I do not work for Pioneer, nor do I work for Sony.
I test the televisions with a host of testing discs and reference material in all resolutions (including primitive and up-to-date computer resolutions, down to 800x600).
And If you think I use the venue of a sales floor to make my "assumptions", you are sadly mistaken. But of course you would have assumed that I didn't have a dark room nor the money to test several televisions at one time. But I can and do.
The Silicon Optix test disc revealed many a flaw on the XBR4. Wether it was failing the simplist of deinterlacing tests, all the way up to failing film resolution tests in every resolution save 1080p, which it scraped by the skin of it's teeth, the television failed the Silicon Optix HQV test. The Pioneer passed all tests save the ultimate jaggies test, which all teles save the Runco SC1 have failed. There was a good deal of grain visible in standard-def and high-def 720p on the XBR4 that a Sony fan (like myself) would have expected the Bravia Engine Pro to clean up. Heck, even my KD-34XBR960, at 3yrs old can do that.
I used a very standard computer monitor test, using DVI-HDMI and VGA cables. displaying resolutions from 800x600 all the way up to 7282x4096. The Sony lost resoltuion at every reolution, more severely at resolutions before 1080p. It lost the least resolution at 1920x1080, it's native resolution. The Pioneer lost some detail, mostly at resolutions past 1080p. The Pioneer lost the least resolution at 1366x768, it's native resolution. At every resolution below 1080p at a distance of 1.5ft, the Pioneer yet again bested the Sony.
As per movies, I used the DVD and BD Casino Royale. I noticed the picture looked noticibly softer on the XBR4 with the DVD, whereas the Pioneer was able to show full resolution and clarity of the DVD (I could see where S&V would complain about the lack of SD performance). The BD was definitely clearer on both teles, but the Sony's inability to produce a black level, or for that matter, black detail, really left me wanting for more. This loss in detail was only the half of it.
The Motionflow helped the Sony from other LCD's I've seen, but there was still a good deal of streaking, and , when the video processor couldn't keep up with the action, there were artifacts that looked like a form of severe pixelization on the screen. And on both film formats (24p), the Motionflow gave a fast-forwarded look to the film, making it appear unrealistically smooth.
By an abiity to reprduce blacks, the Pioneer has more natural color. Black is the base-coat for all colors a television produces, which is why deeper black levels leads to more accurate color after calibration. Without modification, Sony's black levels were of a grey level, and in which case gave a blue appearence to the screen when displaying transitions between scenes. Also, the Sony revealed a severe 25% green error Via HDMI and 15% Red on Component Video. S-Video and Composite suffered similar results. The Pioneers both faried well in this department, revealing a minor 2.5% red error on component Video and no error otherwise.
720p. This is a resolution so great that at a mere 5ft from the screen, one would not be able to tell the difference between 720 and 1080. The human eye cannot percieve deatil that fine from that distance. Further more, most people would purchase from the 50-52 class for larger rooms, where they would be more likely to view from a distance of 10-15ft, far beyond the visibility mark of 1080p. People could buy a 1080 set to say they had 1080p, but there would be no visible much less practical use for it. Thankfully, in the sam ballpark as the KDL-52XBR4/5, the Pioneer PDP-5010FD is available. This is FullHD 1080p. Very little difference between the two, as I have both sitting in my dark room currently.
And your little quib about (EVEN PLASMA) really sent me over the edge. You make it seem that the technology with more experience, development and usage is infereior to a technology that has barely been on it's feet for 20 years. Plasma technology was invented in 1973 at the University of Illinois, with help form Pioneer, which would explain why it has the upper hand in plasma performance.
The burn comment has been addressed several times before also. I have Pioneer panles dating back to 1986, none of which have suffered retention. And have you heard of Image Persistance? That is what LCD manufacturers call Burn-in on LCD teles. If one has ever been to an Airport and viewed the flight cancellation monitors (flat, usually on a wall or ceiling), there is a lot of burn-in going on there. These are LCD monitors. I will say in normal use, Retention and Persistance should not occur, so long as one is to properly break-in the television with the proper equipment and settings. I have had several televisions give Burn-in, from Maxent plasmas to LCDs. Worse than retention is the dead-pixel factor on the LCDs, my god. EVERY LCD panel I have tested was fully broken-in as described below (naturally different Tv's have different settings, but nonetheless). And somehow, even under ideal operating conditions, every LCD I have tested has had dead pixelage. This can drive one mad, looking at a little dot on the screen that just won't change!
