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General discussion

Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling fixed!

May 18, 2007 12:44PM PDT

Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.

Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn?t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn?t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it?s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I?m a trusting soul, but let?s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, ?We don?t know what it could be, good luck with that?. Now my wife knows why I don?t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it?s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don?t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn?t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn?t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn?t start! That was the point when my wife asked, ?How?s it going?? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, ?what the ----?? That?s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, ?Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.? DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4? long, factory screws are 1/2? long Torx head), and she?s been running great ever since.
Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8?-1/4? (don?t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems ? what will and what won?t cause the problem. Good luck.
As a side note, if you want to see a service manager?s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It?s a glorious sight.

Moderator Note: This thread will popular has grown too unwieldy.
Please make a new post all your own from now on.
Closed as of March 23, 2018.

Post was last edited on March 23, 2018 5:04 PM PDT

Discussion is locked

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Crank Pos. Sensor
Feb 3, 2010 8:01AM PST

Thanks for the info.

Just talked to mechanic and he says the Crank Pos. Sensor looks fine. He cleaned out the IAC motor 3 weeks ago and worked for a little while. He is going to put in a new one in the morning and test it to see if it has better results. I have only had stalling issues at stops and never at highway speeds like others with PCM issues.

Thanks again.

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PCM
Mar 19, 2008 7:41AM PDT

I located the PCM with the Grey, White, and Black connectors. Also the 2 screws underneath. However I brought out my multimeter and saw that the PCM was not grounded. I should be right? So I grounded and saw with the multimeter that it was consistently drawing power. This shouldn't me so, when the engine is off right? Help, please.

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Dan and to all
Mar 19, 2008 11:42PM PDT

Can't help, not a mechanic.

Suggest to reply with question to "Askyward" post #159, Dated 3/15/08 3:56 PM, or the first guy who originally started this post of this forum... there are a couple of people here, who appears knowledgeable about electronics.... or contact a mechanic you trust.

Good luck.

To all others... I'm not a mechanic and are like you...Ignorant.
Note: If you go my route, it cost me 6 months of aggravation and replacing almost everything... 1800.00 to fix it...

Please read all post, reply to others here with automotive experience to answer direct questions, be sure to check the "trace box" before sending inquiry.

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PCM
Mar 20, 2008 5:43AM PDT

YEAH DUDE RETIRED MECH HERE. ABOUT THE PCM .... IT SHOULDN'T BE GROUNDED AT ANY TIME. THIS THREAD IS ALL ABOUT THIS THING NOT BEING GROUNDED. IFFN U LOOK BEHIND THE PCM IT IS MOUNTED ON A BRACKET WELDED TO THE FIREWALL. IN THE BRACKET ARE SOME (3) PLASTIC THREADED GROMMETS WHICH INSULATE THE PCM FROM GROUND. THE MAIN PROBLEM i FOUND IS AT LEAST ONE BOLT IS TOO LONG AND GOES THRU THE GROMMET AND TOUCHES THE FIREWALL WHERE IT IS FORMED/RAISED UP FOR REINFORCED STRENGTH. EVENTUALLY THIS SCREW WEARS THRU THE PAINT AND GROUNDS THE PCM. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE GROUND EFFECT CAUSEES POWER FLUCTUATIONS INSIDE THE CIRCUITRY OF THE PCM CAUSING SPORATIC AND UNPREDICTABLE MISREADINGS AND CALCULATIONS BY THE PROCESSER. THIS CAUSES SHUTDOWN AND FALSE CODES THAT ARE VIRTUALLY UNTRACEBLE EXCEPT BACK TO TO THE PROCESSER. IT CAN THROW OFF THE GUAGE READINGS AND CAUSE MALFUNCCTIONING THEFT ALARMS AND CHARGING PROBLEMS AND MANY PEOPLE TO YANK HAIR AND CUSS LIKE OLD SEA DOGS. I KNOW, I'M ONE. IF UR PROCESSER (PCM) IS BEING GROUNDED BY THE SCREWS THEN U TAKE THEM OUT AND GROUND IT; IT SHOULD ACT JUST LIKE BEFORE UY STARTED WORKING ON THE PROBLEM. THE FIX IS TO SECURE THE PCM IN PLACE WITHOUT LETTING IT TOUCH ANY GROUOND... MOST LIKELY CUTTING OFF THE SCREWS TO JUST LONG ENOUGH TO GO INTO THE GROMMETS AND NOT TOUCH THE FIREWALL. JUST LEAVING SOME OF THE SCREWS OUT WON'T WORK BECAUSE THE PCM WILL SHIFT AND GROUND AND THEN UR BACK TO SQUARE ONE. THIS PROCESSOR IS THE MOST SENSITVE I'VE SEEN IN TWENTY YEARS THAT THEY HAVE BEEN AROOUND. WHEN WORKING ON IT THINK SPACE SHUTTLE.... AND THEY ARE RETIREING THOSE. MY FIX WAS THREE LAYERS OF PLASTIC JUG (ANTIFREEZE)PLACED BETWEEN THE BRACKET AND THE PCM; THEN USED WIRE TIES TO SECURE IT IN PLACE AT THE THREE POINTS. I'M STILL DIGGINDEEP ON MINE. I BELIEVE THERE OTHER ISSUES ON HTIS VEHICLE THAT COMPOUND DIFFICULTY FOR DIAGNOSTICS NOT THERE YET THO STILL WORKIN THU IT. HOPE THIS HELPS.

