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General discussion

Newbie to dSLR: Taking the next step beyond point-and-shoot cameras

May 3, 2007 8:45AM PDT
Question:

I've been using a point-and-shoot digital camera for years and I'm ready to take the next step and move on to a digital SLR, but I really have no idea where to start. What I want in a dSLR is the ability to capture multiple shots quickly so I can capture an entire sequence of the subject's actions--which requires a good automatic focus and no shutter lag. In addition, I would also like to take landscape photos and close-up photos of flowers using manual zoom for close and distant subjects. I believe most SLRs will do this, right? What I'm looking for is something for a beginner--so it won't cost me an arm and leg (I have a $500 - $700 budget) and isn't too fancy, enabling me to experiment and see if I want to go any further in this new hobby. I need advice on what brands are recommended, and what to look for and avoid in a dSLR camera. What additional lenses are possibly needed? I know there is no one answer that will fit all, but I would like to see what you have to recommend for me. Thank you.

Submitted by: Stefan M.

Answer voted most helpful by our members

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A DIGITAL SLR.

Hi Stefan,

You are going to love shooting with an SLR. It really affords you a whole new world of freedom, control and creativity in shooting. In fact, it's really the difference between just taking a picture and "creating" a picture. Here?s my summary of what to look for:

--What to expect from an SLR vs. Digital compact

Digital SLR?s are best known for their greater offering of manual controls and the ability to change lenses. Couple this with near instant startup, improved performance in low light conditions, high speed RAW format shooting, and better dynamic range, and you can see why so many people are making the switch to SLRs.

However, there are a few trade-offs. Obviously, SLR?s are not nearly as portable as digital compacts and sometimes get left at home as a result. You will also have to get used to using an optical viewfinder instead of the ?live LCD preview? you usually find on compacts. Some people may find this more difficult. The exception to this is the Olympus E-410 digital SLR which has an MOS sensor which displays a live preview on the LCD.

Another important issue is that SLR?s have a shallower ?depth of field? than digital compacts. This refers to(the area in front of and behind the main focus point that remains sharp or in focus. Digital compacts have shorter focal lengths and as a result can perform good close-up (also known as macro) photography right out of the box. You would have to buy a separate macro lens for an SLR to perform macro photography. That is not to say that a digital compact will provide the same quality image as an SLR with a macro lens, but simply that you should factor in the cost of adding this lens. It will likely cost you a few hundred dollars by itself.

--What to look for in an SLR

If you plan on buying additional lenses and peripherals for you camera, choosing the right manufacturer will be important. Nikon and Canon generally lead the pack in terms of quality and innovation but there are some very good values out there from Pentax, Olympus and a few others as well.

Try to look beyond megapixels when shopping, instead focusing in on dynamic range (the ability to show detail in shadows and highlights in the same image). This is where Nikon and Canon have a bit of an edge. If you are shooting indoors a lot or in low light settings, Canon CMOS sensors generally produce less ?noise? than its competitors at high ISO settings.

Perhaps the biggest consideration for anyone buying their first SLR is how intuitive it feels when you use it. Because you?re just getting started with SLRs, you don?t want to have to pull out the manual every time you decide to adjust a few settings. Every camera has its own design and layout, and some are more easily navigated than others. In my opinion, Nikon leads the industry in this department.

Your budget is really at the low end of what you need to spend to get a decent digital SLR. The Nikon D40 is about the only kit that I can think of that I would recommend for under $600.00. For a little more, the Canon EOS 400D, Nikon D40x, Olympus E-410, and the Pentax K-10D are all worth considering.

--Some SLR?s worth Considering

Canon EOS 400D ? 10 megapixels, great overall picture quality, lowest noise at high ISO settings for this price range, an industry leader with a wide range of peripherals, great software bundle supplied with kit. Cons ? not a great lens, better to buy the body and then buy a better lens separately. Kit price ? approx. $850.00

Nikon D40 ? 6 megapixels, great overall image quality, surprisingly good build quality and lens for a camera that sells for around $560.00 USD, very responsive, perhaps the best user interface in this price range, an industry leader with a wide range of peripherals. Cons ? no internal AF motor means autofocus can only be achieved with newer AF-S and AF-I CPU lenses. Kit price ? approx. $560.00

Nikon D40X ? 10 megapixels, great overall image quality, surprisingly good build quality and lens, an industry leader with a wide range of peripherals, perhaps the user interface in this price range, very responsive. Cons ? no internal AF motor means autofocus can only be achieved with newer AF-S and AF-I CPU lenses. Kit price ? approx. $750.00.

