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I see we all survived the end of the world. What a

by Ziks511 / December 23, 2012 9:18 AM PST

disappointment !! No light show, no Pink Floyd, no Choirs of Angels doing Thomas Tallis 40 part Motet, Spem in Alium (which is about as celestial or heavenly as music can get), nor any Carmina Burana, Carl Orff's meditation on Medieval music. I mean, I deferred grocery shopping until today, Sunday, in the hope I wouldn't have to do it. Now I have to clean the apartment, and take out the garbage too. Very frustrating.

I lieu of the End of the World which, by the way, was used as a loop by one radio station in order to give its staff the day off for Christmas shopping, may I wish everyone here, a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. See you on the flip side.

Rob

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My water heater didn't survive.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 23, 2012 9:57 AM PST

It's been many years but a store long ago used to push these out at 99 bucks each. How much is 99 bucks in 1975 worth today?

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(NT) Try $500.00
by Diana Forum moderator / December 23, 2012 12:47 PM PST
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The new one w/ 12 year warranty was 629.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 24, 2012 6:04 AM PST
In reply to: Try $500.00

529 for the 8 year warranty so you are surprisingly close. I didn't ask how much to install today. It seems I do this yearly for family and friends and about every decade for the house we are in at the time.

Thanks,
Bob

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In my town, you need to pay for a city permit
by Steven Haninger / December 24, 2012 6:17 AM PST

for a contractor to install your water heater. You can do it yourself without a permit. If you ask for an installation quote, however, the price doesn't include the permit. I believe the last quote I got for installation was about 250 bucks. That was 8 to ten years ago. I put my own water heaters in but it's rather a pain getting rid of the dead body.

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Oddly enough since I'm in the sticks so to speak
by Roger NC / December 24, 2012 6:24 AM PST

here you just put it beside the road and someone hauls it off. I know they don't throw it in the regular trash truck, so maybe that crew reports it to someone else.

They charge you a landfill fee when you buy it.

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So far, ours can be picked up but you
by Steven Haninger / December 24, 2012 7:47 AM PST

need to call ahead and schedule. You put it by the road and the city contracted service will pick it up if some scapper doesn't beat them to it. Draining an old heat that's full of lime is a mess. Unless you're the Arnold, you can't just pick it up and walk out with it. Mine is in a basement. I'm not a strapping 20 year old anymore so the job isn't as easy as it was when we first moved in. I'm on my 4th heater now.

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last one I changed was out the door then shoved
by Roger NC / December 24, 2012 7:56 AM PST

down the steps. After I got it on the ground, I tied a rope around and dragged it to the road side. It drained so slow I still had slurry in it when I shoved it down the steps.

That was after a rare (here) 6 inch snow.

Here, I'd probably ask my neighbor for help getting in and out with one, he's still in his 40's.

Durn it, that reminds me, I bought a timer for my hotwater heater and haven't installed it. I may end up "working" on Christmas day since my family is getting together Friday afternoon/evening. Durn procrastination.

Have a merry Christmas day.

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All done.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 24, 2012 9:15 AM PST

Have to wait a few days to go get a copper elbow as the T&P relief move on the new models but that's optional.

Back in my last town Guido took the dead body for 50 bucks. They used to pick up with a tag but now you get to deliver it to the dump and buy the tag there. Actually it goes to recycling but you pay now.
Bob

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I changed mine about three years ago and
by Diana Forum moderator / December 24, 2012 9:09 AM PST

my son installed it. Had to turn the water off. Whoever installed this on had it pouring water out of both pipes depending on which way you turned the turn-off valve. He fixed that too.

Diana

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Make sure you have a gate valve or other type of shutoff
by Steven Haninger / December 24, 2012 10:23 PM PST

on the cold water inlet side. You need the type that can take the heat of your torch if you're going to sweat solder. Any water in the pipes prevents proper heating of the joint and you must let the solder connection cool slowly so the metal doesn't crystallize. Having that valve at the water heater might let you get away without turning off the main valve but you still can't use water while the pipes are cut. Your main valve is critical in that it's seldom used and prone to leaking after being turned on and off if you've got the older types using rubber innards. You don't want to shut that valve off and find that it needs to be replaced. Don't do this on a day when your water department isn't available to help in an emergency.

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since you obviously know a bit of plumbing
by Roger NC / December 25, 2012 1:33 AM PST

want to ask if you heard of a trick with pvc fittings screwing into a metal female connection.