In response to your comment on the Samsung LN-T5271:
The 5271 has quite possibly the worst color accuracy out of the box I have ever seen. Greyscale tracking revealed a +/-1,000K difference between 20 and 100 IRE, abysmal performance. After ISF calibration, it scraped a below average +/-371K. The Motion Plus LED processor was slow at best, barely helping the set's 6ms response time (The learning curb for LCD's) and black levels were bluer and greyer than the Sony KDL-52XBR4/5, which I had complained about earlier.
Let's also look at professional use. Abbey Road Studios, famous for making recordings of some of the best artists ever, uses Pioneer
plasmas as monitors. Skywalker Studios (Lucasfilm) uses Pioneer Plasmas as monitos when creating Star Wars and other recent films. And here's the real kicker: Sony Studios (who would naturally be able to get XBR5's cheap) bought 273 Pioneer plasmas as color proofing monitors for Casino Royale, a movie made to reference quality, and thereafter.
In conclusion, the Pioneer is certainly better than the Sony KDL-52XBR4/5 (as if there were ever a debate). If you are still in disbelief, read further...
Here is some useful information for those looking at breaking in their new flat panel TV:
Break In
by ns387241 - 12/6/07 8:06 AM
In reply to: Thanks for your help by corppsych
The Pioneer KURO's have approx. 200hrs of what i might call "break in". Like fine wine, your new television will look better with use. Here are some precautions and recommendations I would consider seriously when making a new flat panel purchase:
1. The television need be transported in an upright manner. Failure to do so could result in dead pixels, cracked frame, or worse yet, cracked glass.
2. Upon the arrival of the television, inspeact all areas of the chassis to assure there were no mishaps during transit. Also, allow the television to sit out of the box in the room you will be using it in for at least twice the time it was sitting in the truck. This will prevent any "cold starts" and possible damage to the set.
3. USE A POWER CONDITIONER!!! This is quite possibly a "best practice" for one who is demanding of performance and lifespan out of their set. Monster Power, Richard Grey's Power Company (RGPC), and Panamax are some brands to consider. These will remove noise from power, coax, phone and ethernet lines. Less noise in the lines mean the television has to work less to acheive a similar effect (we call this efficiency in NY). This means less grain in pictures, more vibrant, dynamic colors and resistivity to large surges and some direct hits. Power conditioners without T-2 Automatic disconnect technology or similar circuitry should have a UPS (battery backup) as an accompaniment. I use one anyway (that way you can watch the game when everyone else has lost power). Also, power conditioners wihout a grounding terminal should have the Klipsch MAGIC (Mondial Antenna Ground Isolation Circuit) Box. This will separate the ground from signal, thus eliminating any ground-induced noise, and giving more resistivity to a direct hit.
4. The initial setup of the television should be as follows:
1. Make all non-power connections
2. Plug in power conditioner (conditioner switched off)
3. Plug television into power conditioner
4. Turn on power conditoner
5. On your set, there is a soft power switch on the bottom left corner. Push it.
6. Hit menu on the remote. Go into picture settings. For the first 200hrs, these settings should apply:
Picture Mode: Standard
Brightness: 30
Contrast: 30
Color: 30
Sharpnaess: 30
Tint: 30
Pro Adjust:
Pure Cinema:
Film Mode: Advance
Text Optomization: Off
Picture Deatil:
DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 1
Gamma: 1
Color Detail:
Color Temp: Low
CTI: Off
Noise Reduction:
3DNR: Off (High for Standard Def Sources)
Field NR: Off (Low for Standard Def Sources)
7. Go into Power Control settings. Set Power Saving Mode to Mode 2. Set No Operation Shut off to Enable. Set No Signal Shut off to Enable.
8. Go into Option. Set Orbiter to Mode 2. Set Room Light Sensor to On. Set auto size to Wide Zoom. Set side Mask to Enable and Brightness sync to auto.
