Cuisinart CSO-300 Combo Steam + Convection Oven review: Versatile cooking for expensive tastes

This content is rated TV-MA, and is for viewers 18 years or older. Are you of age?
Sorry, you are not old enough to view this content.
  •  
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6

CNET Editors' Rating

3.5 stars Very good
  • Overall: 7.8
  • Performance: 7.0
  • Usability: 9.0
  • Features: 8.0
  • Maintenance: 7.0

Average User Rating

5 stars 1 user review
Review Date:
Updated on:

The Good With multiple steam cooking settings, the CSO-300 successfully expands the functionality of the common toaster oven, and it sports a luxurious, easy-to-use interface, as well.

The Bad At $299, that new steam functionality doesn’t come cheap. On more traditional settings like toasting and broiling, the CSO-300 couldn’t consistently beat the less expensive competition, and when it did, it usually wasn’t by much.

The Bottom Line Creative home chefs looking for a powerful, versatile alternative to their full-size oven should give the CSO-300 first consideration, but those just looking for something to heat up Pop-Tarts and Red Barons should stick with something less expensive.

Editors' Top PicksSee All

The kitchen is one of the most upgradable rooms of the house, and Cuisinart would love for you to consider upgrading your toaster oven. The company's top offering, the sleek CSO-300 Combo Steam + Convection Oven, promises to bring the power of steam to your countertop, transforming your standard toaster oven into a more multidimensional cooking contraption. But that expanded functionality comes at a price -- $299, to be exact. If you think $299 is a lot to spend on a toaster oven, you'd be correct, but Cuisinart would argue that the CSO-300 isn't just a toaster oven, and they'd be correct, too. You'll never be able to steam cook a passable rice pilaf from scratch in a standard toaster oven the way you can in the CSO-300.

Personally, I'm not sure that rice pilaf gets me excited enough to want to spend $300. That said, if you've already decided that you want to splurge on a high-end toaster oven, then you've certainly got a few good-looking options. Some of these, like the Breville Smart Oven, will whip up bubbly pizza and golden-brown bagels just as well as the CSO-300 does, if not better. However, none of them can match Cuisinart's steam functionality, and for that reason alone, the CSO-300 is my high-end toaster oven of choice.

Colin West McDonald/CNET

Usability
With its hefty price tag, the CSO-300 sets a high bar for itself when it comes to appearances. Given the money you'll have to spend to own one, you're naturally going to expect it to be one of the best-looking, most solidly constructed toaster ovens available. Fortunately, Cuisinart passes the test, as the CSO-300 is about as beautiful and well-built as kitchen appliances get. Its vivid blue LCD screen, brushed stainless-steel exterior, and illuminated dial all give it a classy, high-end sheen that no competitor can quite match. On looks alone, it was our unanimous favorite.

It feels like a quality piece of hardware, too. There's no rattling or creaking when you open and shut the door. The dial offers smooth, reassuring clicks as you turn it from option to option. The plastic 1.4-liter water reservoir doesn't feel flimsy when you take it out and put it back in. This will be something of a luxury purchase for most shoppers, and Cuisinart seems very aware of the fact, since the CSO-300 feels appropriately luxurious.

Using the CSO-300 is nearly effortless. The knob presents you with a semicircular array of nine cooking modes, each one with its own icon and default settings. It's a surprisingly intuitive machine given its expansive functionality, and much easier to work with than toaster ovens that use multiple knobs and buttons. The CSO-300 will even automatically detect how warm the oven is at the start and adjust the cooking time accordingly. If your roommate made toast just before you and the oven is still warm, then your toast won't take quite as long.

No matter what mode you use, the CSO-300 will work with the timer, automatically killing the heat as soon as it reaches zero. There's no way to leave it on indefinitely, which is a reassuring safety feature in case you ever forget that you're using it. You can set the timer for up to two hours, and if you need to cook for longer than that, you can always add more time midcycle.

Features
The CSO-300 was a steady enough performer in our basic testing, but it failed to truly distinguish itself from the competition. That's where its steam power comes in, because the CSO-300 can cook things that no other toaster oven can, things like rice, fresh doughnuts, and delicate cuts of fish. If you take a look in the recipe book that comes packaged with the CSO-300, you'll find recipes for dishes like homemade soft pretzels, steamed pork buns, and even an indoor clambake. The CSO-300's versatility is the ace up its sleeve.

The CSO-300 will cook a pot of rice to perfection in about 30 minutes. Ry Crist/CNET

In our tests, the steam cooking modes worked perfectly. Simply pull out the reservoir, unscrew the cap, fill it with water, and return it to the base -- just like that, you're ready to cook with steam. With four separate steam modes, each of which can be adjusted and customized, that's a lot of new functionality to play with. There's the previously described steam baking mode, ideal for roast chicken. Steam broil mode will let you cook foods like meat and veggies at a high temperature without anything getting too dry. Steam mode is great for basic, lower-temperature steaming, and super steam mode is what you'll want to use to cook rice.

I found that the CSO-300 will, in fact, cook a great pot of rice. The instructions recommends steaming your rice for 20 to 25 minutes, but the ideal time was more like 30 to 35 minutes. Still, I was impressed. For meats and other, more complicated dishes, you can even add a little bit of wine or any other liquid to the baking pan, then steam the flavor directly into your meal.

The CSO-300's steam settings can also help resuscitate last night's dinner. Ry Crist/CNET

The steam settings are also ideal for reheating leftovers, especially when there's sauce involved. I brought in some homemade manicotti from the night before. Using the CSO-300, I was able to reheat it in less than 15 minutes, and with pretty remarkable results. The sauce was the perfect consistency and the noodles were nice and tender, not at all crunchy and overdone like they might have turned out in a standard toaster oven, and not soggy either, as you'd get in a microwave. Even the delicate ricotta filling came out tasting fresh. I also used the steam settings to reheat some leftover frozen pizza, and honestly thought that it came out tasting even better than the first time around.

Comparative performance
If you're going to buy a high-end toaster oven, you want to know that it's going to cook the foods you love to satisfaction, and in our expansive run of tests, the CSO-300 did an admirably steady job versus the competition. Taste is a subjective thing, making it difficult to say that it cooks food any better or worse than another model, but in terms of doneness and consistency, the CSO-300 hit its marks time and time again.

Ry Crist/CNET

The first thing that you would expect a toaster oven to be able to handle is toast. Surprisingly, not every model that we tested made toast as effortlessly as you might imagine (I'm guessing you can spot the problem child in the chart above.) Fortunately, the CSO-300 didn't give us any real trouble here. It offers you seven different darkness settings, and for the most part, all seven accurately hit the mark. The one snag: consistency was a problem when starting from a hot oven versus starting from a cold one. The timer adjusted automatically when the oven was hot to start with, shortening the cooking time, as it's supposed to. However, sometimes it seemed to shorten it too much, causing the toast to undercook just a little. This wasn't an issue that we saw in other, longer tests, which makes sense -- the short cook time of toast makes it more susceptible to this kind of variance. In the end, it's a minor issue, and at any rate, we're happy that the CSO-300 errs on the side of undercooking and not overcooking. No one likes burnt toast.

Ry Crist/CNET

Editors' Top PicksSee All

 

Join the discussion

Conversation powered by Livefyre