Olympus E-410 - 10 megapixels, Live MOS Image Sensor give you full time Live-View on the LCD monitor, four-thirds aspect ratio may be preferred by some. Cons ? Live view auto focus can be slow . Kit price ? approx. $900.00.

Pentax K10D -10 megapixels, good build quality with dust and weather seals (great if you plan on using your camera in less than ideal weather conditions), in camera shake reduction, great value for money. Cons ? dynamic range and image sharpness not quite as good as industry leaders. Kit price ? approx. $900.00.

--Shooting in RAW mode

Digital SLRs offer the ability to shoot in RAW mode. RAW files keep the information from the CCD/CMOS sensor before processing and allow you to change certain settings (i.e. white balance, sharpening, exposure compensation etc.) at any time, even years later. This can be changed or un-done at any time without any quality loss. RAW files do take more space than JPEG files but with the low cost of storage these days, there is really no reason to shoot any other way. JPEG files can be created from RAW files at any time for sharing with others. If you do plan on shooting in RAW mode, you?ll want to get editing software that allows you to adjust these settings. Your camera may come with software to do this but if not, a good starter software would be Photoshop Elements with RAW plug-ins.

A few final Points

1. Never underestimate the value of a good lens ? they really do make a difference. If you plan on buying a lot of glass in the future, keep in mind that your lens collection may eventually be worth far more than your camera body. Choosing a mainstream company becomes more of an issue here because you will likely want to upgrade your camera body many times over the life of your lenses.

2. Get a camera that ?feels right? in your hands and has menus that feel intuitive to your way of thinking.

3. Factor in the cost of a spare battery, carrying case, and a reasonably large memory card ? these are a virtual must.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!

Submitted by: Screaminlizard

If you have any additional advice or recommendations for Stefan, let's hear them. Click on the "Reply" link to post. Please be detailed as possible in your answer. Thanks!

Discussion is locked

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Uh, what about Pentax?
May 12, 2007 3:12AM PDT

It's interesting, but not surprising, that so many of these recommendations are meant to steer you toward the purchase of either a Canon or Nikon DSLR, even if that recommendation would put you out of your stated price range. There have been few mentions of Pentax, and one of those was from a poster who somehow views Pentax's aborted merger with a lens filter manufacturer as a reason to avoid their products.

The fact is that Pentax provides a model which is specifically targeted for those of us in the market for an entry level DSLR: the 6 Megapixel K100D/K110D. I opted for the K110D which is identical to the K100D save the absence of the Petnax Shake Reduction technology. Price with the 15-55mm f4-5.6 kit lens was $400.00; $350.00 after Pentax rebate which has been extended to May 31. Buy another of Pentax's current model lenses and get another $50.00 rebate.

Why no one else has made this recommendation is a puzzle, but I suspect that most people just default to Canon and Nikon, or perhaps have a pointed anti-Pentax bias. Is the K100D any good? I'd say so, but don't take my word for it:

http://reviews.cnet.com/Pentax_K100D_body_with_18mm_55mm_lens_kit/4505-6501_7-31941974.html?tag=prod.txt.1

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/k100d.html

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxk100d/

Also, I recommend that you actually physically handle and evaluate it with specific attention to the build quality; something I suspect most buyers don't do. Compare the K100D to the already recommended, and considerably more expensive models from Nikon and Canon. You might be surprised by that comparison.

Good Luck.

O. Hunter

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I have the Panasonic Lumix
May 12, 2007 4:11AM PDT

Stefan, I too investigated dSLR when I was ready to move up from my Canon digi SureShot. I've used a 35mm SLR for years and wanted the versatility of an SLR in a digital format. I've had Canons almost exclusively, but their dSLR's simply didn't "feel" right in my hand. I checked out others too. One of the main drawbacks was not only the price of the camera, but getting all new lenses too! That gets expensive, frankly.

I discovered the Lumix quite by accident. But it incorporated one of the most important aspects (for me) of an SLR--longrange photography; and once I bought the camera, I had little else to buy. The built-in "anti-shake" works well--and yes I do use a tripod also. The 12x zoom on the Lumix is very sharp. Like any digital, it has an assortment of pre-determined shooting modes, or you can go totally manual if you want, including a lot of exposure compensation settings. It doesn't stop down as far as my SLR lenses, but depth of field is still good. I can fire off a lot of sequence shots quickly, too.

I slapped in a 2gig memory card, upped the resolution, and I'm ready to go shooting! I am very satisfied with the Lumix.
Don't know if this helps, but thought I'd contribute my 2 cents worth.
Happy shutterbugging!

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Different cameras fulfil photographer?s different needs
May 12, 2007 6:07AM PDT

I started with the Fuji finepix S602zoom - a wonderful camera which I still use, but it does have shutter lag.

