22 total posts
This looks like a fairly new PC.
Given the story, looks like it's in warranty. Is there more to the story such as self-built, no warranty, etc?
And 600 Watts could be slim if that's not a single RAIL PSU. Who designed and made this box?
Did you try it with the cover off?
Is this a new build or ???
Or did it just start after X months ?
Using the stock HS FAN ?
The PC is new (everything besides graphic card was bought around August 2012 and the graphic card is nearly "2 months old") I have built the pc completely and everything was working fine. Yes everything started after few months ( + I forgot to mention if it is necessary: processor is AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition also around August 2012). And yes I am using stock HS FAN, even the one I got with this processor, but it is not a good one imo, it works as it should though. I don't know, my graphic card runs fine and when the "turning" off happens, the sound of something I play gets stuck like some broken recorder and the monitor goes into sleeping mode, so I can't do anything. Also when I try to turn on my pc sometimes, it starts but display doesn't show up and PC does some weird beeps, it's like 1 long 2 short beeps, but they sometimes beep differently... it's like a little longer beep and 2 like almost unnoticable beeps, so I don't really know. I was trying to fix it through many ways but I can't find any solution at the moment. :/
Is it running now ?
If yes....have you checked the system/CPU temps ?
If not...download PCWizard, install it, run and minimize it. You'll see the system temps in the upper right hand corner of your monitor. This should give you a sense of the SYSTEM/CPU and GPU temps.
Have you checked the system event logs ?
I have checked the temos using the PCWizard and the temps for CPU were around 45-50°C, System was 45-60°C and GPU temp was 37-50°C (those max temps are mostly when playing some new games).
Also where exactly shall I check in the system event logs? I have found something in security I think and it was this: Audit events have been dropped by the transport. 0
Might it be something with driver or idk what? Or might it be some problem with the current w7 (64-bit) updates? I have installed my drivers using the cds included. Or when I tried downloading latest drivers on this site http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx using the options 1st: Desktop Graphics 2nd: Radeon HD Series 3rd: Radeon HD 7xxx series PCIe 4th: Windows 7 - 64 bit then I guess it is the correct driver, isn't it? (I couldn't start PC earlier because it was beeping, so I'm on notebook atm, I have tried removing graphic card and setting it back, started PC and selected "startup repair" on the boot menu. After the repair finished there was written that the fix couldn't be done and it showed up some problem 7 I think: Bad driver. (But the monitor shut down and PC "freeze" occured even with formatted disks when I was trying to reinstall windows 7 before.)
Graphic sound conflicts motherboard sound?
Ok guys, (sorry for 2 post). (by the way here is the PC wizard + sorry for my default language I hope you will understand everything anyway)
It might be possibly a conflict between graphic sound and the MB sound device or something similar ( I'm not an expert), I have tried disabling onboard sound (on Bios) and windows was running, there wasn't any turning off, so I have tried uninstalling the Digital audio HDMI for ATI, restarted PC, turned on the onboard sound, but the Digital audio HDMI for ATI installed itself again and this is what I got, some spam of it in my audio devices.
(also currently even in the catalyst http://i48.tinypic.com/mvkz0x.png)
But wait, before the uninstallation it looked like this http://i46.tinypic.com/2rrqsds.png Realtek HDMI Output is not connected but turned on, speakers are on and those last two are ready and turned on.
After I uninstalled the HDMI output, restarted windows (the output installed itself as I said) it looks like this:
I have turned off everything, but the speakers and the PC seems to be running at the moment, you never know what might happen next. So I'd like to see some feedback what might be the problem, I will post a result after few hours or one day if the monitor keeps turning off (and sound gets stuck with it). If nothing happens then I guess it was a sound conflict.
The PC does the same thing after few hours again... I don't know what's the problem.
Looks like some of those voltage readings are a
a little out of spec.....esp the 3.3V line which shows 2.9V. Are you overclocking ? If yes, go back to the standard settings and see how it runs,
Ok...are those system/CPU TEMP at idle ? On my i860 ...they all register around 30C.
PS...Don't forget those system/CPU temps will remain on the screen for viewing if you minimize PCWizard so you can run a game and see how fast and how far the temps rise under load.