I was changing a hot water heater, had trouble getting the screw in PVC fitting not to leak, telfon tape no help. An old mechanic at work told me to put the PVC glue on the fitting before screwing it in. It won't truly bond to the metal, but the PVC glue also softens the PVC a bit, so screwing a PVC into a metal female fitting the PVC fitting actually deforms a bit to completely fill the threads and not leak.

It seem to work, but I've only done it once. Any experience with this?

Of course, this house is all plex, which means buying tools the first time I go to change any plumbing other than faucets etc. that have screw on connectors.

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Sorry but no PVC experience other than
by Steven Haninger / December 25, 2012 1:57 AM PST

for gutter drainage. I do suspect you need to wait a while longer for bonding than with sweat soldering. There are various Teflon pipe thread sealers out there and some are meant for different uses like gas or hot water. I've never really been able threaded metal pipe to be completely leak proof. Heating and cooling may be part of the problem. Generally I see a small leak to self-seal after a while. I don't know if it forms a plug made of debris or the force exerted at the taper eventually distorts the metal enough to seal. I'm not a plumber but have worked with copper, brass, galvanized and black pipe. So far, no basement floods or gas explosions. We learn by making mistakes and I've made my share.

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I remember that.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 25, 2012 2:01 AM PST

It's an old plumbers trick. I saw it long ago as he slathered on the glue. It seemed excessive and as he was not the usual gruff plumber I remember the story. But it was long ago so the only thing I really remember is he used a lot.
Bob

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I'll do the same with copper and brass joints
by Steven Haninger / December 25, 2012 2:20 AM PST
In reply to: I remember that.

especially if the pieces have already been used. I'll clean and resin the threads and wick in a little solder after they're tightened. It's probably not code but it's my house.

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Pipe Fitter's Compound or Pipe Putty in the old days
by Ziks511 / December 27, 2012 12:06 PM PST

of cast iron pipes was used to seal joints. I haven't seen it since I was a kid, replaced by Teflon tape and copper and brass plumbing and now PVC and polyethylene flexible piping. I suspect that PVC glue fills the same niche and has other uses besides.

Rob

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The putty is still available but it's not a
by Steven Haninger / December 27, 2012 6:44 PM PST

pressure sealant. It's used to fill gaps under such as sink drain hardware to prevent leakage. It's benefit is that it doesn't harden.

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(NT) Yeap, done that.
by Roger NC / December 27, 2012 8:12 PM PST
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(NT) I use silicone exclusively now for that
by James Denison / December 28, 2012 12:49 AM PST
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sweating/soldier copper pipes so they hold up
by Roger NC / December 25, 2012 2:02 AM PST

is an art form.

Watch the guys at work working on a/c lines and know I'd have trouble ever getting it right the first time.

I've done water lines, but that was years ago, I'd make a mess of it now I'm sure.

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Some work recommends brazing
by Steven Haninger / December 25, 2012 2:31 AM PST

I've not done that. You work with MAPP gas which is much hotter and I don't believe you use solder paste and you heat the connection to cherry red. I mean to try that sometime. You'll do with repairing high pressure lines such as in your air conditioner. You can do that with standard copper plumbing but I'd be careful to make sure your work wasn't near framing lumber. I used to keep asbestos sheets around as backing insulation when working within walls replacing tub and shower fixtures but haven't had to do that in a while.

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they do some brazing
by Roger NC / December 25, 2012 4:29 AM PST

but more silver soldier type. They've gotten some special rods for that work, some alloy specifically for copper and/or bronze and use those a lot.

I've done non-plumbing brazing in the past using a regular acetyline/oxygen rig with small size tips.

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All gated.
by R. Proffitt Forum moderator / December 25, 2012 2:03 AM PST

I was lucky in that the cold inlet had a shutoff so the water to the rest of the home was still on, but cold only.

It was one of those small leaks so out with the wet+dry vac to hasten the drying.
Bob

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You missed the party?
by Roger NC / December 23, 2012 10:48 AM PST

There will be a reunion in 4012, don't miss it.

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(NT) Thought it was 3012
by Diana Forum moderator / December 23, 2012 12:46 PM PST
In reply to: You missed the party?
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(NT) That was the other party that won't be here in 4012.
by Steven Haninger / December 23, 2012 11:09 PM PST
In reply to: Thought it was 3012
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On God's green earth
by crowsfoot / March 19, 2014 1:11 PM PDT

can there really be only one kind of money? One money for those who work and the very self-same money for those's who's money sits and waits for more money? That's two very specific and different activities.

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