Then I got the Nikon D70s DSLR (A kit with 2 lenses: Nikkor 18-20mmf/3.5G IF-ED DX lens and a 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF Zoom-Nikkor lens)

At first I found the change very frustrating because I was used to seeing the image in the viewfinder immediately after I had taken it and now I had to take my eye from the viewfinder and put on my glasses to see the image on the screen! Also, it was much harder to cature the image I wanted as I had done in the past. With my Fugi, what I adjusted in my viewfinder was what I got, but with the Nikon everything was either too dark or too light.

I have at last mastered it to some extent but what I find wonderful about the DSLR is the amazing dynamic range within the images and far more photographs can be rescued in the editing stage than could be with the Fugi. I think that for images that are for the most part fine as they come out of the camera the "prosumer" cameras are best and if you are taking many images in a hurry and need to zoom in and out without changing lenses they are invaluable, but for portrait shots and landscapes, the DSLR is wonderful.

I also bought the Panasonic Lumix DMC - FZ30 because of it's extra zoom but I find it much more grainy than the Fugi and it hunts at full zoom which can be very frustrating. However with my three cameras I can capture totally different images of the same view all with a different "mood" and colour spectrum!

The Fugi is especially good at grabbing shots from a moving vehicle so I always travel with it on my lap, and my husband doesn't even have to stop the car!

In conclusion, it depends what sort of a photographer you are. DSLRs take a much longer learning curve and the images need a lot of editing to get them perfect and prosumers are great for fast work, producing images that don't need that much editing but which lack the dynamic range of the DSLRs.

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Great replies & many I agree with completely as a new owner!
May 12, 2007 6:32AM PDT

For your budget, the Canon is excellent but for the same reasons already mentioned, the Nikon fits better in my larger hands. And if the camera doesn't fit in your hands, it's as good as worthless.

Regarding frames per second, there's not a chance you will get over 3 FPS for under $1000. And NOTHING will even do that unless you get good fast media to write to. Buy cheapo memory cards and you will be limited to a much slower write speed. I don't know where someone got 5 or 6 FPS but I researched it a lot and there's just nothing out there but the expensive professional cameras well out of your price range. But take heart: I'm capturing hummingbirds in flight (http://files.tagworld.com/7b014a6a9f3f40e7b0f8b915f23db09e.jpeg) and dragonflies buzzing by (http://files.tagworld.com/384b103af88d414b84284e7517354e82.jpeg) with 2.2 frames per second with my Nikon D80 and a slow memory card. Timing and practicing "aim and focus" on EVERYTHING that moves got me fast enough to catch anything I want to catch, including butterflies in flight.

I'd also like to suggest you buy from Ritz or one of their family of stores. One of the major selling points for me going there was the awesome service agreements and the FREE CLASSES. In just one class, you can learn a TON about photography and a good teacher will be able to answer your questions about your camera as well. I studied digital photography about a year before buy my D80 and learned more in two hours than two books combined. LOL! (No, I don't work for Ritz or any camera store; I shopped stores as well.)

My Nikon does have a major dust problem and I really take care of it. But just opening the body and changing lenses gets dust everywhere and cleaning it out is almost impossible. Canon has a huge advantage there. I've taken to just marking where the dust is and editing it out in the processing stage - a poor man's work-around and it sucks royally.

The one thing I didn't read (and I'm sorry but I didn't read all 100 comments/replies! DAMN!!!!) is that you'll be spending a ton more than the camera on lenses for macro (extreme close-up) photography using DSLR. This disturbed me greatly since I fell in love with macro using cheapo cameras and my "pocket rocket" Olympus IR-500. So whatever you do, KEEP YOUR CHEAPO CAMERAS! If not for that foresight, I'm be out another $300 for DSLR macro!! If you get a good intermediate zoom lens for your DSLR tho, you can reasonably hold it steady enough for what appears to be extreme close-ups and you can also hold it steady using a tripod. Once again, the Canon has the advantage there as they have less expensive lenses with anti-shake build-in. At 50 years old, anti-shake (or a firm tripod) is...uh, vital for me with telephoto lenses. LMAO!

Finally, whatever feels right for you is right for you. You want to take photos. If you hate your camera or even don't feel it's an extension of your eyes and hands, it's worthless at any price. I got Nikon, some get Canon, and some get at least 10 other good to great brands. If you're looking for a deal, SHOP. If you're looking for expandability in lenses, SHOP. If you're looking for fun, DSLR will rock your world - HARD!

Best of luck!

