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LN52A750 (52" LCD) clicks on & off continuously

by Mogly406 / May 3, 2010 10:26 PM PDT

Hello - I have an LN52A750 (LN52A750R1FXZA manufactured 9/08) that has the dreaded power on issue where it constantly cycles by clicking on and off, but never boots up. I have read that many other people on this forum have the same issue with the problem being blown/leaking cap's on the main power board. The first thing I did was call Samsung, but they are unwilling to honor any type of repair since my tv is a few months out of warranty (purchased 1/09), regardless of the fact that this is a widespread problem. Anyway, there are tons of diy capacitor replacement for these Samsung tv's on the web, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I took the back cover off of my tv last night, but in my case, all of the cap's look good (no buldging at all, tops still flat, no evidence of leaking). Could this still possibly be a cap issue even though they look good? When my tv failed, it was sudden. Up to yesterday it has never had a problem. Yesterday we watched a show, turned it off for an hour or so, and then tried to turn it on again and the problem started. It has not powered up since and I've let it do its clicking cycle for up to 15 minutes numerous times. It seems others have had more of a gradual failure with it powering up after clicking for 5 minutes or so and getting worse over a period of weeks. Do this indicate mine being a different problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I don't have hundreds of dollars to spend for a tech repair. Thanks, Jay.

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reply
by mruss73 / July 5, 2010 8:45 AM PDT

I have the same tv and problem what did you do to get it fixed?

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Ditto
by daddyblue252 / July 20, 2011 4:51 AM PDT

Mine started two days ago without warning. Checked board and no evidence of a damaged capacitor. If you learn of anything please let me know.

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Let's hope they post back.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / July 20, 2011 5:27 AM PDT
In reply to: Ditto

If you follow this forum you rarely see discussions about what board or chip. That is, no TV repair techs seem to offer advice. If TV repair is your business, I'd find a TV repair forum.
Bob

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Samsung Helped
by daddyblue252 / July 20, 2011 9:00 AM PDT

Chatted with Samsung this morning and they agreed to have all the capacitors replaced. Not sure if this will remedy the problem as the capacitors appear to be in good working order.

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Samsung is doing this for most for free.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / July 20, 2011 9:49 AM PDT
In reply to: Samsung Helped

I'd take them up on the offer. The tech might reveal what next!

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Yup
by daddyblue252 / July 20, 2011 11:11 AM PDT

I did take the offer but I am VERY skeptical.

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(NT) Think of the alternative?
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / July 20, 2011 11:23 AM PDT
In reply to: Yup
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Did Samsung Cap Replacement Work?
by amery64 / November 28, 2011 8:37 AM PST

Hey Daddyblue252,

Did the cap replacement fix your problem? I ask because two days ago my LN52A750 (purchased 8/2008) did the exact same thing! It worked flawlessly for three years. Powered it off and the next time it was turned on, it began cycling on/off automatically any time the cord is plugged into the wall. I tired unplugging it for 30 minutes, but again cycles when plugged in. It comes on with the red LED flashing, plays the Samsung power-up tune, backlight turns on, but no picture. It stays on for about 10 seconds and then abruptly turns off like cutting the power and then immediately trys to power on again...It does this over and over...

My caps look OK (no bulging) or admornal appearance. I have two 1000uF@25V , twp 1000uF@16V, and two 470uF@25V types, but some of the 1000uF measure a bit low with an LCR meter (905uF @ 100Hz test). The 470uF measure 450uF@100Hz.

The Samsung service tech is coming to my home 12/1/2011 to replace the caps free of charge as part of a one time service. I have a feeling the caps are not my problem, maybe the main board worst case....what was your end fix?

Carl

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Samsung Service Tech visited 11/30
by amery64 / November 30, 2011 12:15 PM PST

Well the tech came today (one day earlier than expected) which was good service. However this is where it ended. I had removed all the electrolytic caps on my IP board and measured them with an LCR. They were all within 10% of the rated value and no bulging. The Samsung tech simply changed the four 1000uF caps and had me sign his work order. No change in symptoms. He said he thought it was the main board after he disconnected the long ribbon cable from the LCD board noting that the symptoms were still the same. He said my best bet was Ebay for $100. Samsung charge ~$500 to replace the main board. A quick internet search revealed that this main board is in high demand and "out of stock" in all four places that advertized it.

