I'll lock the other one as I think you'll get more answers here.
Bob
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Hi guys. I'm replacing the hard drive in my computer. It's 12 years old and runs constantly. Last week I started getting memory error notifications. I can't remember exactly what the message was, but in the pop-up bubble it was four characters including one $ sign saying memory loss.
I googled it, most articles said failing hard drive.
So with 12years of constant daily use I figured it's on borrowed time anyway. So I got a new bulk grade Seagate 160gb for $13.
The jumper pin set-up is different. My old drive has 9 pins and 2 white jumpers. The new drive only has 8 pins and no jumper. The new drive says Ultra ATA, It has the old IDE ribbon.
Should I put a jumper on the CS pins?
Discussion is locked
"As far as the OS. Shouldn't I just be able to format and install my CD?"
For Windows I consider formatting before we use the Windows install an incorrect procedure. Just let the Windows install or restore CD create and format partitions. Doing it ahead of time can, in a lot of cases create install failures.
Yes, it is possible to do this ahead of time but why not let the Windows installer do it and save the headaches?
Bob
When Firefox wouldn't respond I opened AOL and wound up posting in a different place.
It must be annoying being a mod sometimes. Sorry.
Thanks Bob. All went smoothly.
I bridged the CS pins and booted up with the Windows CD in the drawer, PC Angel popped up and installed the system.. It worked well. The new drive is completely silent.
Before posting to cnet, I googled various Jumper Pin phrases. It seems there is no definitive tutorial on how to configure those pins. And it's seems the 10 pin drives have Jumper bridges going up and down, sideways and multiple bridges. Is there a better more optimal setting for those jumpers? I read that they might not even be necessary.
For all the times I set up IDE drives I've had to configure per model drive. I might have to know if the IDE cable is 40 or 80 conductor and well, you see there is no one stop web page on this.
Bob
info below on the Seagate website. I'm sure you'd find it if you had the HDD model number.
http://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/support/disc/manuals/ce/DB35%20Series/DB35.3%20Series/100439554f.pdf
Best to go direct to the mfg with the exact model for the info you seek.
Here's another search 'setting jumpers on seagate hard drive' with plenty of hit and videos..
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A0LEVjAIyilVZMoABFInnIlQ;_ylc=X1MDMTM1MTE5NTY4NwRfcgMyBGZyAwRncHJpZANnNHYuWnUzaFQ3S1V4b0dCcTlYejNBBG5fcnNsdAMwBG5fc3VnZwMxMARvcmlnaW4Dc2VhcmNoLnlhaG9vLmNvbQRwb3MDMTAEcHFzdHIDc2V0dGluZyBqdW1wZXJzBHBxc3RybAMxNQRxc3RybAMzNwRxdWVyeQNzZXR0aW5nIGp1bXBlcnMgb24gc2VhZ2F0ZSBoYXJkIGRyaXZlBHRfc3RtcAMxNDI4ODAyNjE3?p=setting+jumpers+on+seagate+hard+drive&fr2=sa-gp-search&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003
VAPCMD
So according to the Seagate manual I sould have jumped the first set of pins (7&
for single/master instead of the second row of pins (CS/cable select)?
I used the second row for CS/cable select. The stcker on the drive gave me a choice of cable select or slave. There was no mention of single/master on the sticer.
That manual does cover my drive. I didn't get one because I bought bul grade.
The drive seems to be working with the CS pins jumped. Would it work better if I switched to the master setting first row of pns?
If the cable is the 80 conductor type we can use CS. If not we use other settings.
If it's working STOP.
Bob
As Bob indicated ....with the right 80-wire, 40-pin HDD cable, "CS" is recommended.
If you really really want to know more about setting jumpers and cables for IDE/PATA HDDs, check the link below.
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=using+cable+select+hard&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003
Happy Computing !
VAPCMD
many have the pin settings right there. Might be etched into the metal rather than on the label. 12 years ago was the failing capacitors which caused RAM to go bad and that in turn caused bad data writes to hard drives making them appear bad, even if not . Good to replace such an old drive, but also you should run a RAM test. Memtest is a good one.
http://www.memtest86.com/
http://www.cnet.com/how-to/test-your-ram-with-windows-memory-diagnostic-tool/