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HELP needed to select dSLR Macro camera!
May 12, 2007 9:59AM PDT

Read through some of the replies here as I am interested to go from my point and shoot Sony P-10 to a dSLR.

Being a dentist, I take a lot of in-the-mouth shots so the macro option is a must for me. I was wondering anyone could recommend me a dSLR in the $1000 range or so that has these features:

1) a good macro shot option
2) a ring flash
3) automatic shake protection as I can't use a tripod

The ones that the dental magazines recommend are the Canon EOS20D, Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT and Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro. These cameras are close the $3000!! I was hoping someone can provide a better alternative.

Cheers and thanks in advance!

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Sorry but....
May 12, 2007 10:11AM PDT

...I'd go with the highest end of point and shoot cameras. Some offer complete manual controls for all situations and all offer macro. I don't think I'd feel comfortable with a dentist holding a 3 pound, HUGE (from a patient's perspective) DSLR camera over my face - even if he was an ace photographer. And I go to the dentist for an ace dentist, not an ace photographer. Sir, you'd scare the ever-loving crap out of me with my face under a DSLR!

Besides, a DSLR is only as good as the lens for macro. And a good macro lens costs a LOT more than the camera. It's also a lot longer so you'd either have to put the patient as low as the chair would go (if it can go that low) and stand over him/her with something that will look like instant death if it falls or do zoom without being able to get close enough for tiny locations in the back of a small mouth.

Someone else may see something I don't see but I doubt it. I think you started off with the best tool for the job.

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stick with hi end non-slr
May 12, 2007 6:41AM PDT

Having gone thru rebel, nikon 70, canon20(5 fps) and currently sony alpha1000(too slow in fps-good in image stab) and use zooms from 24-85 canon and 70-300(canon and sony) for sports. The new canon digital non-slr looks good. It is supposed to have hs video which is what I want for grandsons sports and image stabilization(which I need).
It may not be in the 10Mpixel range but with the hs video, you will be able to capture the moment.

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Newbie to dSLR: Taking the next step beyond point-and-shoot
May 12, 2007 2:48PM PDT

Hi...

The short answer is: "If you have to ask about dSLR cameras, I would suggest you stay away from them and continue with the SLR-like (or point and shoot) digital cameras."

One additional thing...if you don't take 75-100 pics per week (every week) normally and 200-300 pics on special days, then stay away from dSLR cameras! Of course, most amateur photographers get these dSLR camera systems as a 'status symbol', as in "see what I can buy".

I suggest you expand your existing camera's accessories rather than getting a new dSLR!

Ciao...JJ

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New to DSLRs
May 14, 2007 4:10AM PDT

""The short answer is: "If you have to ask about dSLR cameras, I would suggest you stay away from them and continue with the SLR-like (or point and shoot) digital cameras."""
hmmmmmmmmmm I suppose it's better to stay in the dark that to ask for a light???????????

Overall, sometimes it is better to explore all the options with whatever camera you own. I certainly have had many folks tell me I should not be using a point and shoot and upgrade to a dSLR. Well I've been quite satisfied with my 'high end' point and shoot, it's taken me over a year to explore all the options and add accessory lenses to exapnd the camera's optical reange from 26mm - 550mm (one .7x wide angel and 0n 1.4x zoom). I recently did a cost comparison - it woul cost me nearly double what I have spent to obtain all the features I currently use if replacing with as dSLR.
I am definetly not interested in being a professional photographer - an avid hobyist suits me just fine.

Pete

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Camera - for what?
May 12, 2007 7:42PM PDT

Dear Stefan,
you have already received lots of good advice, but there's one I haven't found among the many letters:
Choose a camera that's right for what you are going to photograph.
Sports & wildlife? In that case, you cannot tolerate a long shutter delay. Test cameras you like - and don't throw away the old film-SLR if milliseconds are the difference between success and failure. Also, check the delay between exposures & video.
Travel? A digital SLR is bulky and heavy, you'll hate it before you're back from your first big trip.
Portraits and nature? Check that it works nicely on a tripod. Shutter delay may not be a problem. Pluses for big screen and lots of bytes. No real reason to pick the dSLR.
Available light photography? Here the dSLR has an advantage - wide-opening lenses allow lower ISO, better image quality at low light.
Generally, there are many excellent cameras on the market. If you don't need long focal lengths, get a model that's compact but not so small that it's fiddly to use. If you're going to take it with you when biking, hiking, mountain climbing, etc, look for something that could have been designed for Army use - well sealed, no controls that can easily be broken, etc.
With a fixed wide-range "pretend-SLR" zoom camera, you get most of the advantages of an SLR and few of the disadvantages. Zooms now range to 400 mm and over, and some have accessories to increase wide-angle coverage.
Stefan, as so many people have told you already, you'll probably be happier with a non-SLR, and that will allow you to buy several useful things without exceeding your budget. Maybe a good tripod, a better printer, photo-related stuff for your computer. Again, it's a matter of the intended use...
Best of luck,
Lars