I measured many of the voltages and clocks on the main board and they all look normal. The more I think about this, I am beginning to wonder if the automatic HDMI detect turn circuit is part of the problem. My son was watching a disk in the BlueRay player, turned it all off, and left the house. when my wife came home, she tried to turn on the TV and thats when it all began...on a sunny (no transient - lightning) day. It really looks as if the firmware is corrupt causing the watchdog to timeout, not a failed/shorted part.

Where can I get a service manual for a LN52A750?

Hey, Mogly406,
What was your outcome? Your problem looks identical to mine.

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Samsung Service Tech visited 11/30
by Samsung_HD_Tech Samsung staff / December 1, 2011 7:08 AM PST

mery64 -

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Does your schematic Include T-Con and IP boards?
by amery64 / December 1, 2011 9:35 PM PST

I downloaded the service manual from http://www.servicemanuals.net/ yeaterday, but it did not include the schematics for T-CON and IP Boards. Does your manual include all the PCB boards with the TV?

Thanks,
Carl

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Does your schematic Include T-Con and IP boards?
by Samsung_HD_Tech Samsung staff / December 5, 2011 2:23 AM PST

amery64 -

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Service manual needed for Samsung Flat Screen TV
by erh530 / December 14, 2011 4:59 AM PST
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Samsung Service Tech 2nd visit 12/21, and my results.
by amery64 / March 3, 2012 10:36 AM PST

I haven't had time to update this post until now, so I thought I would catch everyone up. While the Samsung Technician was at my home 2011-11-30 for the capacitor procedure, he replaced ONLY the four 1000uF with new capacitors and reinstalled all the other caps I had removed and tested. That's right, instead of installing new capacitors, he put back the old ones. Before he replaced the 1000uFs, he had me sign an electronic form stating I would be responsible for all further repairs (parts & labor) related to this problem if the capacitors do not fix it. Hmmm, that was strange, but I had to sign it. Not a problem for me since I could get the main board for ~$130 online with a 6 month warranty from 2 or 3 online stores when it was in stock (...popular item). What about the poor sap that had to pay $500.00 for the Samsung repair!

The tech left and I sat with my broken TV and my schematic determined to troubleshoot the cause. Over the next week I solder tacked 19 small wires on key signals and voltages. Armed with a multimeter, oscilloscope, and a 16 channel logic analyzer I zeroed in on one IC that controlled the power sequencing and reset. It was apparent that the heart of the main board is a small micro controller (MICOM) WT61P6S combined with a 2K AT24C02 Atmel serial EEPROM which controls the following:
+ power-on/off
+ monitors voltage levels
+ IR remote and perimeter touch buttons
+ communicates with two main processors (A1F & A1B) over a simple UART
+ Issues reset signals to the main processors and other system.
+ Audio control
+ HDMI Identifier

What I discovered was that all the voltages were all within normal limits including those on the main processors. The DDR memory on the two processors was active and appeared to be functioning fine and all clock signals were stable and active. What I found strange was that the watchdog timer in the MICOM was timing out every 29.4 seconds, turn off for 5 seconds, and then turn back on for another 29.4 seconds. On the oscilloscope, you could see the SW_POWER (turns on & off TV) signal pin on the MICOM (PD1) go Hi-Z briefly (mid-rail voltage) and then get configured as an output to drive the signal at full voltage for another 29.4 seconds. All I had to do was plug the TV in and it started cycling on and off automatically.

I measured and /or disabled all other signals from the MICOM one by one to isolate the cause. The last suspect was the MICOM code. What I determined was that the firmware in the AT24C02 seriel EEPROM was somehow corrupted or bad data written to the EEPROM caused the MICOM to enter an undefined state which eventually caused it to time out (no watchdog kick) and reset. When I ground the clock signal to the EEPROM, the TV will not start at all, but during the 29 seconds, I see plenty of data between the EEPROM and MICOM. Again, all other circuits appeared and measured normal. No overheating ICs or bad or missing clock signals.

