Hamilton Beach Smoothie Smart Blender review: This $40 model keeps it simple

I also made spinach pesto in the Hamilton Beach blender. To start, I added the spinach, walnuts, garlic cloves, cheese, and olive oil and then pulsed it 15 times. Each time it took about 60 pulses to get to a reasonable pesto consistency, but it was still a bit on the chunky side. Between every 15 pulses, I mixed the ingredients with a spatula to make sure that it blended the pesto evenly. It only took the Ninja 15 pulses to get a totally smooth, uniform sauce. So, while some of the more expensive models can act as food processors, the Hamilton Beach can't really compete on that level.

Megan Wollerton/CNET

Megan Wollerton/CNET

Almonds

The more powerful blenders, like the Ninja, the Blendtec, and the Vitamix all claim to be able to make nut butters. This is a more challenging, less common use for a blender, but it was definitely worth testing on all seven models. First, I tried to make almond flour -- a precursor to almond butter. Then, if the Hamilton Beach was successful, I would try to make almond butter.

True to form, the three most powerful models all did incredibly well, producing perfect almond flour and smooth almond butter in under 10 minutes. The Hamilton Beach made great almond flour with no fuss, while the Cuisinart was unable to produce anything but the chunkiest flour with large bits of almonds still intact. So in this case, the Hamilton Beach actually outperformed a $200 model. Overall, though, it couldn't make the transition to almond butter (and neither could the Cuisinart).

Megan Wollerton/CNET

Whipped cream

If you don't have a mixer and want to make whipped cream, a blender is a surprisingly acceptable method. Each one made passable whipped cream, but the Hamilton Beach's was the "loosest." Typically you look for stiffness in whipped cream, so that's not a great result, but it still tasted great, so I'm not really complaining.

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Pancake batter

I judge successfully blended pancake batter based on how much unblended batter gunk was on the bottom of the pitcher after each test. At first, the Hamilton Beach appeared to do extremely well, but when I poured out the contents, there was some pancake mix stuck to the bottom. This could easily be remedied with a spatula and a slightly longer blend time, but if it requires that much effort, why not just mix it manually from the start?

Megan Wollerton/CNET

Most of the other blenders responded in much the same way. The Breville left less batter gunk than the Hamilton Beach, and the Blendtec has a dedicated "batter" preset that worked flawlessly. Basically all of these blenders can make batter, but you might have to use a spatula with the Hamilton Beach before it's perfect. Who's getting hungry?

Cheese

I chucked an 8-ounce block of cheddar into the Hamilton Beach to see what would happen. I know that most of you don't plan to shred entire blocks of cheese in a blender, but I wanted to test its power and overall badassness. Unfortunately, it did not get very far on this test.

For the first few moments after the blades turned on it chopped some of the cheese into smaller bits. After that, though, the rest of the block got wedged in the bottom and the motor just wasn't powerful enough to cut through the cheese. Instead, the remaining cheese hunk rested comfortably inside the pitcher, while the blades rotated wildly without getting close.

Both the KitchenAid and Breville blenders won this test by a long shot. I didn't expect any of this cheese to be edible, as the more powerful blenders like the Ninja, the Blendtec, and the Vitamix completely pulverized the cheese into very tiny bits that began to melt as the blender warmed up and ended up caked to the bottom of the container. The KitchenAid and the Breville actually turned the block into larger, more edible shredded-cheese-esque pieces.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

Conclusion
I was pretty impressed with this $40 pint-size blender. It was definitely the underdog starting out given that the next closest in price is the $149 KitchenAid. As a result, I didn't have incredibly high expectations for the Hamilton Beach. But I am glad to be wrong.

No, it didn't outperform any blenders per se, but it did perform on par with the $200 Cuisinart, and given the value of the Hamilton Beach, I consider that a huge success. I would definitely recommend this $40 blender over the $200 Cuisinart if you're looking for the most basic of blendering. That includes pureeing soups, making batter, whipped cream, smoothies, and so on. These simple and relatively basic recipes with "softer" ingredients will do just fine. It might take longer than some of the other models, but if you use your blender only occasionally or don't mind waiting an extra minute or two, this is a very good option.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

If you plan to use a blender more often and expect to blend some more "challenging" things, consider either the Breville or the KitchenAid. Both cost $200 and both did very well on most tests. But, if you use your blender all the time, prepare food for a lot of people, or simply want a top-of-the-line machine, consider the Ninja. It has a lot of features and it's huge, so you better want it to be a fixture on your counter because that thing is hard to budge. And if you plan to start a small catering company or other enterprise, consider the more commercial-capable and extremely powerful Blendtec or Vitamix.

So, it really depends on your cooking needs and, of course, your budget. And if budget is a large factor, the cute, durable, and mostly capable Hamilton Beach is a solid blender. But that's about it.

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