Rafe and Tom talk about how to keep your data accessible no matter where you are; Syncing, remote access, and so on.
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So you have a computer somewhere else. Maybe at home when you’re at work. Maybe at home when you’re on vacation. Maybe in your beach house, who knows? What’s the best way to keep your data with you when you’re in two places.
How can you be two places at once?
One solution is to just carry it with you. Netbooks make it easier to carry a laptop computer around. But you may run out of space in which case…
Store it in the cloud
But if you’re going to store it online anyway, and you have computers at all locations, why lug one around when you can use the cloud… leading to
Your data is accessible anywhere you go as long as you have an Internet connection… oh and you trust the data providers not lose your data.
Which leads us back to the old fashioned way. You just leave all the data on one computer and do…
You have to leave the computer on all the time and you still need Internet access at both ends, but this solution leaves success and failure in your hands.
Windows REmote Desktop (on enterprise server or via WHS)
segdaniel April 7, 2009 7:30 PM PDT Ritz went into a chapter 11, this does not mean all stores are closing. I work for a store in Dallas and we are remaining open. Less than half of our stores are closing, all of the major stores doing good business will remain open
joeyjoeyjoey April 8, 2009 6:46 PM PDT I hear the “I don’t use flash” or only “natural light because flash is not natural” statement a lot. And I find those that say these are photographers that don’t know or haven’t taken the time to understand and use flash properly. And just like a lot of podcast that attempts to talk about photography episode 156 was no exception to this.
Using proper technique of balancing ambient and flash, bouncing or taking it off camera with modifiers you can achieve photographs that “natural light” photographers would swear was shot without flash.
It takes time to understand how to use flash properly and maybe instead of just slamming the use of flash people interested in photography should actually learn how to use a flash gun properly.
After all photography is all about light, regardless if it comes 93 millions miles away or from a couple of AA battery powered speedlight/lites. Light is light. Improve the quality of light and learn to flash.
There is something very, very important that you guys forgot, and it is a very critical point:
backwards lens compatibility, and lens compatibility. There are very many people that think that the best lenses [namely, Olympus and Cosina] can be used with any camera. Which is not true.
It isn?t as well that any lens made for a brand [bought at garage sales] can be used with current dSLR?s. Nor Nikon, nor Canon, nor Olympus can use older lenses. Only Sony can use Konica-Minolta lenses [the latest ones] and Pentax can use old lenses [Pentax has, indeed, the best by far backward lens compatibility due to the lens mount].
I have to disagree about the IS system: the very best [as far as I know in real world tests] is the Olympus system.
Then, about pro cameras.
The real pro camera market is getting very interesting. Hasselblad, Phase One, Mamiya, and now Pentax and Leica are heading to bump the pro camera market. They have the biggest sensors around, and will produce spectacular results. Canon, Nikon and Sony are quite some steps behind, still, and not really up to the mark in that sense.
Finally, there is a brand which provides an open source RAW file format: Pentax.
Pentax offers the option of shooting the proprietary format [which still is open source] PEF OR Adobe?s open DNG digital negative. That is the reason why buying a Pentax camera will not imply to update your raw development software [called, as well, the yearly photoshop tax].
All in all, my recommendation for a camera around 1000 US $ would be an Olympus E30 or a Pentax K20d, merely based on specs. The rest of the bunch are not up there, yet, at that price point.
Were you wanting any further explanation, please do contact me [if you want so, obviously].
DaveBinM April 8, 2009 11:22 PM PDT Any real photographer knows that you need a flash for certain things. If you don’t use a flash at least some of the time, that’s silly, not to mention that sometimes flashes are essential for some outdoor shots.
One of the things not to forget is you can get an OM adapter ring for the Olympus cameras to use OM lenses on their new dSLRs, and as an OM10 owner, I appreciate this accessory a lot, and as a side note, all of Canon’s EOS cameras, even going back to film, can use the same lenses, at least according to a professional photographer friend of mine.
I’ve decided I’m going to cut “the cable”. However, after that, I don’t completely understand how I’m going to wire my system to receive over-the-air standard def programming as well as over-the-air high-def programming. Can I have one antenna for both? Or do I need two separate antennas? I have three Mitsubishi DLP HDTV’s, the oldest is from 2004, not sure if I need a converter box or not. Any help appreciated. Perhaps others might be interested. Thanks.
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