Step 7. Heat shrinking the tint.
If the tint is coming away from the window at this point you can remove it and re-apply some more soapy water to the window then lay the tint back over it. Take your heat gun and clean rag and starting from the top briefly heat the tint and push any bubbles toward the bottom. As you do this you may see air pockets (fingers) appear, this is fine, continue working these toward the bottom of the window. Be sure not to leave the heat gun over the tint for too long as this will cause the tint to crease and burn. Once you’ve finished using the heat gun on the tint take your hard card, wrapped in a rag or paper towel, and smooth out the tint so it’s flush to the window.
Step 8. Applying the tint
Leave the tint stuck to the outside of the window and go to the inside. Roll the window down a small amount and spray the window with your soapy water again. Once applied take your squeegee and clean the window again by pulling the water from the window toward the right seal (don’t worry about all the water, cars drain water from behind this seal. Once cleaned apply another good layer of soapy water
Go back to your tint and remove the top half of the backing to expose the adhesive. Be sure only to peel away the top half to make the tint easier to work with. Take your spray bottle and apply a good layer of soapy water to the exposed adhesive, this will allow you to move the tint around as you apply it.
With your window rolled down about half an inch take your tint from the outside of the window and go ahead and line up the exposed sticky side of the tint with the top of the window. Once you’re happy with how the tint is lined up with the top of the window use one hand to lift the seals on the right and left enough to allow for the tint to slide underneath.
Once again spray your soapy water over the top of the tint (the part that has been stuck to the window) and use your squeegee or hard card to push the water to the side or out of the top (avoid the bottom which hasn’t been applied yet. Whilst performing this use one hand to keep the tint from moving, if the tint moves during this process it can be difficult to move back as the water has been squeegeed out.
Now roll the window back up, lift the tint that hasn’t yet been stuck down and spray a good layer of soapy water on the window (be sure to use a good amount otherwise fitment can be difficult). Use one hand to keep the stuck tint in place and the other to remove the remaining release layer film exposing the rest of the adhesive.
Spray more soapy water over the now exposed adhesive and then with one hand pull the bottom window seal away slightly and use the other to bend the tint very slightly allowing you to tuck it into the bottom seal, it is important you do not fold the tint too much here. Once the tint is happily tucked into the seals, spray over the top of the tint once more and take your squeegee or hard card to work the water out towards the sides and bottom of the window. Your tint should become fully flush with the window once dried. Should the tint still have air bubbles, respray it with your water and squeegee it down again. Be sure to never scrimp on the soapy water as this is what stops the tint from ripping.
Step-by-Step guide - How to tint car windows.
Albeit a time-consuming process tinting car windows can be achieved with a few tools you already likely have. Offering privacy, a cool look and protection from harmful UV Rays tinted windows are a popular modification regardless of whether it’s for your daily commuter or your weekend toy. Cutting the tint and applying it yourself can save you hundreds when compared with a tinting service. If you don’t have the patience to measure, cut and apply the tint yourself you can buy pre-cut tint kits, made specifically for your make and model of car, which still offer significant cost reductions when compared with a tinting service.
The equipment you’ll need.
A Roll of Window tint. You’ll need your tint ready at hand. We advise not scrimping on your tint vinyl. Good quality window tint is not only easier to fit, as it is less likely to rip during fitment, but also provides a longer lasting more professional finish. For your typical 4-door saloon you’ll need around 12ft x 36” of tint, Ideally you should measure your car windows prior to proceeding to ensure you have enough tint. Checkout how to measure how much tint you need for further information.
A Spray bottle. You’ll use the spray bottle with soapy water to clean down your windows but more importantly to allow for movement of the tint during fitment. An empty (thoroughly cleaned out) house held cleaning spray bottle can be used here.
House hold washing up liquid. Mixed with warm water the soap will ensure a slick and clean surface. Ensure you do not use Windex or any cleaner that contains ammonia as this will turn your tints purple.
A Razor blade. A sharp blade is used to clean grime and dirt from the window surface to allow for long-lasting adhesion.