In any case, I was now convinced that this was a software problem caused by my son powering off the TV off while the Blu-ray was playing which may have caused the AnyNet+ feature to write (or not write) incorrect data to non-volatile memory. When my wife turned the TV back on an hour later, it would play the Samsung startup melody, would not power up fully (black screen w/ backlight), and began cycling.....over and over.

While I was waiting for one of the three on-line vendors (ie. shoppjimmy.com, rivervalleyelectronics.net) to get the main board back in stock, I surfed around on Samsung's own web site and stumbled upon a very important tip in the "Troubleshooting Guide" for my specific TV titled:

"LN52A750R1F TV Turns Off and On Continuously"
In it they described my issue exactly and recommended a firmware update that was released October 2008 to resolve the issue. I purchased my TV August 2008 (built in June '08). The last paragraph said "If your TV is turning on and off continuously and you are unable to install the firmware then your TV WILL REQUIRE SERVICE to resolve the issue". Basically Samsung is acknowledging that there is a software problem causing the On/Off cycling which needs the new firmware to correct. If you can't power up the TV, you can't load the firmware through the USB port on the TV. This to me amounts to a Samsung-admitted RECALL to change the main board free of charge!

On December 7th 2011, I picked up the phone a called Samsung customer service and explained that the service tech came out 11/30 and replaced the capacitors, and also mentioned the Troubleshoot Guide firmware issue I found on the Samsung web site. He responded by insisting that the web site I was looking at was a third party site, not the Samsung official site. He then reminded me that I had signed the form accepting all financial responsibility for repairs other than the capacitors for this power on/off cycling problem. I offered to send him the web link and even offered to guide him to it so he could verify it himself. He flat out refused to let me show him and stood firm. I'm now PO'ed so I got forceful and said I didn't care what I signed and that Samsung basically admitted the firmware problem so they should fix my TV for free as a recall for this obvious design flaw. It was dead quiet for a few seconds, then I said "you obviously aren't going to help so I need to talk to someone who can - your manager" He put me on hold for 5 minutes and then came back and said Samsung would activate a warranty window (parts and labor) to fix my TV free of charge.

December 21st, 2011, the Samsung repair tech replaced the main board like I expected and the TV worked fine. I removed all the wires on the old board and he took it with him. No doubt, Samsung will probably slap it in a test fixture and directly reprogram the 2k EEPROM using the factory test points on the PCB and it will work fine again....for someone else's TV...with the same issue! I'm just glad I got it fixed for free, but I had to fall back to my 22" TV for almost a month. Surprisingly, the firmware in the new main board is newer (higher # = 1014.0, 2009-05-22) than the downloadable upgrade from Samsung's web site (October 2008 release 1012.2) so you know they still needed to tweak for other issues...

Now we have both hardware and software contributing to defective stuff. Consider if all electronics have software running them, what percentage of failures are just bad software code instead of an actual hardware failures. If it's any conciliation, Samsung settled its class action law suit on February 23rd 2012. It seems they agreed to fix all TVs purchased before December 31st 2008 and give up to $300 to each TV owner experiencing power cycling problem. Hey, where is my $300 bucks...for pain (dealing with Samsung customer service), suffering (no TV), and compensation for my troubleshooting abilities!

Conclusion:
If you have an LN52A750 (or 40, 46) with a manufacturers date in 2008, turn off the Anynet+ feature IMMEDIATELY or risk ending up in my situation. You will just have to change the input source with the remote instead of automatic source switching. My profession and abilities armed me with facts to build a case for a free repair. Most of you would be stuck with a $130 to $500 repair bill for a TV you bought 3 years ago for $2200!

Good Luck!

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Samsung repaired mine
by newmytitanic / September 8, 2011 7:09 AM PDT

LN52A750R1FX2C puchased 12/11/08 manufactured 11/30/08

Contacted Samsung service and they quickly and politely arranged to have a technician come to my home and repair it under an "extended" warranty.

Kudos to Samsung for standing behind their products! They acknowledged the problem was caused by substandard capacitors on the power board and repaired my set to my complete satisfaction in no time.

To those that rant and rave at Samsung, note that many other manufacturers have the same issue with their products --- not just LCD TVs. Have patience with their support people and you may be rewarded.

