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Problem with Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA

by aybills / August 6, 2009 7:39 AM PDT

I have a 3-year old Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA with various problems. First, it doesn't respond to pressing the Power button (on either the TV or remote). When I plug in the unit, the system automatically turns on and goes through its normal self-tests/lamp comes on/and color wheel is spinning (based on sound). Picture is highly distorted, scrambled and jittery, but audio seems normal. After about 15-20 seconds the picture freezes and audio goes out, then the picture goes out also. After another 5-10 seconds, the distored picture and audio come back. This cycle repeats. The TV will not respond to power button or other commands (eg, I pressed MENU on the remote, but no response). I unplug the unit to turn it off.

I believe I may need to replace the main board, but I want to be as sure as possible because the main board is expensive and I'm worried it won't fix the problem. The main board PCB is labeled: Hurricane2 L64C HLR4266W. Rev H2ANALOG V1.2 2005.04.12. Code BP4-00214C.

To get even the limited picture that I do get, I believe the lamp, ballast, and color wheel are working. I'm not sure if the DMD itself is working or if the chip also needs to be replaced (I think replacement boards don't automatically come with the DMD, right?). The unresponsiveness of my TV might suggest that something else beyond the imagining is having problems (unless the system behavior is "normally" erratic when there's a DMD failure).

I've also taken a video showing the failure symptoms which I described and uploaded it to YouTube:

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

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: Problem with Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA
by Samsung_HD_Tech Samsung staff / August 6, 2009 11:52 AM PDT


I noticed that there is no color distortion in the menu box on the top left hand side of the television. If the DMD chip or the color wheel was going out, it would go out on every part of the picture, and not just the broadcast, leaving the channel box intact. If you look, the box doesn't change at all, except for the transparent picture behind it. The fact that it turns off may simply point to a power supply, but without inspecting it, it would be hard to determine.

The mainboard, from what I understand, does include the DMD. Not that I think this is the problem, but because you asked.


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Problem with Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA
by aybills / August 7, 2009 9:35 AM PDT

Thank you for your feedback! It has been extremely helpful! I never suspected the power until now. I repeated the test with AV inputs disconnected to make additional observations, and I have uploaded the results to YouTube:

As you can see, the lamp stays on the entire time the TV is plugged in, whether a picture is on the screen or not. There is an audible clicking/switching sound when the picture comes on or off.

As you mentioned, the blue overlay in the upper left corner does not change color (aside from the transparent jitter beneath which is visible). On one instance, I also able to get a blue overlay in the center of the screen "No source detected" which also did not have jitter or color fluctuation except due to the transparency. Based on your previous comments, I'm now inclined to believe that the light engine and the DMD chip itself are ok.

Based on this additional information, are you able to better diagnose which board probably needs replacement? I have researched problems with HLR5067W, and there seem to be LOTS of complaints about defective DMD boards. But since they are $400 each, I'm reluctant to sink more money into the TV unless I'm pretty sure it will fix it.

Thanks again!

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tv tuner and video decoders
by aybills / August 12, 2009 2:20 AM PDT

Which board(s) has main system processor and the video decoders?

I thought they'd probably be on either the

DMD board BP96-01102A


"digital board" BP94-02084A

Also, does anybody know a place that has a liberal return policy in case the boards I purchase aren't the failing parts?

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tv tuner and video decoders
by Samsung_HD_Tech Samsung staff / August 13, 2009 11:49 AM PDT


We'll bump this up to see if anyone else has any suggestions.

You can call our parts department (US) at 800-627-4368, but I don't know which part would be best for your situation - nor do I know their return policy.


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Made-To-Fail (Planned obsolescence)
by 4795266 / May 25, 2016 11:19 AM PDT

This is what happens when you buy Korean and a Samsung. It's PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE and a low quality of workmanship. Do not confuse Japan with Korea! I have the same TV and its 3 years old and it is dead. I spent over $100 on transportation costs to send it to the SAMSUNG repair facility and... they told me they are unable to repair it. SAMSUNG is unable to repair its own production that is not very old!!?? No more SAMSUNG for me ever and I am serious about that.

