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Answer:
How NOT to get ripped off...
John,
For what it's worth, MOST stores are going to be honest for the most part about this sort of thing. There may, however, sometimes be issues when you take a box in for service and MIGHT not get quite the box you took in.
Case in point: You have an older computer - one that's say 3 - 4 years old and some component is failing - say, a video card. Your computer's motherboard has an 8x AGP based bus. At the time you built this computer, you paid good money for a particular video card but now, 3+ years later, that particular vendor is no longer in business or the specific model of card in question is obsolete and an exact replacement can't be found. Now at this point, if the computer repair place is honest, they will probably call you on the phone and get further instructions as to what you want them to do about it. More often than not, they'll recommend a replacement card they have in stock or can get ahold of easily. Chances are it may not, however, be an exact match for the one being replaced. It may be better than the one in the box or then again, it may not.
Before taking the computer anywhere - the FIRST thing to do is BACK UP YOUR DATA! Of course, if your computer won't boot any more, then this bit of advice is a day late and a dollar short.
So how does one NOT get ripped off?
1.) The first too in your arsenal is to KNOW YOUR HARDWARE!
Unfortunately, for the vast majority of people (read: those who aren't enthusiasts) probably wouldn't know a CPU chip from a RAM chip. And quite frankly could care less what the exact particulars are as long as it does what they want and expect it to do. Unless they're into gaming, they might not even notice a degrade in video performance. If this describes you, your best bet is to get some help from the geek in the family or the one down the street.
It's best to know what you've got on the before side of the picture. A trip through the Device Manager (right-click on My Computer, select Manage and the Device Manger item on the left hand tree of the computer managment console.). Go through each item on the tree and see what you've got for each component. Write this info down somewhere. If you've got an AMD Athlon XP 2100+ processor, make a note of it. If you've got 512 MB RAM, write that down too. Keep going through the main sections. Don't worry too much about external devices - such as printers, external hard drives, other things plugged in via USB.
2.) When you go into a place, get a feel for the guys working behind the counter. If you're taking it to a small shop, look around and ask questions. If the guy seems to know what he's talking about, and MOST importantly, you feel comfortable with dealing with the guy, by all means, proceed with getting your computer repaired. However, if you've got a nagging feeling in the back of your head, or you feel the slightest doubt that the guy's honest OR if he's jumping the gun and telling you that you really need to dump everything and Upgrade! UPGRADE! UPGRADE! then you just might want to go elsewhere. This guy's got only ONE thing on his mind - and it isn't your best interest.
If you're taking the computer to a big named store, odds are the guy may NOT know a CPU from a hole in the ground. Big name stores tend to hire people who will work for less money. More often than not, they will hire younger people who at best, know enough about computers to be slightly dangerous - in other words, they can install basic hardware upgrades, but they're not quite able to diagnose or fix anything serious. When it comes to handling serious problems, they will take custody of your computer, give you a claim check/repair order, tell you it will take some time to get the machine looked at and fixed and send you home. If you happen to have a warranty (extended or otherwise), you may (or may not) also be given the option of getting a loaner computer for the duration. They will generally then send your computer to a larger facility that does repairs for all of the stores in a given area.
The downside to the big named store is that they generally tend to take a really, REALLY long time getting things fixed and back to you. And even then, there still might be issues that never quite get resolved.
Case in point: A colleague of mine has a client who bought a computer from Fry's Electronics complete with a 5 year extended warranty. About 4 years and 6 months into the warranty, the computer was no longer able to access the guy's network. So, they took it into Fry's for service - FIVE times. Each time, they would take the machine in, get the repair order, get a loaner, and wait SIX weeks only to get the computer back, allegedly fixed and yet, it STILL didn't work properly. A call to the tech support area at Compaq determined the problem was most likely a motherboard issue and it would have to be replaced. Each time, however, the techs at Fry's simply replaced the network card and sent it back. On the fifth and final time they took the thing in, Fry's actually lost the entire machine. They wound up giving him a brand new one.