It takes a long time and costs a great deal of money to restore a bad reputation once it has been lost --- a lot longer than it took to gain a good reputation ---- just ask Toyota!

Happy Samsung customer in Victoria. BC, Canada.

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Warrenty
by kliguore / December 2, 2011 1:28 AM PST
In reply to: Samsung repaired mine

Hello newmytitanic, and anyone else out there who wants to weigh in on this.

I have a Samsung 46"(model 4665) that I purchased about 4 years ago. It first began with a pixel problem about 6 months ago. There would be some spots on the screen when it was truned on, but a simple off/on and they would clear up, usually with just one off/on. Then at about the same time I noticed that some times it would click on/off, like it was trying to come on, then it would come on the 2nd time. Now it has just begun taking 3 times of clicking, before it comes on.

My question is, has anyone had any luck with getting Samsung to pay for it. I noticed that newmytitanic said they honored their "extended" warrenty. I did not purchase an extended warrenty, so does that mean that Samsung will do nothing? Is there a good number to call to get any response from Samsung?

I've read were people have replaced capacitors, but that sounds pretty tough to do. I may try that when the TV doesn't come on at all.

I've read where it can cost as much as $400.00 for a tech to "fix" the problem(new power supply, motherboard?). That may not be worth it when you can buy the same, or better TV now for $1000.00 or less.

Any thoughts, advice, help, is greatly appreciated.

Kevin

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Well discussed.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 2, 2011 1:35 AM PST
In reply to: Warrenty

"And to answer your question, no we did not make lot on these repairs. 100 to 150 on average for this easy fixes.

Samsung were not looking to pull fast one."
http://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7403

If you get a quote for 400, they are making too much.
Bob

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Samsung Fixed
by kliguore / December 5, 2011 9:14 AM PST
In reply to: Well discussed.

Repeating my info from previous entry:

I have a Samsung 46"(model 4665) that I purchased about 4 years ago. It
first began with a pixel problem about 6 months ago. There would be some
spots on the screen when it was truned on, but a simple off/on and they
would clear up, usually with just one off/on. Then at about the same
time I noticed that some times it would click on/off, like it was trying
to come on, then it would come on the 2nd time. Now it has just begun
taking 3 times of clicking, before it comes on.

New:

After calling a couple of local(San Luis Obispo area) service shops, I took it into a place that I felt knew the problem best after talking to them on the phone. They ended up replacing all 4 capacitors on the power supply with slightly more powerful ones(?), and also re-soldering the light inverters. It cost $140.00. It seems to have fixed the issues, although I've only used it for about 2 days so far. It comes on the first time, with no pixel issue.

Thanks for all the information on this forum. I felt like I had a good idea about the problem and what it would take to fix it. I even thought about doing in myself after reading some of the how-to posts out there. I figured I should play it safe this time and get a professional to do it while the TV still had some more good years in it.

Kevin

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140$ is in my opinion a good deal for the work.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 5, 2011 9:46 AM PST
In reply to: Samsung Fixed

Thanks for sharing this. Nice touch as to the other solder work.

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Samsung Will Not Repair unless under court order
by brodenborn / March 14, 2012 4:57 AM PDT
In reply to: Samsung repaired mine

The only reason Samsung was so gracious as to repair you TV is because they got sued for making faulty products. For reasons unknown, the class action lawsuit they settled was limited to TV's manufactured prior to 1/1/2009. My LN52A750R1XZA had the exact same capacitor problem identified in the lawsuit and Samsung refused to pay for the repair. I had to eat the cost myself. Their customer support kept telling me they COULD NOT make the repair because it was not covered under the lawsuit. No, that just means you DO NOT HAVE to make the repair so they refused. I climbed as many heads in customer support as I could and got the same response. They only made these TV's for maybe the first half of 2009, but probably only for another 3 months. Mine was manufactured in March 2009 with the same crap capacitors (I actually think the specs were wrong) so they failed (bulged) and my TV starting doing the on-off dance. They sent repair guys out quickly and the repair was taken care of for $130 bucks so the cost was not that bad, but I will NEVER BUY A SAMSUNG PRODUCT AGAIN. I made the point repeatedly to them that they will lose more than $130 by losing me as a customer (anyone want to buy a Samsung cell phone). For all you Apple haters out there, this is why I am a loyal Apple customer. Similar situation: my 2008 Macbook Pro had a bad NVIDIA video card soldered into the motherboard. It was out of warranty, but rather than losing a class action lawsuit, Apple just fixed it and kept me as a customer. I guess that's why Apple is not making any money these days.