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Newbie to dSLR: Taking the next step beyond point-and-shoot
May 12, 2007 11:07PM PDT

Many good Point-And-Shoot camera have Continuous (Burst) Shooting to enable you to take a big burst of pictures to cover the whole sequence of an interesting and important action event. For example in Canon PowerShot S2 IS camera and in Continuous (Burst) Shooting, it will take 1.5 shots per second or 2.4 shots per second and keep going this way until either (a) you release the shutter button, or (b) the entire memory card is filled up with the big burst of action photos. The camera has a button on the top for you to press to activate very quickly the Continuous (Burst) Shooting.

Sing

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Recognize the step you are taking
May 13, 2007 1:43AM PDT

At least as important as the type of camera you buy is an honest self-appraisal of what you intend to do by way of image-making. Point-and-shoot cameras are made for precisely that: To allow Uncle Purvis to grab a few pictures of Aunt Minnie's birthday party or to let Tripp and Bitsy bring home pictures from their cruise. The fact that the operating systems of point-and-shoots allows the inclusion of lots of ginchy "features" does not alter this basic truth. Nor does the bleating of those who claim that they routinely make gallery-quality prints from images captured by their $175 Cheeze-O-Matic 307-J with 28X digital zoom and 13 quintillion megapixels.

Moving to a DSLR enables you to transition from snapping Baby Pauline's Baptism Party to real image-making. Alas, the majority of people who buy DSLRs do so more for self-image than for digital image. I'm a professional photographer and I can tell you that not one in one thousand self-proclaimed "serious" amateur photographers uses even 25% of the capability of his or her expensive DSLR. Heck, even a dedicated and hard-working pro seldom uses even half of what the camera will do.

But it isn't the pro vs amateur distinction that matters. There are many, many amateurs out there who beat the pros hands down on image quality...both technical and compositional. What matters is your commitment to the endless hours of practice and hard work that go into developing serious camera skills. If you are willing to commit to that level of dedication then go for a good DSLR. If not, pick a nice point-and-shoot and be happy with it.

Numerous other responders have provided excellent advice about brands and lenses and features. I will recap very briefly.

+ There are two brands to consider: Nikon and Canon. Period. Try them out and choose the one that seems best to you. All the high-cost advertising in the world will not change the fact that either of those brands will take better images than their owners.
+ Forget the hybrid mutants that look like DSLRs but have fixed lenses. They offer nothing of genuine significance that you cannot get in a smaller, more convenient package. Except bragging rights, maybe.
+ Buy lenses from the body manufacturer. That is not to say that there are not decent 3rd party lenses out there but, overall, you are far better off to spend a few more bucks and get the lenses that were designed specifically for the body you choose.
+ Base your selection more on ergonomics than on esoteric statistics or exotic features. I assure you that you will NEVER see the difference between a 7-segment autofocusing sensor and one with 28 segments...or 280 segments.
+ Ignore Gee-Whiz numbers. Remember that when you look at a fine image you are seeing the skill of the photographer much more than the capability of the camera. Read Ken Lockwell (www.kenrockwell.com) in this regard.
+ As the cabbie said when asked how to get to Carnegie Hall, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

And have fun. That's the most important part.

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Money doesn't buy images. And the camera's only the start.
May 13, 2007 6:43PM PDT

Hi Stefan:

Haven't time to read through all the posts but here's my response:

1) A digital camera is a computer with a lens attached. Lousy lens = lousy images, regardless of number of megapixels. An 8MP performance is fine.

2) No amount of money buys good images. A computer-with-a-lens-attached may be the most expensive and technologically best-specced model in the world but if the owner takes crap pictures, then crap pictures is all it will yield.


3) A computer-with-a-lens produces a digital output. Digital outputs are the start, not the end, of the imaging process. Digicam users who can't be bothered to invest in and learn about post-processing software like Photoshop are only using half of the tools available to maximise the joy and effectiveness of digital photography. Reliance on in-camera processing is plain silly.

4) High quality dSLRs are great for those who want to invest the equivalent of an expensive overseas holiday in their purchase and from that platform then spend more and more on further lenses. Slightly lesser quality pseudo-dSLRs are great for those who want to invest in an expensive overseas holiday and take the camera along with them to record it -- and still have enough money left over to buy a decent post-processing suite of software.