Had the guy NOT bought the extended warranty, my colleague could have diagnosed the problem, replaced the motherboard with a new one and the guy could have been back up and running in a day or two at the most. As it was, it took 5 trips to the store, 6 weeks between dropping it off and getting it back - for a total of 30 odd weeks. That's more than 6 months. Ultimately, yes, he got some satisfaction out of it BUT he had to put in some serious effort on his part to get it.
3.) ASK AROUND! Ask your friends who have computers where they take their computer issues. Chances are, if they've had problems in the past, they can steer you to good, reliable vendors and away from those who aren't.
4.) Dirty Trick: Use the old "drop of nail polish on the components" bit. If your options are limited and the only game in town is someone you aren't 100% comfortable with, here's a trick that's been around the block a few times. Buy yourself a small bottle of nail polish. The color doesn't really matter as long as it's not clear. (You want the mark to be visible.) Simply open up your case and put a very small drop of the polish on each component - making sure you're NOT putting it on any of the metal legs where parts are soldered onto the motherboard. You do NOT want to compound your problems by shorting something out. A small drop on the edge of your motherboard, sticks of RAM, CPU fan, hard drives, any cards plugged into the computer, etc... will suffice. It doesn't have to be obviously placed as long as you can remember where you put them.
Close the case and take it in for service. When you get it back, you can pop the case open again and look for the drops of nail polish. If something was swapped out that shouldn't have been, you can nail the guy for making unauthorized changes.
There are occasions when this trick won't work. If for whatever reason, the techs decide that your computer can't be repaired and is still under warranty, they may opt to give you a refurbished model that is at the very least, equal to or (preferrably) better than what you walked in with.
Some companies routinely skip trying to figure out what's wrong with the computer and directly issue a replacement. In a situation like this, you will most certainly need to take a few extra steps to make sure you don't lose anything important. (You DID back everything up - Right?)
Case in point: Sony VAIO laptops. About a year or so ago, one of my clients had a problem with his laptop. One of the keys on the keyboard went missing. To get it fixed, Sony's techs told me they would simply swap the laptop out. I could NOT buy a replacement keyboard from them at ANY price. They informed me that any upgrade, namely additional RAM, would NOT be included in the replacement laptop. Furthermore, the data on the hard drive would likewise be lost. Not to mention, if you changed the partitions on the laptop, they would be MOST unhappy. If you upgrade the OS (the one in question came with Windows ME and was upgraded to XP.), you were likewise outta luck - the replacement will the orignal OS - Windows ME on it.
In other words, they want the laptop shipped back to them EXACTLY as they sold it. Upgrades and embellishments are heavily frowned upon. Makes you wonder exactly WHO owns the laptop - you or Sony...?
5.) IF you can, get ahold of any and all serial numbers associated with the hardware inside your computer. Sometimes, however, this would require taking the computer apart. Once again, if you're not comfortable doing this, get someone to help you out. This would include, most importantly, the product key for your copy of Windows from the sticker on the side/back/top/bottom of the computer. As with the nail polish trick, make a list ahead of time and compare it with the computer you get back. Note any discrepancies and demand an explanation.
6.) Above all... Be sure to request ALL of your old parts back. Just as if you were taking your car in for service, you have the rights to get all of your old components back. Make sure you explain this to them when you take the computer in and BEFORE you sign the work order. Better still, make sure that information is written legibly on the work order so the techs know to save the parts and get them back to you. If you don't tell them to do so, odds are they will dispose of the evidence. If they balk at the idea of getting the replaced parts back to you, you might consider going elsewhere.
7.) A Picture is worth a 1000 words... Take pictures of the insides of your computer. Make sure you've got plenty of light, use a flash if needed. Make sure the pictures are crystal clear. If you notice anything odd - like your formerly green motherboard is now royal purple, or the big old honkin' fan on your video card is different, you know what to do - especially when you took the computer in for something else.
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Submitted by: Wolfie2k5
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Take an inventory...