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I hope you keep researching.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / March 18, 2012 3:09 AM PDT
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Samung lost lawsuit, will send repairman for free
by billegeek / March 15, 2012 5:28 AM PDT

Samsung just lost the lawsuit for the 10V rated capacitors they put on 12V powerboard. The capacitors ramp up the current to turn on the TV, and rated too low, eventually fail. It's for certain models.
Go to
www.samsung.com/capacitorsettlement, or 888-899-7602
You may be able to get the TV repaired for free.
The clicking is the retry on the power board after it fails. It will continually try to turn on, but the capacitors have trouble supplying the required voltage. To check yourself, remove the back, you'll see bad capacitor tops bowed upward, maybe some black tar leaking also. They'll be labeled 10V on a 12V rated board.

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Some LCD's You can get repaired for free
by DeanGutierrez / September 23, 2012 1:27 AM PDT

Called Samsung and they took care of the issue (so far) I have a Model LN-T5271F (52" LCD) purchased 1/12/08. It's well out of warranty, but I guess the capacitor issue I've been reading about is covered under a limited warranty/settlement.

Samsung just lost the lawsuit for the 10V rated capacitors they put on 12V power-board. The capacitors ramp up the current to turn on the TV, and rated too low, eventually fail. It's for certain models.

Go to
http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/

or 888-899-7602

You may be able to get the TV repaired for free.

The clicking is the retry on the power board after it fails. It will continually try to turn on, but the capacitors have trouble supplying the required voltage. To check yourself, remove the back, you'll see bad capacitor tops bowed upward, maybe some black tar leaking also. They'll be labeled 10V on a 12V rated board.

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samsung ln52a750r1f Have this exact same model!crackedscreen
by cheesyweesi / November 22, 2012 2:27 PM PST

This is for everybody in this thread. I have this exact same model. unfortunetely with a cracked screen.have been tryin to look for a replacement screen. cant find anything. so if anyone is interested i can sell you parts for this tv. message me or comment .. and i will post parts on ebay. PAYPAL only please.

Thanks for reading.

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class action results?
by SecurityThor / March 17, 2014 5:19 AM PDT

Has anyone had success getting Samsung to repair this dreaded power on/off cycle problem? Mine just started acting up this week, and we bought it in May 2008. I'd love to have Samsung repair without charging me a bundle.

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See this for a confirmed FIX...
by sheath18 / October 16, 2014 7:45 PM PDT

OK, if you read down the thread, you'll see a post from amery64, timestamp - 3/3/12 6:36 PM (In Reply to: Service manual needed for Samsung Flat Screen TV by erh530).

He has a LOT of great data about actually describing the issue and actual tech hands (his) with scope on circuits. I can confirm his suspicions. There are multiple issues that can make the TV cycle power over and over. Let me explain.

My TV started its issue a few days ago. When you tried to power up the entertainment system, the TV would start the normal power up. The status light would start to flash, then the "power up" tune would play. Then, PRIOR TO EVER SEEING BACKLIGHT OR THE INPUT NOTICE IN THE UPPER LEFT CORNER (where it shows the HDMI1 or whatever input it is tuning to) appears, it would click (audible relay-type click), then shut off. After about a 5 second delay, it would start this cycle over again.

This is different from the videos I found on the capacitor/power board issue. In those videos that actually showed the power issues, it appears the TV comes up far enough to turn on the backlight, and may even get to the input marker in the corner, then shut back off, then repeat the cycle. No guarantee this is the case, but it made me realize the capacitors was likely NOT my issue.

When amery64 did the analysis and said he felt like it was an Anynet+ issue, that struck a chord. My wife was having an issue with a Blueray in the Playstation that was directly connected to the TV just a few days ago. Hindsight made me think it was probably the day before we first saw the problem on our set.

