Thank you for being a valued part of the CNET community. As of December 1, 2020, the forums are in read-only format. In early 2021, CNET Forums will no longer be available. We are grateful for the participation and advice you have provided to one another over the years.

Thanks,

CNET Support

Question

Router Power Supplies ???

Jun 29, 2015 10:46AM PDT

This forum is confusing...I don't understand how to "add to/edit" my original post without seeming to "reply" to someone else's possible answer.So,I'm beginning a new post.

ATT told me that my router (An ATT 2Wire 2701HG-B) had went bad.So,I purchased a new one (An ATT 2Wire i38HG) from ebay.This router would not work either for some reason.An ATT service tech came to the house to test the outside lines.All seemed fine.He came into the house and we tried the old router with the new routers power supply.THIS worked !

So,the tech told me that the old routers power supply had gone bad.That still does not explain why the new router would not work though.Nor,does it explain to me why the old router would not work with the old power supply when the power supply seemed fine.All the lights seemed to work.But,after it seemed to power up and the DSL and the Internet lights began to be lit a solid (as opposed to flashing) green,the router would then begin the whole process of trying boot itself back up all over again.Thus,never allowing an internet connection.

I have looked at the new routers user guide online and it says "The HomePortal®iNID (intelligent Network Interface
Device) system comprises three components: i38HG
(inside unit), iPSU (power supply unit), and i3
812V (outside unit). These components are dependent on
each other and do not have standalone
functions. Using these components
together provide triple-play
service (voice, data, and video) to your home".

So,is this telling me that without all 3 of these components that this router will not work to simply connect me to the internet ? I've never heard of a router like that.And,in fact,the tech had never seen this router either.

PLEASE,everybody.....any input would be greatly appreciated.It certainly seems ridiculous to me to pay $27 (total) for this new router when (it seems) that nothing more than a simple power supply was needed.

Discussion is locked

- Collapse -
Answer
I'm going with today's higher DOA counts.
Jun 29, 2015 11:18AM PDT

I'm seeing more gear arrive Dead On Arrival. 27 bucks is a bargain. I guess you missed the days when it was 10 times that price.

- Collapse -
Router Power Supplies ???
Jun 29, 2015 12:06PM PDT

Ohhhhhhhh trust me,my friend,I did NOT "miss" those days."Those days" are still here.I just refuse to pay that price for something I can get for less than half that price when I know that that product will be "burnt out" in a matter of 1-3 years ?????? WoW !!

- Collapse -
Then my bet is the second "router" was as JD noted.
Jun 29, 2015 12:18PM PDT

Not provisioned for your ISP.

It's a shame but I'm seeing products that appear to be 5 year designs. Smart phones, TVs etc. There's a lot on the web about that but 27 bucks to get fixed is a bargain. Here an OOW (out of warranty) service call starts at 150. 27? bargain.

- Collapse -
Then my bet is the second "router" was as JD noted.
Jun 29, 2015 12:27PM PDT

Yeah..."service calls" here start at 100 But,since they thought it was their problem (a line outside the house) the "service" was free.I git lucky.The guy said he'd come inside & check a few things and not charge me.So,THAT was cool ! As always,thanks for all your answers Mr.Proffit.

- Collapse -
Answer
routers
Jun 29, 2015 11:53AM PDT

the new router probably didn't work for internet because it's MAC or serial number wasn't registered with your ISP.

The power unit for the old router was failing, maybe shorted, but enough to make lights work but too weak beyond that. You can check it with a meter but realize it works like a transformer, so basically it's two coils side by side around a common iron core and then some resistors and directional diodes (plus AC to DC convert by a zener diode) may be added. You have to test both coils separately, which is done at each plug end. You would be meauring resistance, and even then the short may only occur when it's been warmed up, since metal expands and contracts with changing temps.

Another way to test is to plug into the wall and then hook the meter to the power output and test if DC or AC output (should be DC) which indicates failed diode, and for voltage and if you have ammeter can check for actual power capability. Ready to do all that?

You had a failed power to the old router, and didn't have the new router registered and that's the answer to it all.

- Collapse -
routers
Jun 29, 2015 12:35PM PDT

James-thanks VERY much ! What more can I say ? WoW.

- Collapse -
Answer
Looks like rebranded Motorola Surfboard modem
Jun 29, 2015 12:19PM PDT
http://www.att.com/support_media/images/pdf/uverse/iNIDv2_UG.pdf

Motorola surfboard, older style, but docsis, not DSL
http://bestcablemodemreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/201308011036011.jpg

The iPSU is similar to Verizon's ONT with battery. It allows a few days of internet/phone access (if the modem is powered by some means) during power outage, mainly for phone service emergency use. One can power the modem using invertor hooked to a car's battery during emergency power outage. I've done that. Inverter in my van, run extension cord into house, power modem, computer (usually switch to lower power laptop), TV and a couple CFL bulbs during winter storm. Battery on the ONT (iPSU for ATT) kept comm lines working.

Anyway, that link to manual will explain all of it.

If you ever get chance to go optical, take it. Fiber optic has been wonderful switch from POTS for me.