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PCM Grounding
Mar 20, 2008 6:55AM PDT

Not really sure about the case to firewall (see post 170).
I can tell you that nearly every sensor that feeds the PCM has a 5 volt wire (White/black) and a sensor ground (Black/Lt Blue). Additionally, the PCM sends two wires to the engine ground. They come from pin 31& 32 on the Black Plug and you can see them attached to the engine grounding point just forward of the ignition coil. This point also has a heavy battery cable and one other set of wires. These two PCM ground wires are 14GA Black and Tan. So I am certain the circuit board is grounded. Is the case???? not sure.

d.
96 GCL 4.0L I6

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PCM GROUNDING
Mar 20, 2008 7:27AM PDT

U R CORRECT THOSE WIRES ARE GROUNDS AND THEY ARE CONTROL GROUNDS GOING TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD. HOWEVER THERE IS MORE GOING ON IT THERE THAN THE CIRCUIT BOARD. THE CASE IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE GROUNDED AS FAR AS I CAN TELL. I HAVEN'T TALKED TO ANY CHRYSLER ENGINEERS YET BUT BOY WHEN I "GETAHOLDAONE" DONTCHAKNOW I'LL BE SURE TO ASK HIM. CAN'T REMEMBER THE GUYS THREAD OR NAME BUT IF U READ BACK THRU THERE IS A POST FROIM AN AIRPLANE MECHANIC AND HE CONFIRMED WHAT I WAS NEARLY AT AND STARTING TO LOOOK AT. PROBABLY SAVED ME SEVERAL HOURS OF FIGGERIN. LOOK AT THE MOUNTING HOLES ON THE CASE THEY LOOK LIKE LITTLE TUBES AND THEN LOOK AT THE MOUNTING GROMMETS THERE IS NO CONNECTION TO GROUND. N- O N E. THIS I THOUGHT AT FIRST MIGHT BE CASUAL BUT AFTER MUCH EXPIERMENTATION I THINK SOMEONE HIT A NICE EGINEERING FEAT AND INSULATED THE CASE ON PURPOSE. THOSE GROMMETS DON'T COST MUCH BUT THEY COST AND MANUFACTURERS DON'T SPEND UNLESS NEEDED. THE RAISED SPOT ON THE FIREWALL BEHIND OUTBOARD TOP SCREW IS OVERSIGHT BY THE ENGINEERS. WHEN I WAS A PRACTICING MECH I KEPT A BOOK OF DESIGN FLAWS ON EVERY CAR WHEN I FOUND THEM. MADE IT LOT EASIER TO REMEMBER HOW TO FIX'EM. OVER THE YEARS THE BOOK GOT THICK. THIS IS ONE FOR THE BOOK.

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Grounding screw to bracket
Mar 22, 2008 1:52AM PDT

This a.m. I removed the bracket holding the pcm and lo-and-behold, the paint was completely gone behind the top outer screw. I found an old tuperware container, cut the plastic to fit inside the bracket, and attached it with the old trusty plastic zip strips. Has been running good all morning. May not be the fix, but at least with the help of some real mechanics, we are at least narrowing it down. I thank each of you. Wouldn't it be great if someone at Jeep would let us know how to really fix it? Would be worth the price to me.

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Try again
Mar 23, 2008 12:05AM PDT

Stalled again last night, but as normal, started immediately. Ready for the next fix.