OK, more on my issue:

When power would just cycle, waiting did not work, it would cycle indefinitely. However, it did NOT start until we tried to turn on the TV. Some report the issue with the capacitors start as soon as you plug in the TV. Not the case here. It's off until we tried to turn it on.

I played with the buttons, mashing them as the TV would try to come up, and found that repeatedly pressing buttons during the whole boot sequence seemed to work to get the TV to fully boot. Yes, I got my to turn on about 4 days in a row using this method, while researching the fix. It seems to be a timing thing - if you hit the right button at the right time...

I don't have enough data to fully confirm (and can't get more, since my TV is now FIXED - Happy ), but I think the button that worked for me every time was the "+" button (third from the top). However, my wife thinks she got it once using the "menu" button, but this is suspect, because she said she used the 2nd one down, called "Input", but that is actually the top button, so not sure what she did. I do think it was the "+" button for me every time, though.

Now, to the fix.

amery64 was totally correct in my opinion - the issue is with the Anynet+ corrupting the firmware on the TV. As I said, my wife had issues with a blueray on the PS3 and was rapidly switching between inputs, turning on/off devices, etc. That's where my firmware got corrupted, most certainly. I believe the issue first surfaced the very next time I tried to turn on the TV.

So, after reading his thread, and the service note he found, I jumped to Samsung's site and downloaded the latest firmware. Directions say to unzip to a USB drive, insert it into the USB port on the TV, then use the menu on the TV to get to the Update Firmware option and reflash the TV. TOTALLY SOLVED MY ISSUE.

Of course, you have to get the TV operational to flash it, but using the button technique, I got it running again in about 2 minutes of trying, and flashed away. Now the problem is gone. Power up/down functions perfectly.

As a precaution, I followed the advice and turned off the Anynet+ setting. I can manually switch the input (but it was cool when I would toss something from phone/tablet to the Chromecast and the TV would come on and switch inputs automagically).

One other key to success - you have to have a USB drive formatted to FAT32, not NTFS or ExFAT. I had a 64GB drive that was ExFAT and it would NOT work. Tried three different SD cards, in two different brands. Was about to order a new main board for the TV when I ran across a note that said it must be FAT16 or FAT32 in the firmware instructions from Samsung. Grabbed and old 8GB thumbdrive, confirmed it was FAT32, and unzipped the file to it, then flashed the TV. Worked like a charm. Flash process only takes 15-20 seconds. It shuts down the TV 3 seconds after installation, and reboots. Came up like a champ. I've cycled power off/on about 25 times since then (over the course of a day) and never a hiccup.

So, think through your problem - is it possible it is an Anynet+ issue that corrupted your firmware? I think the note mentions it can be if power gets cycled on the TV while a BRay is still playing. We definitely did that.

Do you get a few seconds of up time (with backlight and Input showing in the left corner)? If so, probably NOT this issue/fix. Look to the capacitors.

However, read what everyone says. If the capacitors don't work, the tech replaces the motherboard/main board. Guess what that does - replaces the EEPROM on the board too, which means you get fresh firmware. Duh, I bet half the "replacements" could have been fixed with a thumbdrive instead (assuming you can time the buttons right to get the TV to start, like I could. Either way, I'd try this in every case before ordering a main board (if you can get it to run).

Not sure about the age of the post, but wanted to share what I learned.

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Two types of issues - you need to determine which you have
by sheath18 / October 16, 2014 7:50 PM PDT

OK, if you read down the thread, you'll see a post from amery64, timestamp - 3/3/12 6:36 PM (In Reply to: Service manual needed for Samsung Flat Screen TV by erh530).

He has a LOT of great data about actually describing the issue and actual tech hands (his) with scope on circuits. I can confirm his suspicions. There are multiple issues that can make the TV cycle power over and over. Let me explain.

My TV started its issue a few days ago. When you tried to power up the entertainment system, the TV would start the normal power up. The status light would start to flash, then the "power up" tune would play. Then, PRIOR TO EVER SEEING BACKLIGHT OR THE INPUT NOTICE IN THE UPPER LEFT CORNER (where it shows the HDMI1 or whatever input it is tuning to) appears, it would click (audible relay-type click), then shut off. After about a 5 second delay, it would start this cycle over again.

