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DSL and Dlink DI-624

by bportpat / June 22, 2005 3:12 AM PDT

Hey i would really like help trying to set up a wireless router. I have the DI-624 and i am trying to make it work with verizon DSL. All pc will have XP. I went to the dlink site and read the FAQ's but i still dont understand what it all means. LIke what it PPPoE

Thanks for the help

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tell us more...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 3:26 AM PDT
In reply to: DSL and Dlink DI-624

about your Verizon DSL service. They have several variants. A key piece of technical evidence you can tell us is: What DSL modem did Verizon send you (brand name and type plus tell us the full model number on the bottom).

Did Verizon give you a userID and you had to set up a password in order to log onto the DSL service? If so, you are in a PPPOE region. If you don't have to use a password to get onto the DSL (though you would still need a password to get to your email), then you don't have PPPOE.

Depending on the exact answers to the above questions, we can tell you what to do to your modem and to the new router to make it work.


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more info
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 3:55 AM PDT
In reply to: tell us more...

yes they have to use a password to sign in and i know its PPPoE (whatever that means) but i will have to findout the router and the model #

i am helping my girlfriends family and i havnt done wireless with dsl because i have cable myself

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the rest
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:06 AM PDT
In reply to: more info

the router is a wirespeed by Westell Inc. i think the model is 6000.

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by Dick White / June 22, 2005 4:18 AM PDT
In reply to: the rest

Verizon has used Westies for all but a few legacy GTE installations, but I don't think we ever used the 6000 series modems, just the 2000 series. But it matters if it is a really old 2000, kinda old 2100, or just a little bit old 2200 model number. Let us know when you get there.


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Ok, that's a start...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 4:09 AM PDT
In reply to: more info

Now we know it is PPPOE. Simply stated, PPPOE is a logon authentication and transmission method that requires a special little utility running somewhere in the system that inserts some specific information in each packet of data as it goes out. That utility can be running either: In the modem itself; or in the router; or in the computer. But it can't be running twice in the same connection without causing trouble. Thus we need to know where it is running now and then decide where we want it to be running in the final configuration. For that we need to start with the exact model number of the DSL modem (to determine whether the PPPOE shim is there or not). Then we'll turn PPPOE off in the modem (and the exact procedure varies by model number) and turn it on in the new D-Link wireless router. Finally, let me forewarn you that if she has a Versalink 372 modem (the current Verizon offering), then she already has wireless and you should have purchased a simple network switch. But let's cross that bridge when we get there...


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by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:17 AM PDT
In reply to: Ok, that's a start...
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by Dick White / June 22, 2005 4:30 AM PDT
In reply to: next

you posted your recollection of the model number while I was writing about the new wireless model 372, which I now know you don't have. So never mind on that point.

The issue is determining where the PPPOE shim is operating from right now. The old 2100 and earlier models were just pass-through bridge devices, and so the PPPOE had to be done in software on the computer or in firmware of an external router. The newer 2200 model has PPPOE as the default in its firmware, which needs to be turned off when you introduce a router. Setting it up in the router is simple. But first we need to learn which modem is in use and make sure it is turned off there (if it is there at all).


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by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:34 AM PDT
In reply to: yup...

i will go over there tonight and i will look for the model #

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'nother thought...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 4:44 AM PDT
In reply to: model

while you're at it...

Your first post mentioned computers in the plural. Is there a wired router in the mix currently? If so, the new D-Link will probably be a simple plug-for-plug swap. Then drill into the setup page and turn on PPPOE (rather than the likely default straight ethernet) in the connection type, put in the userID and password, and then tweak anything else that needs to be tweaked - including setting up all the wireless security parameters. The wireless security parameters are going to be the tricky part (but not that tricky...), not the PPPOE.


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no wired
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:49 AM PDT
In reply to: 'nother thought...

no they have one pc but her older brother is back from college and has wireless built in and wanted to use it and im setting up an extra pc i had for her so i got the Di-624 for $20 and the PCI card for like $40 and i just need the router to get it all working

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ok model #
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:46 AM PDT
In reply to: yup...

i called her and she sed the model # was:


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an oldie but goodie...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 4:53 AM PDT
In reply to: ok model #

and dumb as a doornail. Which is good. Same as mine. No PPPOE in the modem, so it is all being done upstream somewhere. Either in an existing wired router (see my other post) or if only one computer is connected, in software on that computer. If in an existing router, we just set the new router to PPPOE, etc. and swap it in. If no current router, we need to be certain PPPOE is turned off in the XP operating system before introducing a new router to manage the PPPOE.