9. Again, these settings should be applied for the first 200hrs. Do not leave the television on for extended periods of time with no signal or a still image during "break in", as retention is likely to occur at this stage. Once broken in, the set will be wholly impervious to retention.
5. After the first 200hrs, a full ISF Calibration should be performed. I recently has the 5080HD calibrated, as it has finally reached the 200hr mark. I took all power saving options off. I also saved $8 on this month's power bill, as the televison becomes even more energy-efficient when calibrated. The thing looks beutiful. The 5010 isn't quite to the point of calibration yet, so I cannot share calibrated settings with you, but I do strongly reccommend a calibration by an ISF-Certified Technician if you demand performance like no other.
Just to let you know...
by ns387241 - 10/5/07 8:07 PM
In reply to: replying to il signo by meandmybigideas
If you actually took the time to do what I had suggested, you would have noted that specifically on Samsung's manufacturer's website (www.samsug.com), Samsung clearly states:
"Faster Frames for a Clearer Picture
This technology doubles the frame rate from 60 to 120 frames per second (120Hz LCD panel) without repeating the same image to make more frames. Instead, the TV intelligently calculates the ?middle? image between frame A and frame B and inserts it in between (Auto Motion Plus 120Hz processor), making a fluid transition from one frame to the next"
Having cleared that out of the way...for the real problem: Picture quality is a science, there is no such thing as taste when it comes to being true to the signal, which happens to be the goal of these teles. Therefore there is a right and a wrong when it comes to this industry. Now, if you can assure me that both units that you have tested are brand new out of the box, without manufacturer defect (Pioneers shouldn't have any, but everyone makes a lemon), and the seetings are as I described on the last post (WITHOUT 120HZ, WITHOUT Black level enhancer, or for that matter any professional mods found in advanced settings), you will find the greyscale tracking on the XBR4 to be something like this:
"Color temperature (Warm2 color temperature before/after calibration):
20 IRE: N/A
30 IRE: 5,470/5,878 K
40 IRE: 5,840/6,531 K
50 IRE: 6,056/6,441 K
60 IRE: 6,275/6,520 K
70 IRE: 6,304/6,661 K
80 IRE: 6,263/6,547 K
90 IRE: 6,359/6,489 K
100 IRE: 5,789/6,298 K
Brightness (100-IRE window before/after calibration): 36.0/34.4 ftL"
As you can see with the data I have collected above, the XBR4 isn't exactly spot on with the greyscale tracking. The Pioneer looks more like this:
"Color temperature (User Mode/Low Color Temperature):
20 IRE: 6,109 K
30 IRE: 6,446 K
40 IRE: 6,418 K
50 IRE: 6,425K
60 IRE: 6,455 K
70 IRE: 6,463 K
80 IRE: 6,429 K
90 IRE: 6,445 K
100 IRE: 6,441K
Brightness (100-IRE window): 31 ftL"
The difference between the two simply for color accuracy is amazing. The XBR4 has a 200-degree difference, whilst the 5080HD has about an 81-degreee difference from 20-100IRE.
These greyscale tracking measurements shown above directly measure accuracy of color, and are used so for a full ISF calibration, so the comment you made on coloration is nil.
When it comes to black levels, I have to say this:
"Kuro, Adj. Black: Being of the achromatic color of maximum darkness: Origin: Japanese"
There is a reason why Pioneer chose this name for their panels. There is currently no such thing as deeper blacks than a Pioneer Kuro on a flat TV. And for that matter, there are only a handful of front projectors that can even begin to display that level of darkness on their screens (low gain or high).
And I am not at all recommending the Samsung panels, as they are tererible with standard def (as Sony panels are also) and do not compare to Loewe and B&O panels at all. Rather I am here on this form to discuss the pros and cons of each tele at hand: Sony LCD and Pioneer Plasma. Since Pioneer is certainly the best in plasma this side of Dreamvision (SRP:$42.995,00), we should be comparing the other panels like Sharp (creator of the LCDTV), Bang and Olufsen, and Loewe for a fair comparison. This is like a BMW 3 series versus a Maserati MC12 - is a comparison really even necessary? The Pioneer, with supporting scientifically measureable and verifiable data backing it, is -of course- the winner.