For the most part you can't ensure the correct components are present just by looking inside the case since so many different makes and models look alike. In addition, not all components have labels on them with the proper identification. Thus, the best approach is to take an inventory using a program such as Everest, which is freeware. It will analyze your PC, recording almost every component installed, along with the make, model, specs, and serial number, if applicable. Specifically, it will take care of the motherboard, processor, RAM, optical drives, hard drives, disk drives, graphics and sounds cards, and networking adapters. It will also note your keyboard, mouse, and monitor, just in case you're packing them up as well.
To get the ball rolling, install and launch Everest, then click the Report button along the top or go Report->Report Wizard. The "System Summary" should suffice, though you can choose to receive a full report if you prefer. Depending on which report type you choose the report could be quite long, so you may want to save the file to a flash drive instead of printing it.
Note, however, that this inventory is not quite comprehensive, for not all components are capable of reporting themselves via software. These items include the power supply (PSU), fans, and the case itself. The latter should be easy to identify and the fans are of little consequence unless you purchased high-quality parts, leaving you with the PSU. If you peek inside your case you should find it in the top back region of the case with a large label stating the brand, model number, and wattage. Write those down for later references.
Once you receive your computer back from the repair shop, you can repeat this process, comparing the initial report to the new one. Any components you had them install should be properly identified on the new report, while the rest should match the old. If there is a discrepancy chances are something's not kosher.
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Some other things to keep in mind:
* If there is a software issue the repair shop may reinstall Windows without your permission, wiping out all of your personal files. Thus, it's always a good idea to backup what you can't afford to lose first.
* Likewise, if there are any personal/private files you don't want them to happen across, you may want to move them to a flash drive or other form of removable storage before boxing it up. They could still drudge it up off the hard drive, but it's a little added precaution.
* Always request a written work order before they perform any work on your computer, clearly stating what they will do and what they will charge. In addition, always request a receipt upon completion, stating what work was performed, what parts were added/replaced, how much was charged, and what warranties are given.
* If you are paying for the work to be done, as opposed to having it covered under a warranty, request that the old parts, if any, be returned to you. They are yours and you can always use or sell them later. In addition, if it turns out they replaced a supposedly defective part when it was indeed functional (some will report false problems just for the business) you can request a refund for the purchased part, though not necessarily the cost of labor.
* Be aware that some repair shops will try to 'do you a favor' by installing their own copy of Windows instead of your own or the one you purchased. This almost always results in licensing issues with Microsoft reporting your copy is invalid. Never be talked into such situations and be sure to call Microsoft's toll-free hotline if Windows suddenly begins telling you your copy is pirated afterwards.
And remember, even reputable repair shops, such as Best Buy's Geek Squad, have been known to perform shady practices, so never assume it'll be alright. A little caution can go a long way, particularly with an investment such as a computer.
Hope this helps,
John
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Submitted by: John.Wilkinson
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Answer:
Protecting your investment: who do you trust?
The simplest answer to your question lies at the beginning of your computing experience. DO YOUR HOMEWORK! "Let the buyer beware!" is still the underlying anthem of retailers who do not let ethereal concepts such as ethical busines practice dissuade them from making a profit. Ask yourself what it is you need a computer for, and then what do you WANT it for. The answers are not always the same. Canvass your friends and take their advice with a grain of salt. People are not always willing to risk showing themselves to have being duped, so their system is almost always "great". If you do not currently have a computer, avail yourself of the local libraries and research the brand and companies you are leaning towards. Contact the Better Business Bureau to vet your list of possible vendors. Read the ads, read whatever computer magazines you can find. Visit the shops, either local or big box but be ready to make your decision at your pace and withstand the "the sale will be over tomorrow, or it's the last one..." etc. etc. DO NOT be pressured. If you feel pressure, do yourself a favour and take time to evaluate and re-evaluate what you are being told. Computers are not "one size fits all" and you want the best custom fit that you can afford... and always buy as much computer as you can afford. Having the resources today does not equate with having all you will need in six months or more into your computing future.