I don't overclock anything I'm 100% sure, all the components are on standard and those temps are not at idle, but when I play some game, idle temps are around 38°C-43°C, gpu goes from 36 and max was something nearly 50°C. I'm pretty sure it is nothing temp related, I just tried to turn on my pc, tried the startup repair option again, after it was done I couldn't start my pc at all, there were some strange looping beeps, like 1 "middle-long" and 2 very short beeps, I can see the case running but the windows/monitor won't start at all. Might it be some BIOS/voltage problem?
Ok re the GPU but what about the CPU temps while you're
gaming. One of the PICs showed all the CPU cores at 50c ...was that at idle ? If yes... what does it show during gaming ??
Did you try a CLEAR CMOS ?
Those 50°C temps are when I'm gaming, that's what it shows and I can't double-check it because I'm not able to access windows (with my PC) at all. And yeah I was thinking about clearing the CMOS, I will try to do something so I can see the monitor, because I can't even access the booting phase. So is it a voltage problem?
3.3V at 2.9 would have me back at the maker's support to get it fixed.
I have loaded default settings through the BIOS option and this is how it looks like: http://i48.tinypic.com/zirsye.png
No failure so far, but I think it will start happening again.
I gotta ask.
Why were these changed? Sometimes you get those overclockers and you can't help them.
If I knew.
I have no idea why it has changed. I only removed graphic card, connected it back and I did the same with the power supply cables, loaded the default settings and this is what showed up.
So is the graphic card still OUT?
If so that points to a PSU that is not capable of supplying enough power. I only have your posts to work with for clues.
Graphic card is in.
The graphic is back in there, but I don't understand why it was capable to supply enough of power before, because this was not happening back then. Shouldn't be 600watts enough to supply the power anyway? I doubt there is something damaged in PSU, I mean it serves like 4 months only.
No. Here's why (about the PSU before and after)
A PSU ages. It also can have RAILS. If it has RAILS then your computer may be pushing a RAIL very hard and just like me taking your car on the oval track at 120MPH it won't be long till it fails.
More about aging. The age issue is only a year or two. That is a PC can be fine when new and as time passes the usual ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS age and the PSU can't deal with the load. You also encounter corrosion on the connections so sometimes a simple unplug and plug it back in will correct a cranky PC.
This is why you should see advice to get a single rail PSU and run the PSU at about 50% of it's maximum load. So a 600 Wat SINGLE RAIL PSU should read about 300 Watts on a Watt Meter. If this PSU is a split rail then we have more work to do to see AMPERES for the devices and make sure no rail is over the 50% mark.
Some folk don't do this work and the result is evident with millions of cranky PCs.
Well, the PSU is idd a single rail psu and I understand, however aren't those voltage numbers more correct this time? And what choices do I exactly have to..."fix" this problem? Do I really have to either get it to some service and repair it or buy another PSU? :/ Isn't there anything to do so I don't have to pay for repairs/new PSU?
First, please please please.
Please post details. Otherwise I have to guess and give multiple answers and longer explanations which slows this down or derails the discussion.
At a date of August 2012 it's in warranty so you deal with it's maker and get them to correct what's wrong. If it's something that was built, parts selected by you then you ask for advice on what parts to change.
-> You already SCRUBBED some contacts by unplugging and plugging things in. And new gear can have oxidation on the pins and connections so only those very new to electronics think it should work when you plug it in.
FINALLY your choice on 600 Watts might be too slim. Read what they put on their test setups to test the 7750 at http://www.hardwarereview.net/Reviews/ATI%20Radeon%207770/AMD_Radeon_HD7770.htm#Test%20Setup
That's 750 Watts on one and 1000 Watts on the other. Your PC has less.
My best advice is to copy machines that you find in reviews at anandtech, tomshardware and such that gave good scores and reviews.
Many days have passed through since I've loaded the standards settings using the BIOS booting and the PC is still stable, no unexpected shutdown/crash has occured so far it goes as smooth as butter + I'd say the PSU is good enough for this setup. There must have been some problem in the BIOS settings only I guess. I hope the PSU will last as much as it can and will keep up the good work so far. (Also I do not have any temperature probs at all)