Hamilton Beach Set 'n Forget 6-Quart Programmable Slow Cooker review: Hamilton Beach's smart spin on a classic

Colin West McDonald/CNET

Whole chicken
We wanted to know how well each of the five slow cookers would cook a whole 5-pound chicken. First, we cooked them on High for four hours. All chickens with the exception of the Frigidaire were dry, the ones in the Breville and Ninja especially so.

Next we tried adjusting the cooking time down to three hours on High. The results were pretty similar. The Breville and Ninja chickens were still dry, the Hamilton Beach and Crock-Pot less so, while the Frigidaire chicken was just barely cooked to the safety standard of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. None of them really nailed this admittedly challenging test. You might get better results if you're willing to experiment, but prepare to burn through a lot of chicken to find the appropriate setting.

I also cooked a whole chicken using the Hamilton Beach Probe mode, where the slow cooker automatically switches to Warm when it reaches the preselected temperature. I periodically checked the probe temperature against the food thermometer we use in other testing and they were always within a couple degrees of each other. So, the good news is that the probe is accurate. You do still need to be careful, though. If you select 160 degrees as the desired temperature for your chicken, make sure to put the probe in a spot where you think it will cook the slowest. That way, you can feel confident that the rest of the chicken is also cooked to at least 160 degrees.

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Macaroni and cheese
We also tested how well the slow cookers would handle more delicate ingredients, so we found a slow-cooker macaroni and cheese recipe and set it on Low for six hours. Now, macaroni and cheese is delicious and not particularly hard to make, but this recipe did not turn out well with any of the five slow cookers. In all fairness, that was the fault of the recipe rather than the slow cookers in this case. The recipe required eggs and it really turned out more like an eggy noodle casserole than it did melty macaroni and cheese.

That's OK, though. The test was still very illuminating. It also confirmed our initial water boil test results. The Breville macaroni turned out very brown and overdone. The Ninja wasn't far behind. The Hamilton Beach and Crock-Pot looked a bit better, and the Frigidaire actually had a dark brown ring around it that confirms that it does tend to undercook on High and overcook on Low.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

Cannellini beans
We cooked the beans on Low for six hours, on High for three hours (plus two hours on warm mode), and then on High for three hours (plus two hours unplugged to see how well they retained heat without warm mode). After six hours on Low, the Breville beans were pretty mushy, again followed closely by the Ninja's beans. The Hamilton Beach, Crock-Pot, and Frigidaire beans landed in the middle, not significantly under- or overdone.

On High for three hours, the Breville and Ninja beans were less mushy, the Hamilton Beach and Crock-Pot beans came out a bit more al dente but still done, and the Frigidaire beans were undercooked.

We also wanted to see how the slow cookers held the heat with the beans on Warm mode. After two hours, the Hamilton Beach stayed the warmest at 181 degrees, with the Ninja close behind at 179.5 degrees, then the Frigidaire at 171.5 degrees, the Crock-Pot at 170 degrees, and the Breville at 147 degrees (the Breville doesn't include a Warm mode, so we simply turned it off and let it sit covered, where it held to a barely food safe 147 degrees).

Next, we wondered how well the other four slow cookers would retain heat compared to the Breville's 147 degrees. The Hamilton Beach was still at 156 degrees after 2 hours, the Crock-Pot dropped to 148.5 degrees, the Frigidaire to 144 degrees, the Breville to 140.5 degrees, and the Ninja came in dead last at 131 degrees. While the Breville did have a nearly 7 degree swing between the two tests, it was still above the "safe for consumption" temperature of 135 degrees. The Ninja was the only slow cooker that fell short here. But, some of them did hover pretty close to the line. So, if you have the option, I would suggest switching on the Warm mode, or at least monitoring the temp with a thermometer.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

Pot roast
We let the pot roast cook on Low for six hours. Each roast was fully cooked after the allotted time, but we all agreed that they had cooked very differently. The Breville and Ninja roasts cooked very quickly and bordered on overdone, the Hamilton Beach and Crock-Pot pot roasts were somewhere in the middle, and the Frigidaire's pot roast was on the lower end of done.

Conclusion
I really like this Hamilton Beach slow cooker. It offers all of the features I want from a slow cooker and none that I don't. I especially love the lid clips for easy transport as well as the thermometer probe. It also retained heat the best and comes with a serving spoon -- giving it an slight edge in features over the probe-less Crock-Pot model we tested. And it retains all of those desirable classic settings, too, such as Low, High, Warm, and Timer.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

If you can get past its awkward display panel layout, I think you'll appreciate the value, performance, and transportability of this $59.99 Hamilton Beach slow cooker. The Crock-Pot has a lower profile design, so if maintaining counter or cabinet tidiness is a big priority, you might have a look at that one instead. And if you want something a bit more fancy, the $199.80 Ninja is a decent, if less portable choice for its oven mode and other advanced cooking features.

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    Hamilton Beach Set 'n Forget 6 Qt. Programmable Slow Cooker

    Part Number: 33967
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    • Regional specs shown for US. UK specs are unavailable.

    • Special Features automatic cooking function
    • Appliance Accessories clip-on spoon
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