5) These slightly lesser quality pseudo-dSLRs are also great for those who realise there's no point in being able to shoot and post-process large images if they then can't be printed any bigger than A4.

6) These slightly lesser quality pseudo-dSLRs are also great for those who realise that the printed pictures they take will be framed and hung on walls to be viewed by family members, relatives and other visitors, none of whom will arrive with a magnifying glass in order to pore over every pixel.

I've had both Canon and Nikon dSLRs and they were fine. I started taking pictures with a Russian-made Zenit 35mm in 1967 so in the past 40 years have graduated from black-and-white prints for the family album to colour slides to digital images for use as magazine covers or magazine spreads in publications both in the UK and overseas.

I've since sold my dSLR kits because of the weight and inconvenience and for the past year have used a digital camera with a built-in image stabilisation system which at full retail cost less than a third of the price Canon charge for just one ancillary lens with image stabilisation.

The camera is the Konica-Minolta (as was) A200. It was purchased for $250 second hand on eBay. As was my $250 Epson A3 colour printer. I also paid $100 for the now obsolete Photoshop 7.

The results of this $600 combination are not as good as those from the Nikon and Canon dSLRs when I come to run a glass over side-by-side examples of dSLR and pseudo-dSLR images.

But as noted, I don't have family members, relatives or friends who microscopically inspect the framed images in our home. And I've been left with sufficient money to indulge in photography for the sheer joy of it, to go off on repeated overseas trips with my humble A200 (which also shoots perfectly watchable home video, too) and a tripod...

And return with images which have captured the moment.

Isn't that what photography is all about???

Good luck, Stefan.

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And that's the bottom line...
May 13, 2007 11:37PM PDT

...because a professional photographer said so.

A "professional photographer" wrote:

"There are two brands to consider: Nikon and Canon. Period. Try them out and choose the one that seems best to you. All the high-cost advertising in the world will not change the fact that either of those brands will take better images than their owners."

Declarative, unqualified statements followed by a rhetorical "period" often translate as: "I can provide no rational basis for why I believe this, but if I make myself seem hyper-confident, I'll discourage anyone from making me back-up the statement." These statements are often preceded by a claim that this person is an authority on the overarching topic.

Of all manufacturers of cameras, Canon is outdone in "high-cost advertising" only by Sony. Sony is currently running a campaign for a point-and-shoot model with "face detection" (You know the one: Dad is not a horse's rear end). There's a Canon television commercial that's been running consistently for months: something about "Why we love football." Nikon has an ongoing "Legends Behind the Lens" campaign which appears as a menu selection on Tivo DVRs. In contrast, I can't remember the last time I saw an Olympus or Pentax campaign. So if a "professional photographer" makes a claim that ONLY two manufacturers make worthy DSLR cameras, and those two happen to be among the three who do expensive, wide-reach marketing, I'd have reason to suspect that this "professional" is himself under the influence of said marketing.

It very well may be the case that Canon and Nikon make the best professional equipment: although I wonder what Sigma users would have to say about that; but Sigma doesn't do "high-cost advertising," so, amazingly enough, Sigma using professionals are a relative few. Because a company produces superior professional grade equipment, it does not necessarily follow that its consumer-level products are wholly superior to comparable products from other manufacturers.

Based upon the dozens of comprehensive reviews that I read written by knowledgeable "professional photographers," and the sample photography which accompanied those reviews, there are indeed worthy contenders on the market that do not bear Canon or Nikon branding.

Empty rhetoric, no matter how seemingly authoritative is its source, is still just empty rhetoric.

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Oh gosh...
May 14, 2007 7:20AM PDT

...I'm stinging from that rebuke, you betcha.

Again. Two brands to consider in DSLRs: Nikon and Canon.

That is hardly empty rhetoric, being the opinion shared by the overwhelming majority of both advanced amateurs and working professionals.

One thing we've established for sure, though: My critic doesn't own either one.

And Sigma? Well....if you don't use it much it might not actually fall off the camera in pieces. Apart from that....

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9 Out of 10 Professional Photograhers agree...
May 14, 2007 9:17AM PDT

...so just stop thinking for yourself.

Remember, the respondent is a self proclaimed "professional" who has provided no support for his claims. Operative fallacy: Appeal to Authority.

"Again. Two brands to consider in DSLRs: Nikon and Canon."

Re-presentation of previously stated idea without provision of supporting information.

"That is hardly empty rhetoric, being the opinion shared by the overwhelming majority of both advanced amateurs and working professionals."

A novice photographer on a tight budget, like the one whose questions have served as the basis for this thread, might have a different set of priorities than does the "overwhelming majority of advanced amateurs and professionals."

