I would also ask @ ecoustics- here:
I see you also posted @ tomshardware. That's good too. Also try AVS forum-
I moved to the Philippines this year and my bose system (Companion 3 Multimedia Speaker System) was delivered this week. STUPID me I forgot to plug it into my transformer (220V standard outlet here) so it stopped working right away and I have NO ACCESS to a Bose repair center . I would assume the main issue is a bad fuse in the Acoustimass module. On other forums I have seen people fix blown soldered fuses in different models of Acoustimass units so I assume I have the same type of fuse to deal with.
Anyway, I'm asking around to find out how to open this unit so I can replace the fuse myself. I heard in some units there is a hidden locking system that needs to be flipped and buttons need to be popped off. I have taken out the screws but it won't open up (due to some flip lock apparently). I don't know what the quartersized wood piece with two holes on the bottom is for but it doesn't move with slight pressure. I thought it was best to leave it alone until I got some directions. People say the lock switch is hidden in the seams (where there is wood and plastic meeting) but I don't see anything. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to pry a little bit before something POPS out or what. It's recommended to use a flat head screw driver to access it.
If anyone has a clue how to open this thing please let me know.
Here are photos of the module for reference.
*I don't know if image links are allowed on this forum so I'll upload the photos directly later if the link is deleted*
I didn't see this article in my searches. Unfortunately, SIGH, turns out I have the Companion 3 Series II . The eHow article explains that you have a few simple screws to remove under the sticker. Well Bose got smart and replaced it with a quarter sized metal plate with two holes (not wood like I said in the photo) in it for a specialized tool, most likely a custom drill bit. I tried taking 2 thin pieces of metal and inserting them and twisting both CCW and CW. Figured it wouldn't be below them to make the unscrewing motion CW to fool the DIY repair man as a last stand before entering the module. Thanks for the help though. I'll email that author of the article to see if he could help me out with this updated module.
Ya I posted at all three of those forums and waaaay more haha. My next idea was to contact a 3rd party Bose repair centers to see if any would throw me a bone.
I have the same issue due to power surge. It fried the surge protector and blew the fuse inside the speaker. I was able to pull it apart but I need to know where you bought the fuse if you did. Been trying to find a place on the net to no avail. Will try Radio Shack next. Any help will be highly appreciated. Thx in advance.
Here are the specs.
Variant Fuse Rating
220-240 -> T1.60A L,250V
100/120V -> T3.15A L,258V
I use Radio Shack, Amazon, Jameco, Digikey and other sources but the long and short story is when I can't find an exact same fit part I go for same or higher voltage rating and 20 some odd percent on the amperes.
Why so lax on amperes? I'm sure they covered that the exact point it blows depends on the current temperature the fuse is at.
Thank you for reply. I checked with Radio Shack and Amazon they didn't have the same exact fuse. The one in Bose has a filament like in a light bulb. I am confused about the "variant fuse rating" with two different numbers. It has wires coming out of both ends that are soldered to the board.
1. 220-240 -> T1.60A L,250V
2. 100/120V -> T3.15A L,250V
Found both ratings but in 2 separate fuses at Radio Shack.
Should I go with the first rating or the second one?
I can't tell what the original rating was.
I don't want to upset you but any 1st year electronics student should be able to get this done.
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