old parts??

I put together this setup at Newegg:

-ASUS "A7N8X-E Deluxe" nForce2 Ultra Socket A
-AMD Athlon XP 2500+ Barton
-Western Digital 160GB Dual-option External Hard Drive
-Kingston HyperX Series 184 Pin(256MBx2)DDR PC-2700
-Plextor Black 8X DVD-RW/+RW Drive

I already have a 40Gig Seagate & 8Gig Generic, ATI AIW 9600, Zip drive, Liteon CD-R, Generic 4x DVD-ROM.

What do you think of my idea? Does it sound all compatible? Do you think Corsair memory would be a better choice? Would Geil mem be dependable as cheap as it is?? I'll be much more informed about this setup so i'll be OCing whenever im ready.

I'll be putting it together myself so if you have any advice or warnings about the building process, please lemme know.

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Lots to talk about. Why the Barton 2500?

In reply to: OK, I got really mad...

I just bought one because of price and the cheap mobo that I bought that only supports 333 MHz FSB.

Definitely go for a 400 MHz FSB CPU. I didn't check on the mobo but I hope that would support 400 MHz FSB.

Are you getting a new case. If I remember you added two fans so possibly the case will allow adequate cooling. The mobo's timing circuitry also enters into this equation.

If you are limited on funds why by the external drive now. Get the best CPU/mobo.PS, and matching memory that you can afford. Use the rest of your existing system until more funds become available.

Don't get less than PC3200 DDR, that is also called DDR 400. Check the overclockers forums to find out whose memory overclocks the best.

Definitely get a new good Power Supply. Many of the better PS mfr's offer two lines the "regular" [where the power specs cannot actually be met, and a "true power" version [Antec uses that name]. Go to www.tomshardware.com to read the articles they have on testing power supplies of the various vendors. You'll probably need a new supply anyway to get the extra four pin 12 volt connector to power the CPU. Your CPU was powered from the 3.3 Volt bus. The new mobo's use the 12 volt connector to reduce IR drops.

Remember the building process should also start with just CPU/FSF and a stick of memory. Could even start with the mobo laying on a sheet of cardboard. Mounting a new mobo in an old case can lead to shorting the mobo out by accidently leaving a hex standoff on the mounting plate that doesn't line up with the mounting holes on the new mobo. It shorts out the artwork on the mobo.

My suggestion now is that you start a NEW THREAD about selecting the components for your new system. This thread has degenerated to a dialog between you and me. Best to start a new thread and get some new brains into the thread.

By the time you buy, PCI Express will be out, BTX form factor mobo's and DDR2 memory will be out, so you should be able to buy your stuff at lower prices.

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The sentence about the mobo timing circuits

In reply to: Lots to talk about. Why the Barton 2500?

should have been after the end of the paragrah about memory.

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