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Question

Computer starts, but no power to screen. / CPU_LED, DRAM_LED

Aug 26, 2017 6:03AM PDT

Hi! My problem is as follows:

I bought a PC in 2014, which is now having some issues. It all started around three months ago, when the computer startup seemed to be slower than usual, it took maybe 45 s compared to the usual 20ish. (Not sure if this is related to the current problem at hand)

Now, a couple weeks ago the computer didn't start at all when I pressed on the power button even after waiting for a long time. The power LED turns on, but there is no image coming to the screen. Additionally apparently there isn't any power coming to my keyboard and headphones either, since their LED lights won't turn on either. After turning it off and on a couple times, it turned on and functioned perfect. The same happened for about a week. Then the computer started to turn on well for a couple days as quick as new. But after a couple days of working, I now can't turn it on at all. Same issue as before, but this time even several attempts at trying to turn it on have failed.

I have tried turning it on using different accessories and also without them too, but it doesn't change anything.

When I try to start it up, CPU_LED and DRAM_LED lights blink on my motherboard inside the computer sequentially.

Any thoughts on how I could fix this? Is it in the software or hardware (or both)?

PSU: Coolermaster B500 500W
Memory: 120GB HyperX 3K SSD SATA III, 2.5", 55 + 1 TB Caviar Blue SATA III, 64MB
DVD: DRW-24F1ST
Cooler: True Spirit 90m Rev.A
RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) HyperX Fury, DDR3 1600MHz, CL10, 1.5V
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II OC, 2GB GDDR5
CPU: Haswell i5-4690K, LGA1150, 3.5GHz, 6MB
Motherboard: Z97-AR, LGA1150, Intel Z97, DDR3, ATX
Windows 10

Discussion is locked

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Answer
Make it smaller
Aug 26, 2017 6:27AM PDT

Psu+mobo+cpu/hsf.
If it does not power up your down to 3 parts.

Replace the cmos battery because it's cheap and easy.

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Answer
That 770...
Aug 26, 2017 9:00AM PDT

I see a TDP of 230W and it's getting old. It may be going south. If the machine is not starting at all, the i5 has graphics so remove the GPU and try onboard graphics. If that fails, try the usual CMOS battery (cheap at under a buck here) and then we are into deeper PC trouble shooting such as a Volt Meter on each rail of the PSU.

That 230W being close the +12V rating (12V1 is 24A and 12V2 is 21A) is too close.
The 12V2 max is 252W so as it ages the PSU loses capacity. Too bad the PSU was not a single rail model which keeps us out of trouble most of the time.

-> So if this was mine, I'd get out my Volt meter for CMOS and RAIL voltage checks then remove the GPU to see if the machine comes up.