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stalled again
Mar 23, 2008 10:31PM PDT

Had the same problem, have you changed the crank position sensor? That worked for me (at least it has for the past two weeks)

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already changed that too
Mar 23, 2008 11:00PM PDT

Yeah, changed that last year, worked for a little while. Yesterday a.m., I replaced the two screws on front of pcm with nylon screws, figuring they wouldn't conduct the ground. Worked yesterday and this morning. Hard to tell though, since sometimes when I disconnect battery, it runs for a little while without stalling. The screws I used, in case you want to try, were from Home Depot, Lowes didn't have them. They were 8/32 nylon thumbhead screws, 1/2 inch long. I filed down the screw to make a point so it would fit into receiver inside pcm. The thumbhead was so I didn't have to mess with screwdriver. Tried this since whenever mine wouldn't start, just crank, if I twisted the screws, it would always start. Hopefully the nylon doesn't melt in there. Will repost if works or not.

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Crank Shaft Sensor on 94 Cherokee 4.0 Automatic
Apr 2, 2008 3:47AM PDT

I just changed the Crank Shaft Sensor the other day. Waiting to see if I continue to have the issue. I tried to change the sensor on my own but ultimatly brought it to a garage. Very difficult to reach without a lift. The sensor retailed for 160.00. It is located on the bell housing - drivers side. Could see it from the top but could only get to it from under.

I will let you all know in a couple of weeks...

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Crank Sensor
Apr 2, 2008 9:14PM PDT

160 for the crank sensore? Wow! I only paid 140 with instalation. i think the part itself was only about 65 bucks. Anyway, its been 3 weeks now without a stall!!

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Stalling
Apr 12, 2008 2:17AM PDT

I had an issue with random stalling on my 1997 JGC with V8 last year after replacing the radiator. Came up with an 02 sensor code so I replaced them both only to get the code again. Ran a separate ground and it fixed the random stalling but now have a problem with starting the AM. If I hold the gas down for awhile it will run otherwise it dies immediatly. I'm going to try the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE and see if this helps.

As far as the rest of the stalling problems I'm seeing here I can't help but wonder if they are all related to a ground issue.

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JGC 1995 after to replace a radiator the car shut down
May 28, 2008 10:27AM PDT

Hi,

I have a JGC 1995, with the same problem, I change the radiator, after that, when I loose the brakes I feel a little vibration and the car shut down. I changed the cap distributor, cables, IAC and doesn?t works

Do you fix your JGC?

Please tell me, I very confused.

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After radiator...car shut down
May 29, 2008 3:40AM PDT

Carlos... I have a 96... but I don't think replacing your radiator effects your start-up unless you maybe overheated the engine and it is frozen.... other issues like lost brakes, vibrations and car shutting down don't make sense either... Maybe these problems have been there and now everything is showing up at once... radiator, brakes, engine, what else??? I'm sure there is more (A horn, locks don't work, dead battery)... if you have not been taken care of the car on a regular bases.

There are too many issues to look at... with very few stated problems... Car won't start or won't crank over? and all have perticular signs of trouble... like a leaky radiator before it errupts or the car was slow to crank and then it just died... now it is dead... check connection and battery, check starter, Check engine fuses... on and on...

But before all that and before you ask for help... read all comments listed and it will help you understand... there are too many possibilities for a quick answer!

Suggest to make a list of problems and group them together by category. Then brough or buy a scanner and check for electric Codes and start from there!

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stallling problems caused by stupid cover.
May 29, 2008 8:01PM PDT

what i did to stop my stalling issue is what the first guy said that started the page... i loosed the two screws that are behind the reserve tank.. its a cover for the computer harness or something... try to loosen the screws and see if that helps

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Circuit ground vs chassis ground
Apr 15, 2008 7:20AM PDT

I'm not a mechanic and I do not pretend to know the circuits of any PCMs, but do have experience with electronics repair. The grounds you refer to may be ciruit grounds and not chassis ground. These can be different or at least cause interference with one another.

A good example would be speaker wires. In general theory you could simply connect the speaker ground from the radio to chassis ground and connect the ground from the speaker to chassis ground. As long as the Pos wire ran from the radio to the speaker pos, it should work. Years ago it did work just fine, but not with the radios of today. The circuits are much more complex and too sensitive to feedback and interference. Now it would cause sound distortion and possibly damage the radio.

I'm not saying that is the answer, but it is a possibility.

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stalling again
May 13, 2008 11:07AM PDT

I read your article, and did experience an immediate resolution to my stalling issues, after backing the screws on PCM, however, I'm stalling again. I must also mention that I've replaced the crank and temp sensors. I've also installed new distributor, wires/plugs, and exhaust(cat/muff/o2sensors). Concern is that I am noticing that I'm losing juice to the ignition coil. The coil and wire are also new. The dealer says they have no clue other than to replace the wire harness, which they don't sell. Can you think of why I may be losing juice to the coil intermittently? Might replacing the ignition switch help? Your assitance is greatly appreciated in advance if your still monitoring this tread.

