HDTV Picture Setting forum


Samsung PN60F8500 picture settings

by katzmaier CNET staff/forum admin / April 30, 2013 5:18 AM PDT


Related products:
Samsung PN51F8500
Samsung PN64F8500

Calibration report using these settings:
(see below)

TV software/firmware version tested: 1017

Below you'll find the settings I found best for viewing the Samsung PN60F8500 in a dim room via the HDMI input. Your settings may vary depending on source, room conditions, and personal preference. Check out the Picture settings and calibration FAQ for more information.

Calibration notes: As always the Movie setting was Samsung's best, and it delivered a very capable picture without any adjustment. Grayscale and color errors were all modest, with the worst being Blue and Cyan, and neither was that bad. Notably, Movie also measured quite bright at 56 fL, which I consider too high for a dim or dark room (my target is 40).

Before I could get to adjusting graycale and color, I was faced with a new setting, and a few familiar ones, that had a large impact on picture quality. The new setting, called "Black Optimizer," is explained by a classic piece of gobbledegook in Samsung's menu ("This function can be represented to more rich black level and magnified contrast of low gradation by PDP waveform and signal compensation"), but the net result is that selecting "Dark Room" improves black level significantly. I measured 0% luminance at 0.002 fL in that setting, while the other two ("Off" and "Bright Room") came in at 0.007 (lower is better). I checked for obvious downsides, for example crushed gamma and floating/popping blacks, but didn't see any, so I chose to calibrate in "Dark Room."

The other unusual setting that had a major impact on black level, and which did necessitate a tradeoff, was Cinema Smooth under Film Setting. Engaging it with Dark Room active raised (worsened) black levels to 0.004. It does have a positive impact on video processing, as detailed in the review, but I still chose to calibrate with it in the Off position.

Those issues settled I pursued a normal calibration. After a basic 2-point grayscale calibration I to wrangle the 10-point system to improve gamma and grayscale, but found myself running out of range in at some levels to try to compensate for gamma variations. Unfortunately, looking at program material afterward I noticed color banding, specifically magenta in near-white areas, which disappeared when I switched the 10-point adjustments Off completely. For that reason I ended up skipping it.

There was also significant inconsistency in the middle of the scale at 50 IRE; the color and brightness of gray varied quite a bit from measurement to measurement, and there was little I could do about it (that's the reason why my final calibration resort has a big spike at 50; on other measurements taken in isolation, it could be totally flat). Peak white also fluctuated somewhat, although not nearly as wildly as 50.

As usual Samsung's color management system worked extremely well, although not quite as well as in the past. Blue was still problematic and I couldn't get it under the error threshold for "Good" in the Geek Box. Cyan also varied somewhat from one measurement to the next.

All told my calibration yielded only modest improvements over the default Movie mode. Perhaps another calibrator could coax better-looking charts out of the F8500, but I couldn't.

As I mentioned in the review I also experienced more temporary image retention on the F8500 than usual. For example, after adjustment I could see the imprint of my calibration window pattern, the menu and even the input on a black screen. The strange purplish artifact also appeared, only visible between 7 and 12 IRE field patterns (although those changed depending on the brightness setting). Full field images at these levels also showed a sort of cascading purplish effect along the top; faint, but still visible from up a normal seating distance. The retention was very temporary in every case, disappearing within a few moments of watching normal TV for example, and it didn't interfere with my enjoyment of any program material aside from what I noted in the review.

My PN60F8500 review sample was aged 120 hours before calibration and review, but there's no reason you need to similarly break it in before you apply the settings below.