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Made-To-Fail (Planned obsolescence)
by 4795266 / May 25, 2016 6:45 PM PDT

What is the point posting the truth if it gets deleted...

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by 4795266 / May 25, 2016 6:46 PM PDT

Oops, my mistake Happy

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this worked for me.
by jasonm1976 / August 15, 2009 12:32 AM PDT

I had the same issue it was the digital board. I found a way to make mine work again please check out. the dnie chip inside the digital board needs to be held down. lind of like the xbox 360 x clamp idea. pushing it down makes it get contact again and the tv works again.

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by aybills / August 18, 2009 2:52 PM PDT
In reply to: this worked for me.

Thank you very much! I really appreciate this tip. I'll give it a try and follow up here w/ the results.

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contact / connection problem
by aybills / August 20, 2009 3:12 PM PDT
In reply to: Thanks!

Thanks again for your suggestion about the DNIE chip. The good news is that you've led me down the right path - all subsystems are actually "functional" to some extent. I disassembled the digital board set, pressed down on the DNIE chip, put everything back together, and everything worked... for a few hours. At this point, I'm still not entirely sure it was the DNIE chip though. I tried repositioning some of the cables without touching the chip again, and was again able to get the system to work for a few sessions, but I couldn't get the TV to work consistently. I'm going to try wedging a heat sink as you suggested in case the problem is a crack lead/cold solder joint/etc.

At this point, I'm at least reasonably sure that problem resides w/ the digital board set + related assemblies and interconnects. But I'm still reluctant to switch the main processor board outright in case it's actually a connector/cable issue.

In any case, thanks again for your suggestions!

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Testing lamp panel sensor
by aybills / August 23, 2009 5:13 AM PDT

After using foil to press on the DNIE chip, problem went away for a couple hours, then returned. I used enough foil that I'm confident there was pressure being applied to the chip.

One common link to almost everything I've tried is that the picture works for awhile then goes away. One possibility is that this is a thermally-related problem, but another is a mechanical issue (ie, disassembling the back panel and board set, moving cables around, and re-assembling. I've tried isolating specific cables and sub-assmeblies, but the one common link among all of my temporary "successes" is the removal and replacement of the back panel. So currently, I'm testing out the panel sensor covering the lamp which seems to be the only thing which is always affected whenever I remove and replace the back panel. My thinking is that perhaps the switch is on the margin of engagement such that when I button up the back panel it works for awhile, but then settles ever so slightly so as to lose (perhaps intermittently) contact.

Does anybody know offhand if the lamp panel switch (the one behind the small sub-panel covering the lamp) would cause the erratic behavior which I first described? Intuitively, I would have thought not, but I noticed some "anomalous" behaviors when I was manually bypassing the switch w/ electrical tape and the tape fell off.

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Digital board
by cohbraz / August 23, 2009 6:03 AM PDT

A defective lamp cover switch would not cause all of the issues you are having on that set.

Everything points back to the Digital Board, even all of the different symptoms you are having.

Replacing the digital board should get your set back up and running.

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sounds like you need to replace the digital board
by jasonm1976 / August 23, 2009 12:38 PM PDT

sounds like the digital board needs to be replaced. everywere I check its on back order. this is a comon issue with this model is that digital board.

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digital board replacement - design or manufacturing defect?
by aybills / August 24, 2009 8:58 AM PDT

Thanks to all for the feedback! I'll go ahead and try replacing the digital board.

On a related note, I wouldn't have considered the digital board to be a "wear and tear" item which would experience so many field failures after a few years (several newsgroups cite similar problems, as mentioned). Even though the TVs are out of warranty, if this is indeed some sort of design, manufacturing or other systemic defect with this particular model, would Samsung own any responsibility for the repair? Has anybody had any success pursuing a repair/replacement along those lines? I originally thought the DLP was a great value in terms of price performance, but not if it dies after 3-4 years...

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check out this page
by jasonm1976 / August 24, 2009 4:56 PM PDT
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Made-To-Fail (Planned obsolescence)
by 4795266 / May 25, 2016 11:21 AM PDT

Planned Obsolescence = Made to Fail.

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