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PCM / ECM intermittent Vehicle Stalling with high mileage
May 13, 2008 2:15PM PDT

Please see my posting # 17 in this Forum. This will likely allow you to determine accurately that the problem really is the PCM/ ECM module. It should NOT be considered a FIX, but a troubleshooting measure. If you determine to your satisfaction that the problem IS the computer, you'll need to find either a reputable remanufacturer who is familiar with and tests for the problem or buy a factory new module. Rebuilt prices from reputable sources are near $250.00 and will be offered with a lifetime warranty. Or, you can buy a new Mopar one from the dealer which will likely do the same thing after 150,000 miles or so. Everyone needs to remember that the early to high mid-nineties was during the time that Chrysler was almost bankrupt and was under the leadership of Lee Iococa. They took a lot of questionable shortcuts, many of which appear only after more than 120,000 or more hard miles of use.

If you think this is one of their worst, just wait until someone you know has an automatic transmission failure in a Plymouth Caravan or Dodge Voyager mini-van close around 1994- 1997. Now that's really BAD.

I hope this helps.

Regards, Jim

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Continuation and Final Repair of the problem.
Jun 6, 2008 8:22AM PDT

Finally, I can say, with assurance that the intermittent stalling of my daughters 1997 Jeep GC Larado is fixed, not just patched or masked over, after the FOURTH ECM installation. The first replacement was with an ECM fron a 'junk yard'. See my post at # 17 of this thread for more detail. I promise, it's worth reading. This was a 406AD computer which would start, but not run, the truck. Next we purchased a REMANUFACTURED ECM/ PCM from All Computers in Florida, programmed to the VIN #, from a CORE that was a 412XX and included Chrysler updates. IT had the identical symthoms as the 'junk yard' 406AD computer. In the interum I had devised a way to cause the original ECM to work without failing, at least for a time, as outlined in my two precious postings. Ryan at the remanufacturing facility worked along with me to find a solution and sent a second computer, which was installed and came up working AND COULD NOT BE CAUSED TO FAIL by stressing and has not failed in any manner after almost two weeks. This second rebuilt was programmed to the VIN # with no updates and to a CORE that was originally a 406AC. As mentioned in other postings the stalling failures do not set any failure codes inside the computers, lending credance to the statement that most likely the problem involves an input(B+)voltage failure on the 'A' connector of the ECM. This is supported by my own experience of being able to 'fix' the failure by applying foorward pressure on the driver's side top of the ECM. 'Fix' is not a good word for what was done, as it only 'masked' a problem still very much alive.

The following is only conjecture and has no basis in fact:
This does not explain the incompatibility of the 406AD or the 412XX reprogrammed cores. There is a strong possibility that there is an 'undocumented feature' either in the Chrysler updates OR worse yet a 'sneaky snake' change in the wiring harness connectors between the older ECMs, as in 406AB/406AC, when compared to the later ones starting with the 406AD and upward. Based on my own experience and that of the many others I read about here, I have absolutely no doubt that the problem in MOST of these cases Is DEFINITELY the COMPUTER. If you're going to replace it, do one of two things: Buy a Mopar new or rebuilt for an arm and a leg or replace it with a low milage one with the IDENTICAL last five numbers as in 406AB. The cheaper solution is to buy a rebuilt from someone who will program your replacement onto a core with identical last five digits as in 406AB and be prepared to replace what they send you, if that is necessary.

I hope this helps someone save a lot of time and money. Regards, Jim

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new PCM
Jun 7, 2008 11:09PM PDT

It looks like the consensus is that the problem is the PCM. Has anyone out there had any trouble once they installed a NEW (not used or refurbished PCM. How much does a new PCM cost and where is the best place to have one installed?

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Replace... PCM
Jun 9, 2008 9:26AM PDT

If you have not read all of the posts, that explains your question... If you have the money... have Jeep do it but the problem might be more then just the PCM or ECM (same part). Suggest to read all posts and take notes that apply to your problem, also note who said what, as you go, as you will find that other parts had to be replaced too, after the PCM!

Good luck... it is a ***** to resolve!