My respondent's believes that his unsupported claims simply couldn't be rhetoric because the "overwhelming majority" agree with him. Operative fallacy: Appeal to Popularity (Incidentally my respondent is absolutely correct about the near unanimity of thought regarding the alleged superiority of Canon and Nikon. Where he and the rest of the overwhelming majority fail is in articulating factual information which would establish this purported superiority).

"One thing we've established for sure, though: My critic doesn't own either one."

A fact about which I have already stated, proudly I might add, in this forum. The irony is that before making my purchase, I specifically sought out the opinions and the evaluations of professionals with a view toward understanding why I should just assume the superiority of Canon and Nikon. Most of what I got for my effort is a bunch of specious claims and unending examples of the aforementioned fallacious logic; the remainder was a clutch of unbiased and largely favorable reviews for the products of competing manufacturers, one of which I bought. Next time around, I might buy either a Canon or Nikon, but I will do so because either of those manufacturers builds the camera which best serves my needs within an achievable price range.

"And Sigma? Well....if you don't use it much it might not actually fall off the camera in pieces. Apart from that...."

Well, this is at least a direct claim about the build quality of Sigma products. I have no idea if it's true, but given the respondent's penchant for rhetoric, I can't give the claim much weight.

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It's all in the glass....
May 14, 2007 12:57AM PDT

Personally, I love my Nikon, but to be fair, I was seriously considering the Canon 30D before I purchased. Both camera's are good camera's, both offer great image quality. For me, though, the Nikon had more of the controls within finger reach and the body of the camera felt more substantial to me. Much of your choice will come down to budget and personal preference.

There are many things to consider when moving to DSLR's. You have already done most of them. You have identified what you plan to use the camera for. Everything from lanscapes to macro to multi frames per second. That's a wide range of needs which can all be answered by a DSLR and a variety of lenses.

I agree with many of the others who have posted that you budget may be low. But that's the beauty of SLR's. You can add on as your budget permits. Start with what you will be shooting most - if that's lanscapes, focus on that will meet most of your needs. I caution against purchasing the cheaper lenses - you typically get what you pay for. (see my notes in the Sports Section below)

It's all in the Glass....
There is little difference between the camera bodies any more, the sensors in the Canon and Nikon lines are very good (Canon may be a little better - but I'll not admit that to my Canon friends!). So why is the glass so important? If the sensors are about the same, then what will make the difference in your photo's is the quality of the glass you use to feed the image to the sensor.

Portraits:
An overall good lens, in my opinion is an 18-70mm or 28-70mm or a fixes 85mm.

Lanscapes:
Same as above or even the 18-200mm (fits many needs).

Telephoto:
Depended on the need/use Canon make a great 100-400 and Nikon a 80-400mm. Great for wildlife.

Sports:
I shoot gymnastics (indoors poorly lit, no flash photography permitted), so a low F and fast accurate focus is a must. I use a Nikon 70-200 IF-ED VR f/2.8 lens. Also, the Tamaron 17-50 f/2.8 DXii. The Tamaron does well in full light but is "off slightly" in low light situations and does not have a manual/auto focus capability. With manual/auto focus, the camera's eye will do it's best to automatically focus, but you can adjust (manually) based on what you want to focus on.

DSLR's and Megapixles:
Unless you need to significantly crop photo's or print really large images, don't get hung up on megapixels.

Final Comments:
If you have a friend who already has a digital SLR ask them how they like it. See if they will let you "borrow" their's for a day/hour or something. Use the internet to research the various cameras - many site's provide side by side comaprisions of image quality, durability, features, etc.

You can get a Nikon with the 18-200 lens which handles most of the everyday stuff you mentioned. You can purchase "Tubes" to focus at macro levels if need be. For my Canon friends, the Rebel XT is also an awesome camera.

Hope this helps!
Terry

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It's all in the glass....
May 14, 2007 1:11AM PDT

What nikon camera are you using?

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D200
May 14, 2007 1:36AM PDT

Sorry for leaving that out - I shoot with a Nikon D200.

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Quality Point and Shoot digital Cameras.....
May 15, 2007 4:08AM PDT

In my previous post I focused on Canon & Nikon DSLR's - simply because these are the two that I was considering. There are other DSLR out there that may or may not be as good/bad as the Nikon and/or Canon.

This post is to talk about some of the "Point & Shoot" digital camera's. The last point & shoot I purchased was the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ30. This is also a great camera with awesome features. For one it has a 12x optical zoom (35 - 420 mm equiv) an F2.8 - F11; and 8 megapixels. This is a powerful camera that can accomodate many of the items you mentioned. If you are shooting outdoor, you'll have no problem stopping action and you'll also get 2fps (max). You also get video (if this is important to you) and iso of 80-400. I only replaced this camera because for gymnastics this was not a good match - but that's the only reason.