Ok, you made your choice, and it's home and ready to rumble, whether the set-up is on your own or provided by the vendor. You should have a listing of all components and peripherals at point of sale. If not, demand one. When you are up and running, run the system information component applicable to your operating system and compare notes. Print it for your records, that way, if you take it somewhere for service you can run the application again and compare. If possible take photos (digital or otherwise) capturing all the detail you can... serial numbers, model numbers etc. The interior of your case should not differ after service unless you know that you had new equipment installed or older items replaced.
The bottom line is... be a savvy consumer! Protect yourself. And remember.."If it sounds too good to be true, it likely is!"
Good Luck and Happy Computing!
John K. to John K.
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Submitted by: OLD BLUE
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Answer:
Sure you can tell . . . . . . . .
First of all go to: http://www.belarc.com/
They have a system inventory program, that will list were it can every card. Your motherboard/mainboard, hard disc drives, CD DVD/CD ROM's and burners, floppy, other storage device (such as flash drives, IOMega's). How many memory modules, what slots they are in so on so forth. Software and if it has a product number associated with it, even that is recorded. What version Windows operating system even an update number, what updates to the version of Windows you have. This information is displayed on a html page in your default browser, that can be printed out. Which is what should be done. Print up a couple of these listings.
Being as you are taking the computer in to be upgraded instead of you doing the upgrade yourself (yourself is the cheapest way to upgrade). It isn't going to be easy to tell, but it can be done.
Flashlight
Magnifying Glass
Portable Ultra Violet Light source
Invisible Ink Marker
Before you even take your computer to be upgraded do the following:
Take the cover off and one by one take your cards out of their respective slots one at a time, when you are done put it back in and take the next one out. Now you do not have take off any wires leave them on as you are not going to remove them. You are going to record the following;
make
model
serial number from if the cards have serial numbers.
If need be use the magnifying glass and the flashlight to see better.
At this point it would be a good time to use the Invisible Ink marker and mark your initials, or vehicle operator's number. Why the vehicle operators number and not Soc numbers!? Well with identity theft would you use your Soc Numbers? Besides your vehicle operators number does not vary by much from state to state. Mark on a non-conductive surface just to be safe, re-insert the card. Mark your hard drives, do not remove them as they can be real pistols to get back in. Mark on the side or end of the hard drive your initials, same with your CD or CD/DVD ROM's or burners. As far as memory modules go just mark them with the Invisible Ink someplace. Mark someplace on the motherboard/mainboard. Nice thing about Invisible Ink is that it does not show up on the surface to mar it up visibly. After you have marked the surfaces of your parts, check them out with the Ultra Violet light. This is how you would check out your computer after it came back from an upgrade or repair. The replaced part or repair will not have the markings. If parts have been removed and replaced with inferior parts, this is how you would tell. Now with the duplicate inventory listing, indicate where each card or board has been marked with the Invisible Ink, then file it away.
By doing the following you have taken one tooth out of the possibility of being cheated. This is the same technique that investigators use to make sure that the part has been replaced or the repairs are done on an item. If your computer has been stolen it will also come in handy when it is recovered. A caveat here; most home owner's insurance does not cover computers and related equipment. So what you might want to look into is a rider that would cover the computer equipment.
Like the auto repair business, at least in the state of Michigan, the repair service has to return the parts to the customer. The only time they do not is if the part is a core for a rebuilt part or like a transmission, it is too big but has to be seen by the owner to insure it was replaced. Well you can do the same, have the tech show you the parts that were or are replaced. In fact have them return the upgraded cards to you. With Good reason if the upgraded parts fail you have at least a temporary replacement. Unless the tech is going to give you some kind of break by using your part as a trade-in then I would demand that the cards be returned.
It is not that your tech is dishonest, but it will keep him honest. My Uncle had a saying; "Locks are there to keep honest people honest!"
A side note here: Those that are interested in genealogy will recognize what is being said here. The first three numbers on an operators license are what is called "sounddex" numbers, even from state to state. As an example my Michigan operators license has a sounddex of 200. Because my name starts out with "bu", same as the Presidents, which his state of Texas operators number would start out with B200
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Submitted by: tech_no_man