But with a microscope you can verify that burning at top speeds of say 40X and higher versus 2X does show up as one having a visible advantage. This visible advantage can make the same media play in one player but not another.
So for my car, I just let it burn at 2X since I can let it do its thing and have a slightly longer lasting CDR.
Hope this helps,
Not a lot have been discussed, I believe, about the best method to have music files burned into CD music format. In this respect, some help regarding the method of download (bit-rates, etc), or ripping off commercial CD's using what formats that will ensure CD qualifty, type of hardware to use (some forums have certain recommendations about brand of CD burners, etc), speed of burn rate (some say do it at the slowest e.g. 1X or less), firmware (best virgin CD for music - or would any cheap CD-R do?). Additionally, would available RAM or hard-disk space affect the burning process? What about buffering, error corrections, etc? It's a mad, mad world out there for a CD-Burning enthusiast!
Remembering that most PC owners are also hifi buffs, these finalised CD's are more often than not, use in their mega-bucks hifi set up. I do that too, though it's arguable if my hifi set-up is mega-bucks - respectable would be the phrase. I believe this is the final test of the burning process - whether such "DIY" CD is equivalent to (or better than?)widely available commerical CD's