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Stalling Again & Again
May 16, 2008 2:14PM PDT

If the dealer mentioned you have an error code of P351, Ignition Coil #1 Driver Fault, this would match the symptoms you have with your car stalling or barely hanging on. Most of the posts in the forum will match this problem. Thing is... it not your coil,...it the signal TO your coil FROM the PCM. (Specifically Pin A7 on the Black PCM Plug. it is a Grey and White striped wire that plugs into the ignition coil. // the other wire goes to your fuel injectors etc and is Green/Orange)
Bottom line; your PCM is very likely to be the culprit. PLEEASE read my post #18. If I was to do it again I would buy a NEW OEM MOPAR PCM... period.
One last tech footnote: If you have a $12 volt/ohm meter and a $15 Haynes repair manual, you can test your coil in about 5 minutes to eliminate it from your doubts. Its a little trickier but you can then check your Crank Position Sensor and your Auto ShutDown relay. The CPS, ASD, and fuel relay are like O-Rings on the Space Shuttle...if it fails, you're done. Everything else is managable and easily tested. The PCM has a bad sense of humor and will mess with you at the worst possible time after teasing you into thinking it was OK. It is usually the criminal and everything else are just scapegoats. Again.. Please read post #18. http://forums.cnet.com/5208-4_102-0.html?forumID=78&threadID=248386&messageID=2770455#2770455

Good luck and welcome to the club.
dw

PS: the power supply into your PCM comes from the ASD relay (referred to as B+ , or the red Battery Plus terminal, which by the way has a 20amp fuse between the actual battery and the ASD relay)PSS: That Green and Orange wire I mentioned that is at the coil plug...comes from the ASD and controled by the PCM.

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Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling fixed
May 15, 2008 11:45AM PDT

Just wanted to say thanks for your post. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 150,000 miles on it, that started stalling intermitently (mostly after sitting for a few hours). I took it to a Jeep dealership for repairs. The spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor were replaced, and they said several diagnostic checks were run, no codes came up. I was told the battery had a dead cell causing the problem. The battery was replaced and the Jeep was test driven. The dealership said it "hiccuped" once during the test drive, and they recommended I replace the computer. I had my daughter pick it up instead, becase they were just fishing for the problem, replacing parts randomly with little hope for a real solution in mind. It stalled several times on the way home. I read your post and replaced the 1/2 inch torx head screws with 1/4 inch torx head screws from Lowes (.50 cents) It has run great ever since.

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Grand Cherokee stalling
May 28, 2008 10:08AM PDT

I had the same problem with my 1996 jeep and cuting the screws in half fixed the problem. Thanks to "1996Jeep GC" who saved me a lot of time going back and forth to mechanics and not fixing the problem. They have almost replaced all electrical parts and dealer was going to charge me $1400 to replace the PCM.
I think we should all complain to Clysler and have them to recall and returm our money. I have already send an e-mail to Crysler but of course they did not reply.

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my stalling fix... 0 dollarz
May 29, 2008 8:09PM PDT

1999 grande cherokee my screws were welled to the firewall ... so i backed the screws out worked for a couple of days... started again... so i took the nut all the way off ... and it hasnt stopped since..

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PCM trouble
Jun 6, 2008 7:09AM PDT

1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, 6cyl

okay so my PCM looks like this?:

http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/Jeep%20Cherokee.jpg

i took it off and unplugged the cartridge from the top that had wires going into it. now i'm left with what you see in the picture. i open the cover up and all i see is a jelly covering over a motherboard. where are these tubes and screws everyone keeps talking about?

this all started because the fuel pump won't actuate or prime right away when you turn just the power on. once it primes, you can have the car run most of the day unless it sits for too long.

if you want to read my original problem, it's quite interesting..:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5307784#post5307784

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1992... ECM screws
Jun 7, 2008 10:13PM PDT

Hello...
The screws of what we've been talking about are for a newer model ECM, starting with a 1995,96,97 and maybe 98? If you are sure it is the ECM, I suggest to just buy a new ECM from Mopar, with the up-dates already installed, rather then screwing around with rebuilts or just sell or trade the car and save yourself all this aggravation...

If committed to fix it... There are several cars with your same looking ECM... Look for 92,93,94 models and notes written about them.

That's all I got... don't bother writing me back... Good luck!

Cat5 Cane...

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keeping forum active
Jun 21, 2008 1:31AM PDT

adding note to keep this board alive for others to read!!!

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Thanks for the fix!
Jun 28, 2008 6:40AM PDT

I have a 4.0L 1996 JGC that was having very similar problems. It has 98k miles on it and about 3 weeks ago it started stalling. It was happening at least once a day, to as many as 8-9 times a day. It was stalling at stop lights, while driving, when hot or cold. I swapped out the Idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, cleaned the throttle body and finally I brought it to a mechanic and he checked everything else that could be the culprit but could find nothing wrong.

I found your thread, cut the two torx screws on the PCM under the connectors in half to 1/4" and she hasn't stalled for the past 4 days. So far so good.

It sounds like some people are having the problem reoccur after several weeks or months of no problems. Have you narrowed the problem down further? Should I just buy a brand new PCM to prevent the reoccurence?

Thanks for your help with the temporary(but hopefully permanent) fix!!