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350 chevy carb intake to injection heads

How can I put my edlebrooke manifold and carb on a 350 Lst small block?

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Clarification Request
(NT) with the proper bolts

In reply to: 350 chevy carb intake to injection heads

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Sounds like

In reply to: 350 chevy carb intake to injection heads

You should take an auto shop class. Wink

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Answer
Edelbrock

In reply to: 350 chevy carb intake to injection heads

Hi, booboodada; This is a very common and fairly easy job. And, an excellent enhancement for the 350! You will have to drain the cooling system and remove the distributor (marking where the rotor is pointing on the dist. cap) and make a mark on the body of the distributor and a mark on the firewall to give you a reference when reinstalling. Remove old intake manifold, first noting where what wires and vacuum hoses went where. There are numbered labels you can buy, which would help, especially on the spark plug wires. Clean all of the engine block surface where the new intake gasket will sit. The only place that you will want to use silicone sealer is at the front and rear where the rubber seals go. None on the gaskets. Now, the important part comes. Aluminum manifolds have to be torqued in a different sequence than would otherwise be 'normal'. The sequence and torque spec should come with the manifold. Read and understand completely before you start tightening! Otherwise, you can break the manifold and that won't be covered under warranty, so be very careful and precise. You will now start reinstalling the parts that were removed from the old manifold. (distributor, coil, thermostat (new)), ect. Mount the new carburetor. This can be a bit of a pain, but, there should be brackets with the new carb for mounting
the throttle linkage or cable. The steel fuel line may or may not match up with the inlet on the carb. If you are VERY careful, you may be able to bend the line just enough to mate. I prefer to buy a new steel line and make my own bends (with a tubing bender). Back to the distributor.....Before reinstalling the distributor cap, make sure that the rotor is pointing to the same place on the cap as before. The distributor may not want to drop all of the way into place. This can be a tricky part. As the bottom gear on the distributor is beveled, it will turn a bit as it drops into place, which will cause the rotor to move, so you may have to pull the dist. back up a bit so you can turn the rotor back one tooth. (hard to describe....)

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Edelbrock (cont.)

In reply to: 350 chevy carb intake to injection heads

Ooops, I hit the enter button too soon. To continue...
I have had to have a helper "just tap" the starter while I'm holding downward hand pressure on the distributor so it will drop down. I did forget another important part. Before you get started with any of this, find the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and line it up at zero degrees on the timing pointer. I like to use 'White Out' liquid for my reference marks. Making certain that the distributor body and rotor are matching your marks and the timing mark is still lined up, it should be 'close enough' timing wise to start the engine. Have a helper start the engine and let it run for 5-10 seconds while watching for fuel leaks. Refill the cooling system, and keep filling as the engine runs. The coolant level will drop as it pushes air out of the engine, hoses, heater, ect. Once it is at operating temp, and you can see the water flowing in the radiator, you can now put the radiator cap on and watch for any possible leaks.
Then.......Connect your timing light and set the timing at the proper value. You will need to adjust the air/fuel mixture after all of the above is done. No leaks, everything tight, No leaks, No leaks, ect!
First, turn both A/F mix screws counter-clockwise about a full turn.
With the engine idling, you'll see A/F adjusting screws at the bottom of the carb. Very carefully, turn the first screw in about an 1/8 of a turn, incrementally, until the idle speed just begins to drop, then back out the screw about 1/8 of a turn. Do the exact same procedure on the second A/F screw. That will be your best lean idle. I cannot stress the importance of rechecking everything. Safety is always first! If you need any help, or if I left something out, feel free to reply.
Good luck to you and will be a great learning experience.
Loren

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