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its in the main pc
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 4:55 AM PDT
In reply to: an oldie but goodie...

its in the main pc if you have seen the post i just but in because they dont have a wired router

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steps to take...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 7:27 AM PDT
In reply to: its in the main pc

Delete the Verizon PPPOE connectoid in the network connections list. You won't need it anymore.

Use the network wizard to set up a new internet connection that is straight broadband/ethernet through a local area network. You don't have a LAN - yet - but don't let that get in the way of the wizard. You'll want it set to acquire an IP address automatically. Turn the computer off.

Take the ethenet wire between the modem and the computer and reconnect it to between LAN jack #1 on the router and the computer. In other words, you don't need to crawl under the desk to change the ethernet cable in the back of the computer. Take the new ethernet cord and connect it from to the modem (where you just took the other cable out) and the WAN jack on the back of the router.

Turn the router on.

Turn the computer on.

The computer should acquire an internal IP address from the router. Follow the router instructions (or run its wizard) for configuring a DSL connection, i.e., this is where you put the Verizon userID and password into the router.

At this point, you should be able to access the internet. Now you just need to tweak. Get DrTCP (google it, first item, download from Broadband and reset your computer MTU to 1492. This will be necessary if you hope email to go through (its just the way Verizon does it, so you have to do it their way...) Be sure to reset the MTU on any other computers using this connection if they will be sending Verizon email. Otherwise, resetting MTU is merely an efficiency tweak. The connection can live with the default 1500, but 1492 works better.

Get comfortable with the configuration interface of the D-Link - you will be using it a lot as you bring up the wireless security.

Attend to whatever is required for installing the WiFi card in the laptop. After you have installed it according to the manufacturer's instructions, go to the manufacturer's website to see if there are any firmware or driver updates. This is critical - with the rate that manufacturers are releasing firmware and driver patches these days, even brand new merchandise is obsolete until patched.

Establish an initial unsecured default WiFi connection between the laptop and the router access point. Windows will complain that you are being foolish to connect to an insecure location, but go with it for now. Gotta first make sure all drivers and hardware work in plain vanilla default mode. Review anything that doesn't work and get it working now.

When the connection works, start upgrading the security levels on the connection. Change the name of the SSID. Enable MAC filtering. Enable encryption. Deny wireless access to the router setup. Etc. But do it one step at a time. You'll have to bounce back and forth between the router setup screens which you'll be viewing from the wired connection and the configuration dialogs on the laptop. As each piece falls into place, go on to the next. This way you'll only have to fight with one setting or mis-typed passphrase at a time. Believe me, this can be nutty. You can't see what you typed behind the asterisks, so you have to be very careful to get it right at both ends.

When the wireless connection is working to your satisfaction from within the same room, take the laptop where ever it will reside and try again from there. If you start having connection problems, it is not a configuration issue (you already got that set up while in the same room), but rather is a signal range issue. Now you just have to play with the antenna positioning to get the signal strength right. Or do something more radical for improved signal penetration - but that's another topic which we shouldn't get into here, just be aware that it sometimes is an issue to deal with.


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Thanks for the help
by bportpat / June 22, 2005 8:22 AM PDT
In reply to: steps to take...

Thanks for the help i am going to go try it within the hour

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One other thing...
by Dick White / June 22, 2005 8:55 AM PDT
In reply to: Thanks for the help

that I should have been more explicit about regarding device firmware. I mentioned that in the paragraph about the laptop card, but updating the firmware of the router is just as important. There are some known issues with that model that are fixed in a very recent firmware patch. Surely the item you just bought didn't make it all the way from manufacturing through end-user distribution in less than 2 weeks. The firmware patch is newer than your brand new router. After you get internet connectivity, download the firmware patch from D-Link.


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by bportpat / June 23, 2005 12:17 AM PDT
In reply to: One other thing...

I downloaded the 2.42 off the website because i wasnt sure if the 2.5 worked for the router i had.
I have resion C of the router and i thought the 2.5 said not for rev3.

Thanks for the help i got it up i havnt done the security stuff becuase the last pc wasnt set up yet

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