No beep even without a RAM

Yea, sorry, forgot to tell about the. Yes, I have removed the battery swapped the jumper, gave it some 15 minutes, then set back.

It's 25 cents here (we buy in bulk.) I find techs and others want us to test if it's the 25 cent battery. When pressed to do so we don't charge the 50 cents but add half hour to the bill. I can't seem to find out why a client would do this but hey, their call.

Not a battery professional, but yes swapped it with the one from that other system, besides the power meter shows 1.4 V on it.

Let's hear what battery this is. But the common CMOS battery is the CR2032 and I replace them if I read 3.0 or lower. It's a 25 cent part and not worth the return call if it's just on the edge.

1.4 is dead for a CR2032.

OK, I'll go get one tomorrow as it's late night in my zone, but how come both batteries work OK on that other computer? By the way, that other battery had just 0.5 V on it and still OK for it's MB.

If you use an acronym try to reveal what it is. In context I might guess motherboard but MB is usually megabytes.
https://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/315369-would-i-need-get-specific-cmos-battery.html calls out a CR2032 as well.

0.5V is a dead battert and since some boards do nothing with a dead CMOS battery and some work, you learn over time to never bother with this cheap part. It's replaced and you move to the next issue.

I have had new techs that balk at this practice but they learn over time it's such a cheap part that you can lose a client over a return so it's always something you take a measure and replace if low.

Yes MB was for motherboard. OK, I'll get one tomorrow and give it a try.

No worries about the skepticism. I run into it a lot. You might get the (big) hint I think nothing of this part as to replacement. We take a measure and pop in a new one without hesitation.

That's something learned as you do a lot of repairs.

What's sort of new to me is how many push back at this sub dollar part replacement. I can't quite grasp the reasons for folk pushing back on a part that we'll drop a dollar charge on the repair bill. It's just one of those items that is a mystery to me.

If you spend time on this part proving it's that part then the repair goes up by about 75 bucks. And to test this battery (the right way) is just annoying. We take the voltage reading and swap if 3.0 or less. We try to keep costs down for the clients but a few push back on this.

It remains a mystery why.