This is different from the videos I found on the capacitor/power board issue. In those videos that actually showed the power issues, it appears the TV comes up far enough to turn on the backlight, and may even get to the input marker in the corner, then shut back off, then repeat the cycle. No guarantee this is the case, but it made me realize the capacitors was likely NOT my issue.

When amery64 did the analysis and said he felt like it was an Anynet+ issue, that struck a chord. My wife was having an issue with a Blueray in the Playstation that was directly connected to the TV just a few days ago. Hindsight made me think it was probably the day before we first saw the problem on our set.

OK, more on my issue:

When power would just cycle, waiting did not work, it would cycle indefinitely. However, it did NOT start until we tried to turn on the TV. Some report the issue with the capacitors start as soon as you plug in the TV. Not the case here. It's off until we tried to turn it on.

I played with the buttons, mashing them as the TV would try to come up, and found that repeatedly pressing buttons during the whole boot sequence seemed to work to get the TV to fully boot. Yes, I got my to turn on about 4 days in a row using this method, while researching the fix. It seems to be a timing thing - if you hit the right button at the right time...

I don't have enough data to fully confirm (and can't get more, since my TV is now FIXED - Happy ), but I think the button that worked for me every time was the "+" button (third from the top). However, my wife thinks she got it once using the "menu" button, but this is suspect, because she said she used the 2nd one down, called "Input", but that is actually the top button, so not sure what she did. I do think it was the "+" button for me every time, though.

Now, to the fix.

amery64 was totally correct in my opinion - the issue is with the Anynet+ corrupting the firmware on the TV. As I said, my wife had issues with a blueray on the PS3 and was rapidly switching between inputs, turning on/off devices, etc. That's where my firmware got corrupted, most certainly. I believe the issue first surfaced the very next time I tried to turn on the TV.

So, after reading his thread, and the service note he found, I jumped to Samsung's site and downloaded the latest firmware. Directions say to unzip to a USB drive, insert it into the USB port on the TV, then use the menu on the TV to get to the Update Firmware option and reflash the TV. TOTALLY SOLVED MY ISSUE.

Of course, you have to get the TV operational to flash it, but using the button technique, I got it running again in about 2 minutes of trying, and flashed away. Now the problem is gone. Power up/down functions perfectly.

As a precaution, I followed the advice and turned off the Anynet+ setting. I can manually switch the input (but it was cool when I would toss something from phone/tablet to the Chromecast and the TV would come on and switch inputs automagically).

One other key to success - you have to have a USB drive formatted to FAT32, not NTFS or ExFAT. I had a 64GB drive that was ExFAT and it would NOT work. Tried three different SD cards, in two different brands. Was about to order a new main board for the TV when I ran across a note that said it must be FAT16 or FAT32 in the firmware instructions from Samsung. Grabbed and old 8GB thumbdrive, confirmed it was FAT32, and unzipped the file to it, then flashed the TV. Worked like a charm. Flash process only takes 15-20 seconds. It shuts down the TV 3 seconds after installation, and reboots. Came up like a champ. I've cycled power off/on about 25 times since then (over the course of a day) and never a hiccup.

So, think through your problem - is it possible it is an Anynet+ issue that corrupted your firmware? I think the note mentions it can be if power gets cycled on the TV while a BRay is still playing. We definitely did that.

Do you get a few seconds of up time (with backlight and Input showing in the left corner)? If so, probably NOT this issue/fix. Look to the capacitors.

However, read what everyone says. If the capacitors don't work, the tech replaces the motherboard/main board. Guess what that does - replaces the EEPROM on the board too, which means you get fresh firmware. Duh, I bet half the "replacements" could have been fixed with a thumbdrive instead (assuming you can time the buttons right to get the TV to start, like I could. Either way, I'd try this in every case before ordering a main board (if you can get it to run).

Not sure about the age of the post, but wanted to share what I learned.

Collapse -
you tube fix
by bill0055 / January 15, 2015 11:07 PM PST

Hi All,

I know this is an old thread/discussion, but this is what i found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg

I own a 52in model. So far it has only cut on and off by itself once. So i guess when it comes time to repair...ANYONE can do it. Good Luck!

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