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 17
Contrast: 94
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50

Picture size submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Position: [no change]

Auto Adjustment submenu: [Grayed out]

3D submenu: N/A

PIP: Off

Advanced settings submenu:
Dynamic contrast: Off
Black tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
Motion Lighting: Off [grayed out]

Color Space submenu:
Color Space: Custom
Red: Red 48, Green 4, Blue 4
Green: Red 22, Green 54, Blue 8
Blue: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 55
Yellow: Red 46, Green 55, Blue 7
Cyan: Red 26, Green 43, Blue 40
Magenta: Red 47, Green 0, Blue 55

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 22
G-Offset: 26
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 26
G-Gain: 24
B-Gain: 27

10p White Balance submenu: Off

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm2
Digital Clean View: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal [grayed out]
Film mode: Off
Motion Judder Canceller: Off
Black optimizer: Dark room

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Very Helpful
by Grendelbane / January 24, 2014 10:01 PM PST
In reply to: Calibration report

I used your settings on my PN518500 with brightness on 49 and have seen a marked improvement. I am sorry to see ***********'s comments (what a perfectly apt name he has chosen). ***********, saw your raft of criticism...please print your settings so I can compare the result to Kazmaier's.

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Brightness up
by Gemmer34 / February 12, 2015 10:46 AM PST
In reply to: Very Helpful

My picture with these settings seem to be a bit less vibrant, but maybe they are truer. Would like to know if there are different settings for watching sports... thanks

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10p White Balance: On / 10p White Balance submenu: Off ?
by dingleberryinc / May 3, 2013 6:27 AM PDT

What are your 10p values please?

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See the Notes above.
by katzmaier CNET staff/forum admin / May 7, 2013 6:13 AM PDT

"After a basic 2-point grayscale calibration I to wrangle the 10-point system to improve gamma and grayscale, but found myself running out of range in at some levels to try to compensate for gamma variations. Unfortunately, looking at program material afterward I noticed color banding, specifically magenta in near-white areas, which disappeared when I switched the 10-point adjustments Off completely. For that reason I ended up skipping it."

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Sorry, must have missed that.
by dingleberryinc / May 7, 2013 8:05 AM PDT
In reply to: See the Notes above.

You should edit your config to say 10P off. It is confusing.

Also, there are many other professional calibrators who have used 10p successfully with the F8500.
I as an amateur calibrator have used successfully too.
Do you think you may have had a bad unit?

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I am assuming one of two things:
by dingleberryinc / May 7, 2013 9:00 AM PDT

A) Your TV was 'bad'.
b) The TV was not calibrated properly and therefore you have not achieved the best results.

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katzmaier-These settings worked.Thanks much !One question
by arjoshi1 / May 30, 2014 12:37 AM PDT

katzmaier-These settings worked.Thanks much !One question--I belive that these settings are for TV irrespective of what Source we use right. eg:- the tv settings ahould be applicable to TV source or any hdmi source as well right?

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(NT) Did you break your tv in before using these settings?
by stunner316 / December 5, 2014 5:10 AM PST
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Question regarding sports
by BoxBabaX / December 17, 2014 2:43 AM PST

Hi Katz,

Thank you for this detailed description! love your reviews in general :).

Question regarding NFL and fast moving sports, should I do any adjustments to these settings?


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Sports too!
by Gemmer34 / February 11, 2015 2:29 AM PST

I was wondering the same thing... watching basketball and hockey and disappointed in the picture. I see to many (artifacts?) when following the ball or players arms or hockey players as they fly around the ice. It's like there are pixels chasing them sometimes. Maybe I'm too picky, but with this good of a set, I expected more and am assuming at this point that it's my settings that are at fault. And I did turn the motion judder canceller to "off"

I have the PN64F8500 with a built date of Nov 2014, so wondering what differences I might need to account for? Some of the calibration information I have seen have been on the initial 8500's and Samsung must've changed some of their menu options. Thanks for the effort and great info. I'm sure I'll get the tv looking better eventually!

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Judder Setting For Sports
by MOAMDFS / September 7, 2015 8:00 PM PDT
In reply to: Sports too!

The motion judder setting should be 'Standard' for sports or other live events, and off for movies and other pre-recorded shows (to avoid the 'soap opera effect"). Different channels have different HD compression standards, so results will vary, but the judder option fills in where the broadcast fails, reducing pixelization and increasing clarity and definition of live events.

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