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General discussion

Canon DSLR choice Help

Feb 8, 2010 5:00AM PST

I've recently decided to take my hobby of photography to the next level by maybe using it to supplement my income as a wedding photographer/portrait taker. I'm not a very technical person by any means, but I do know that I love the art of photography with a passion, and I'm willing to learn to get better.

Here's my predicament... To take this next step, I need to figure out what kind of camera + lens to purchase. I currently have and use a Canon Rebel Xti, but would like to make the transition to one of the following: Canon 40d, Canon 50d, or Canon 5D Mark II. For lens, I'm hoping to start with maybe the Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS or Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM IF Lens, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens, Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS UD Standard Zoom Lens, and eventually, hopefully the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about ANY of these lenses. I've garnered all my information on them from reviews on websites, and still have no idea which one is used for what, which one I'd HAVE to own for what I'm trying to do, or which is just the 'extra'...

Can anyone help please? Can you recommend what to start with and grow from? Unfortunately, I can't afford to spend too much money just yet. I believe that I can afford one really good camera (one of those mentioned above), and maybe one or two great lenses. Which is why I'm as confused as I am.

As I'm transitioning from the Rebel, do I go with something less professional than the Mark II to start, or as my budget can allow for it now, purchase the Mark II, and educate myself as I use it? Same with the lenses...

Thank you much for reading through and responding...!

Discussion is locked

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some suggestions

If you really want to do some wedding photography then be an assistant to a wedding photographer for awhile. I've done some weddings as an assistant, and most don't know what they're in for. You have to have two of everything, bodies, lens, flashes, etc., in case any of them fail. This is because you only have one chance for the shoot. You can't just say that you weren't able to do many shots because the body locked up or the memory card fried....that'll end you up in court with a lawsuit.

Really, if I were you and you want to be serious into photography, then I'd spend the money on some college or community photography courses. From the choice of lens that you think you'll get, it looks like you don't know what aperture is and how it affects exposure. Sorry if I'm wrong, but your choices are all slow lens(except for the 70-200 F2.Cool which means you probably don't know why you shouldn't use them for weddings.

You can buy better equipment, but the best upgrade is the ability of person behind the camera. You're money would be well spent in learning about photography. All of us had to go through it and it's not so bad.

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RE:
Feb 8, 2010 5:48AM PST

I agree with you 100% and have already sent emails to a number of professional wedding photographers in my area. I just need to build my starter kit so I can relate, that's all. I want to be able to learn some things to practice on my own and what not, and I just don't know what to buy.

I'm enrolled in two classes at a community college here, and have purchased a number of recommended books; I'm trying to learn all I can, I just want the right equipment to go along with said knowledge...

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OK

Don't worry about the slow lens that you mentioned. Also, don't worry about a main body until you are about ready to do some serious work. What you can do is buy a body now that will later become your backup body.

Right now, the best bang for the buck is the Canon 50D. The lenses will be determined on whether you plan to go full frame later.

Here is a great resource for you showing a choice of lenses for wedding photography. The same lens would make great portrait lens.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Wedding-Lens.aspx

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Just wanna say
Feb 10, 2010 5:33PM PST

excellent advise. I like photography too but I'm not planning to be a wedding photographer, nonetheless I find your advise excellent.

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FYI EF-S on 5DMkII is not a good eye dear.
Feb 8, 2010 9:42AM PST

>"...Canon 5D Mark II. For lens, I'm hoping to start with maybe the Canon EF-S 18-200mm..."

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Wedding/portrait photography
Feb 8, 2010 11:14AM PST

Agree with the above. You definitely want to polish up your skill and knowledge of photography before even attempting to do wedding photos. This is one of the most challenging type of photography, a lot of stress, time constrainst, constantly changing lighting condition, frequently suboptimal lighting. And it is a once-in-a-lifetime type of photos for the couples, certainly nobody wants to screw that up.

Here are some suggestions:
Canon 5D Mark II (upgrade to 1 series when you have money and use this one as backup)- you can do some short videos too
EF 24-70mm f/2.8L (tight budget may use the 24-105mm f/4L IS)
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II
EF 85mm f/1.2L
2 Canon Speedlite 580ex II with HONL complete kit
Canon remote flash transmitter or Pocket Wizard remote triggers
Gary Fong Inverted Dome Light sphere
Elinchrom Quadra kit with octabank
Tripod
Extra batteries
Lots of memory cards
Photoshop CS4
Portrait Professional 9 (quickly remove blemishes, and you can charge extra for <1 minute's work)

For studio shots, add the following:
Alien Bees strobes (get 3 if you can, these are the best values)
Get the remote triggers with Cyber commander (it has built-in flash meters)
2 umbrellas
A set of grids
Large soft box
Beauty dish
Strip light softbox
Light stands
Backdrops with stand or foldable backdrops if you have home studio
barndoor/snoots

If you are really on a budget:
Canon Xti
EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS (or EF 24-70mm f/2.8L but you won't have much wide angle and may need to add EF 17-40mm f/4L for larger groups), the problem with EF-S lens is that you can't use it when you upgrade to full frame which you will very likely do as a wedding pro
EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS (rent this one until you can afford it)
At least one Speedlite 580 ex II with HONL complete kit and Gary Fong Inverted Dome Light sphere

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Photo gears
Feb 9, 2010 10:36AM PST

Let me give a little extra explanation. For wedding or challenging lighting photography, the lenses and external lighting are more important than the camera body. There is not a whole lot the 50D can improve over the Rebel in wedding photos, unless you are shooting a running bride or sports theme.
So concentrate in getting the lenses, and you want larger aperture lenses with at least f/2.8. You should also get the most powerful external flash you can afford. In the case of Canon, the Speedlite 580 ex II. If you have extra money, then the Q-flash (from Quantum Instruments) is even better, which is what some pros use. You need a diffuser to soften the flash. The HONL kit has accessory snoot and other adaptors that modify/shape your light to create special effect, highlighting specific features of your choice.
The Elinchrom Quadra is a portable powerful strobe unit (400Ws) that can give you outdoor close-to-studio quality strobe effect. It is more light weight (but less powerful) than the Ranger or other portable units, light enough for you to carry without an assistant. The Octabank gives a very nice soft lighting, and it folds like an umbrella which is nice and easy to carry. This unit is probably nice to have for the pre-wedding outdoor on-location portraits, or if you set up a booth in the reception for some nice portraits of the guests. You can't carry this set up with you chasing after the bride and groom.
For the traditional studio portraits, the Elinchrom Quadra is not going to be powerful enough. Monolights are usually cheaper and powerful. The Alien Bees B1600 (640Ws) is more powerful than the Elinchrom Quadra, and is not expensive compared to the other high end brands. You can easily get 3 units. It has good quality and good value for those starting up. Studio lighting usually needs 3 or more lights (a main light, fill light and background/hair light). You can do with one but will have to use reflectors and deal with shadows. The studio lights use quite a bit of accessories to fine tune the lighting design. In general, if you want high quality studio photos, you should go for the strobes rather than the constant lighting. The hot tungsten lights are dangerous and uncomfortable, don't even think about those. The fluorescent or LED cool lights are too bright for your subjects to withstand for a hour or more. The Alien Bees remote triggers and Cyber commander is very easy to use, equipped with an incident flash meter and you can adjust the power of the strobes remotely from the commander mounted on the hotshoe of your camera.