2x Clean rags. Using a rag, preferably a microfiber cloth to ensure no lint is left behind, you’ll clean your windows and ensure that the tint sits flush with your windows.
A Hard card. You’ll use a hard card in conjunction with a heat gun (or hair dryer) to smooth out the ‘fingers’ you may find in the tint during application. A hard card is necessary however you may use a credit card shaped object wrapped in kitchen roll (to ensure the tint is not scratched) for application. We recommend wrapping your hard card in paper towel or a thin cloth to avoid scratches.
A Squeegee (optional). A squeegee will help you dry your windows. Although you can complete this guide without a squeegee we would strongly recommend using one.
A Stainless steel precision knife (optional). Although you can use a razor blade for cutting the tint, a precision knife is preferred for an easier and more precise cut.
Step 1. Find a clean and dry area.
Working inside or in a well sheltered area you can help stop debris getting stuck to your windows and tint helping you ensure you get a professional finish. If a sheltered or inside area is not available to you try to stick with applying the window tint on a day without wind.
Step 2. Prepare the windows with a clean.
Start with removing any decals or dealership stickers on the inside of your windows otherwise you will not be able to get a flush fit with the tints. Give your car a vacuum and a quick dust inside to remove any dirt or dust inside to once again ensure you get a professional flush finish.
Step 3. Clean the windows.
Using the soapy water and razor blade give your windows a thorough clean. If possible lower the window a few CM so the top can be cleaned. Mix three or four drops of washing up liquid with warm water in your spray bottle and give it a few shakes. Spray a layer of warm soapy water onto the window and use your razor blade to scrap away any dirt. Do this to inside and outside of the windows. Once done, if you rolled the window down, put the window back up and do the bottom area and then ensure that you’ve got all the edges and seals cleaned. When cleaning under the seals be sure to not slice the rubber with your razor blade.
Step 4. The final cleaning steps.
Take your clean rag and wipe the window down, if you have a squeegee use this first pushing the water toward the rear vertical seals. Once dried check that all dirt has been removed under the seals using your finger. Providing you’re happy that the windows are fully cleaned go ahead and roll the windows back up and top up your spray bottle for the next steps.
Step 5. Prepare the tint.
Spray the outside of the car window with your soapy water, this will allow the tint to stick to the window as you measure and cut it. Take your tint and roll it out to a size that covers more than the window with a few inches more than necessary, press it up against the window so the water can hold it and then cut it away from the tint roll using your precision knife or razor blade. Ensure that as you work the adhesive side is facing you as we’ll be cutting the tint from the outside of the car (the sticky side of the tint is the underside of the roll the same as sticky tape). Do NOT remove the peel layer at this stage.
Step 6. Cutting the tint.
With the tint you have cut out stuck to the window (with the soapy water) go ahead and spray another thin layer of soapy water onto the side of the film now facing you. Take your precision knife, or razor blade, and cut the bottom and left edges of the tint by using the edges of the window to trace along. As you trace the blade along the window seals use your free hand lightly to ensure that the tint is flush to the window. Once you’ve traced the bottom and left edges cut away the now loose tint from these sides (do not cut the right or top sides yet).
Pull the film you’ve just cut across the left side of the window to allow it to cover more than the window by 1”. This is done to ensure that your tint is large enough to cover every corner of the window including the parts under seals. Once pulled across go ahead and make sure the tint is flush to the window on the right-hand side and then cut along the right seal (do not cut the top yet). Once cut, center the tint so you have around half an inch overlapping on both the right and left sides.
Now pull the tint down around 1”, flatten the tint to ensure it’s flush at the bottom of the window and cut the bottom of the tint.
Finally to cut along the top edge of the tint lower your car window, if possible, by half an inch and cut along the top of the window. Whilst lowering the window try to lift the bottom of the tint slightly so it does not go into the door seal and the tint stays in place. Re-center the tint so you have around half an inch on each side, top and bottom. Check the corners of your tint to ensure there is no excess film, if there are small amount sticking out move them onto the window so you can cut them away cleanly.
.... Rest of guide available in further comments and at Miles of Motion's site
Note: Promo link removed by forum admin. To OP, thank you for this great how to!