16 total posts
Compare with Tom's.
But another issue is BAD CAPS on the motherboard that can generate a lot of heat from the boards. Some will put new heatsink compound on and complain the CPU feels hotter (it's not, the heatsink IS hotter since the transfer from CPU to heatsink is better!)
thats a fancy rig. too fancy.
Toms test rig looks nice but I'm not going to shell out that kind of cash for a rig I'd only use once in a blue moon. His write up says the rig uses resistors but little detail is given. I'm using resistors too.
You didn't detail it either.
That 2 ohm would be some 6 amperes. I saw one rig where they tried that on just one connector. Try using 1 ampere per connection to remove the loss from wire and connectors. Or open up the PSU and measure directly on the PCB.
loss should be minimal
The wires in this thing are at least 18 Ga. The loss at 6A should be negligible. The 3.3V line is rated for 32A.
I have an oscilloscope and a hot iron (and more.)
So my advice is to not drop such a load on one wire and connector. The last time I checked it was only good for 2 amps per.
There are 3 3.3V rails
There are only 3 3.3V rails to carry 32A. That's 10.7A each. I'm only trying to pull 4.4A. I ohm'd them out and they're all connected internally.
The stock molex connector is not rated for that much.
You are over 2x it's rating so spread that load to at least 3 leads for plus and the ground (6 connections total.)
stock molex is good to about 9-12A
Stock molex connectors are good to between 9-12A per terminal. I'm only pulling 4.4 and only for a few seconds.
Just checked the specs again.
It's either you are over or the PSU is toast.
It looks like they just check unloaded lines
Looking at the specs/features for all but the SunMoon devices these testers only verify the unloaded voltages. I can (and did) do that with a multimeter. The PSU looked fine unloaded. It's when I threw a load on that the voltages dropped so much.
SunMoon device is might pricey.
Is there anything in these SunMoon things besides some power resistors, switches, and multimeters? I couldn't afford one anyway. I should be able to accomplish the same thing with what I have. I just don't know if there's anything more to it than just hooking resistors across the pins for each rail and shorting the PSON pin to ground.
you can buy a
Digital multimeter that includes and RS232 hookup and electrical monitoring software
sears has one or you can buy a tesla they are more pricey but the electronics in the multimeter are a higher grade
I'm using a multimeter
I'm using a fluke multimeter. It's a very accurate DMM.