WiFi on a desktop can be awful as most desktop have a big metal box that can get in the way. WiFi as you know can be interfered with. I can't tell if you tried the USB WiFi to the rear port (more power there on most desktops) and learned that 5GHz does not mean better or longer range connections.
That is, a poor client (poorer due to many service calls) would get fixed up then they would read something about 5GHz, change settings and tank the connection. Nothing like 120 buck trip charges to bring home the message that 2.4GHz is fine.
Ok guys, probably like many, I was drawn here with a problem I can't fix. I consider myself competent when it comes to all things IT and this one has got me waving the polka dot flag of confusion and seeking help. I have been all over the internet looking for posts with similar issues but can't find any. Now I am hoping an IT guru has seen this before or can help me fix it.
My gaming computer runs windows 7 Home Premium x64. It has a linksys AE6000 USB wireless adapter. The router in question is a DSL/Broadband ATT Uverse, Dual Band capable.
The issue is that I cannot get a reliable connection. When my computer is on, I have 4-5 bars of signal, the network/sharing center reads as connecting to the internet, but I have frequent disconnects, getting the 'no DNS' 'resolving host' 'connection reset' 'website took too long to respond' errors. These all happen while my network and sharing center happily informs me I am connected to the internet with full bars.
The kicker is that the connection is fine closer to the router and via ethernet but having forced the 5GHZ connection, I should still be well within reach.
Kicker #2 is that laptops and other devices work well enough in the same room as the desktop. Guests staying here in the past have reported no connection issues at all.
When my desktop was on the far side of the wall I could not even connect. I would have 2-3 bars, try to connect and get an immediate 'failed to connect' error. This has been happening across 3 different adapters. The first was an off brand I'd never heard of so I wrote it off as crap. The second was a Belkin N300 which I then read online, could be crap as a Belkin in general. This is now happening with the third adapter, a Linksys AE6000 model, rated on the box as good up to N150+AC430 (not sure what that refers to, will google), "ultimate range," dual band capable, and USB 2.0.
Now that it is where I have it now. I can get internet more, but still have all those random errors mentioned above. I also start having issues with the internet when I use my laptop and cell phone for wifi in that spot but have no idea what could be causing interference, as, from the bed 5-6' away. These devices work fine.
I have tried restarting the router, modem, computer, and adapter with no effect. I have gone into adapter properties to make sure it is picking the 5 ghz signal, as before it wasn't. I have no other place for my computer and am befuddled as to what the problem could be.
This computer was actually offline for several months as we had gotten rid of our internet, but moved down south and have it again. When I was first trying to get this resolved. I wasn't sure if the drivers were updated so I was actually updating them with my laptop, and moving the driver files over and manually replacing them. I am worried this might have caused it, but not sure what driver its supposed to have and windows tells me mine is up to date.
All of this is on the second floor with just bedrooms, the only device between my computer and LoS to router is another gaming computer, my brothers in the next room over. As far as I know, he uses the 2 ghz band, but would two computers on the 5 ghz band cause this anyway?
The only other weird thing about his computer is that it is somehow tied directly to a light switch. I think just an outlet that gets power when a switch is flipped on but he has the compy on all the time anyway and I am not sure it being on that type of outlet would make a difference than if it were plugged into an outlet wired to the breaker box with no switches determining flow of current.
So I know this is really weird, or maybe its not and I am missing something obvious. I am really hoping thats the case as I would love to put this behind me. Dueling with the issue off and on for months has dampened the thrill of problem solving for me lol
Let me know what other information you need. I tried to be as detailed as possible and if you need clarification, just ask. Sometimes my thought process is a little disorganized lol
Save me CNET superheros!!!!!