This is a great camera that I still carry with me because it is very powerful. Todays price is in the neighborhood of: $350.00. More information can be found on Panasonics latest version of this camera at: http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/vModelDetail?storeId=15001&catalogId=13401&itemId=106540&catGroupId=24999&modelNo=DMC-FZ8K&surfModel=DMC-FZ8K&cacheProgram=11002&cachePartner=7000000000000005702

Check out http://www.dpreview.com/ for more information on various camera's. Sony makes some excellent Point & Shoot Digitals as well.

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FROM OILMANOWEN
May 18, 2007 9:47PM PDT

HI
MY RECCOMENDATION TO YOU WOULD BE THE NIKON D80 IT IS CAPABLE OF ALL YOU HAVE ASKED.NO SHUTTER LAG, 10 MEGAPIXAL FOR OUTSTANDING PHOTOGRAPHS.MULTIPLE SHOTS UP TO 5 FRAMES PER SECOND.......
I OWN THIS CAMERA PLUS MULTIPLE NIKON LENSES SO I KNOW FROM WHERE I SPEAK...........YOU CAN GO ON AMAZON AND PURCHASE THIS FINE CAMERA WITH A LENS PACKAGE TO GET YOU STARTED......AND FROM THERE ITS UP TO YOU.........ENJOY YOUR HOBBY......

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You might get lucky
May 26, 2007 3:02AM PDT

I understand budgets - boy, do I understand budgets. So ... you might be able to find a Canon 20D somewhere and it is a wonderful camera! Yes, Canon has newer versions of the camera but the 20D is a great way to start in Digital SLR. And, since it's one of the "older" cameras, you might get a good deal!

I'm not going to repeat info in the previous responses, but you just can't go wrong with this camera. Fast, flexible, clear shots ... and you have so many lenses from which to choose that you can do anything you want with this camera.

Before everyone jumps on me ... yes, I know that there are newer Canon cameras ... but the 20D is still used by lots and lots of pros. Why spend more money if you don't have to?

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Good reading
May 26, 2007 11:05AM PDT

congrats on going digital
there is an old book that will really help you learn photography
the info on it is:

PHOTOGRAPHY
By Barbara Upton and John Upton
Second Edition
Published by Little,Brown and Company

this a predigital book but it will help you learn about cameras
and photography like a pro
good luck

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Another camera
May 26, 2007 10:47PM PDT

The Sony (read Minolta) A100. This camera is within the price range of the others mentioned, has some very nice features and works with Minolta lesnses.

The reason I put "read Minolta" is because Sony bought camera features from Knonica Minolta. This is a new camera to the dSLR matket, but all the inards are from an industry leader. We still have a Minolta SLR that dates back to the 1970's.

AF, Dust removal CCD, 2.5 LCD, up to ISO 1600, apature controls, and several others. The CNET review on the Sony Alpha 100 dSLR is very helpful.

The other cameras listed in the "approved" response are also reviewd in CNET's hardware section, all well done. They should help greatly when matching features and deciding on what you want.

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Finally I can use my Maxxum lens
May 28, 2007 6:37AM PDT

I used a Minolta 7000 (I think) before picking up the Oly SP 500UZ and will still break it out at times. Boy am I jazzed to find out there is now a dSLR out there to work with what I already have.

As to the discussion about dSLR and the almost SLR types, I must add that for action photos there is no comparison. My Oly shuts the view finder down while recording just like it does with the main screen rendering following the action useless compounding the painfully apparent shutter lag. I have been wanting to go dSLR for awhile, but have been hanging back to see what develops, because to me, once you get used to a SLR it is hard to do without. As an earlier poster in this thread stated there is not one camera that has it all and why the manufacturers can't get it all in one package I do not understand.

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That's what the 'R' in 'SLR' is all about
May 29, 2007 12:17AM PDT

SLR stands for Single Lens Reflex where 'Reflex' refers to the mirror that allows you to see through the same lens that the film 'sees' through. That freeze-up when you take a snapshot is your camera simulating that mirror flipping out of the way so that the shutter can expose the film. This works well on a camcorder because it reminds you that the image will be frozen on the recording but for a still camera it's almost as stupid as leaving the mirror in there and making it a TRUE SLR.

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digital SLR camera
Dec 21, 2007 1:42AM PST

Like you I have had several point and shoot digital cameras but earlier this year I bought a Nikon D40- a super camera with rechangeable lens- I can use my old SLR lens with it, It does close up, wide angle fast shutter speed and costs in the region of